[Mattman06]

You know you're staring to ring some power out of your motor when you have to turn your airbox into Swiss cheese to keep the j-pipe from collapsing. On a hard pull I'd get about 2 seconds of hard acceleration then it would cut back to about half power. Put the data logger on and made a recording. It would get to about 21psi then suddenly drop to 10. Pulse width, throttle position weren't chopping back. Disconnected the hose from the boost controller to the waste gate. Didn't help. Put my camera on the firewall and calmed the wastegsye arm on the turbo. Sure enough, it would Crack about 1/2" then close backup right when the boost drop happened. Double checked my Crack pressure. Was still 9psi.

 

[Mattman06]

Cranked up the crackpressure to 11psi just to see what happened. Very small change. I was about to go back to the shop and I reached back and took the airbox cover off. Made a hard pass and everything was good. Finally some progress. Deleted the pre-filter tube and made another pass. No help. Pulled the air filter, put the cover back on made a pass. Same problem. Drilled some 1 1/2" holes in my box and problem solved. Guess the stroker kit put the cfm requirement over the top for the box flow.

 

[Mattman06]

Of course, if you trail ride or see any mud or water this is a no no, so don't do it to your machine.

 

[Mattman06]

Yes. I did a pass with no air filter and it collapsed. It's in the initial description.

 

[Mattman06]

It's a 2020. No. I deleted the snorkel crap and piping.

 

[Mattman06]

I do all the work on mine. Aren't too many people I would trust to do anything on it.

 

[Mattman06]

More surface area should equal more flow. As far as better, that's one of those debates that if you ask 5 people you'll get 5 different filters that are "better". S&B makes good stuff. All I put on my diesel customers trucks if they want to get rid of the stock air box. I like to pull the filter after a really dusty day and check for any signs of silt in the j-tube. Haven't seen anything so far.