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Discussion Starter #1
Recently I added a Holz 46mm intake and Throttle body.
I drove it at Sandlake and was pleased with the result, when doing the install I used the original airbox with an 09 boot with bellows that I upgraded to some time back.
To have it fit what seemed correctly the boot was rotated 180 degree so the IAT was at the bottom, no worries it fit good and ran fine.
Now I have decided to add an UMP to the mix, however it does not seem to line up correctly with the Throttle body attached are some pictures to illustrate the situation.
Two views of the Holz intake and TB mounted as used with the original airbox.


The UMP mount two views.


Sliding the UMP to the TB there is an elevation change that does not look right.

With the UMP mounted to the TB there is a gap to the trans mount.


The filter set on the mount it is at a slant towards the cap end.

Here with the intake hose on it does not rise much above the bed rails, so
I moved the tube up a bit

This does not look right, the first time I mounted it the connector between the TB and air filter canister pulled off so I moved the connector a bit out from the air canister to fir better.

Have other people had this experience doing the install?
Advice suggestions and comments are welcome
 

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I had the same problem. It's the billet intake piece that's causing the problem. If you want to Jimmy rig it you can put a spacer under the ump canister like a piece of 2x4 or replace the billet intake w/ the stocker.
 

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King of crash!
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getting back on track...kev pm crazy watson i belive he or milos ran into this also they might have your answer to making it work.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Thanks for the input, I figured it was the intake causing the issue.:rollfinger:
I think a spacer under the filter can is the way to go.
The silicone boot looks interesting too. I want to have some "power ups"
going for me for going to Glamis!:)
 

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Discussion Starter #11
JC8..........WTF?...I take a week off and you go over 14,000 posts!
:hijacked:.....Sorry!
:rofl3::rofl3::rofl3::popcorn::popcorn::ride::ride:

lol ya missed it.

so great white hunter get anything besides a hangover?
I saw a post a 14001 was it just yesterday? quite the prolific HOE!

Another question on the UMP has/does anyone run a prefilter on the paper filter itself, or would that effect the swirl action inside the can?
I think I will drill a couple holes in the lid and put bolts from the inside and double nut them on the outside for handles to remove the lid also.
 

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Kev,

Like the IDEA about the Handle. That lid is a bugger to get off at times.

Do you think the spacer idea will affect the performance of the filter can since originally it was pointed downward toward the lid?
If anyone else has this filter, how about some comments?
Bart


Thanks for the input, I figured it was the intake causing the issue.:rollfinger:
I think a spacer under the filter can is the way to go.
The silicone boot looks interesting too. I want to have some "power ups"
going for me for going to Glamis!:)
 

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sv1000 soon
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[/IMG]cut and reweld add 2" its the best way when u space it up the rubber falls out on a good dezert or track ride or the clamps pop.. used belts ,rubber, used a piece of my old tempur pedic bed but the only down fall is its right on my rain gaurd ..
 

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Here's my solution on using the HOLZ billet intake and bored throttlebody.

The stock rubber intake has an approximate 33 degree bend in it - As Illustrated by Cliff's picture.

The HOLZ billet intake has an approximate 10 degree bend - And hence the difficulty ALL face with adapting downstream of the intake parts/pieces.

The Pic .......



Cut in half on a band saw - Then cut a wedge out and machine till one has a mirror immage of the stock intake - And weld back together.

And for those with the Aerocharger Turbo System -- The throttlebody adapter is a custom machined piece done by Brad at Aerocharger - Again at 46mm.

:ride:
 

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Kev,

BETTER LATE than NEVER:shhh:

Totally forgot about your original post until I started the writeup on the Engine Rebuild.

Anyway, I had the same problem and here are the pictures showing you what I fabbed up to fix the problem. Simple, Inexpensive and HOMEMADE.

Now I will admit Sparky, by far has the purtiest, fancy solution :rofl3:, but I didn't know anyone with a bandsaw and welder:sad:

Bart

NO RAGGING bout the duck tape, was in the process of making some handles to remove the lid 



Just used the original air box bracket and made 4 legs out of Aluminum Angle material.









This allowed a very straight connection to the throttle body as well as allowing me to drop the lid end slightly to match what the original angle of the bracket was.

 
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