I think I used a speed square, and wedged it in one of the fins, and then the frame. I got the idea from a guy on here

 

Try putting a 2x4 or something against the clutch fins and the RZR frame to hold the clutch from spinning. Believe it or not you're probably pretty close to 55# already.

 

If you have a primary clutch removal tool use it to wedge it between the frame and fins of the secondary clutch.

 

Thanks guys, after posting i ended up grabbing the primary holding tool and wedged it into the fins. It still took two people. What a pain in the ass.

 

What are we working on here? On my app this is in just a generic topic and there are lots of 2016 models to choose from. I was freaking just a little because on the xpt it's only 40 ftlbs. Had to do some fact checking to make sure I had done mine and my buddies correctly and I did. At 40 ftlbs I was able to stare very sternly at the clutch and torque it down with fear.
Ok actually I was able to hold it with one hand and torque it with the other but that doesn't sound very cool.

 

I have done my share of clutches and in 14 years of doing it never torqued one except in one of our install videos. I use a 18v impact and know when to quit

Seems more people get in trouble and mess things up torquing clutch bolts

 

That's what I do too. I hate to over think things.

 

In all the years of snowmobiling and with these RZR's I never have either. It's just everything I've read about this Team BOSS secondary (not sure if the '16 was the only one with this) makes it really important to torque that bolt to 55 ft/lbs.

 

That is what Dalton tells me too

 

Used a strainer wrench to hold the clutch

 

put your torque wrench where it sets on the bottom floor skid plate and turn the secondary that always. works for me.