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Discussion Starter #1
Yes I know this subject is hit hard all the time, but when pulling the trigger on this I want to get the latest information and not something that was released years ago so please forgive the common subject.

2019 xp41k. 32" tires. Ace gear reduction that brings it back to stock ratio to the ground. Still....I'm only getting 7500rpm under load(full RPM no load), reduced top end, and sluggish or slightly slipping belt getting up to speed. Nearly all of my riding is trails between 3k-4k foot elevation and speeds averaging about 30mph up to 50mph on long straights and some technical rock stuff thrown in for good measure.

I think the increased unsprung weight still has quite and impact in acceleration, so I do want to try a clutch kit. Advice appreciated....links even more so. Thanks!
 

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I have a Dalton clutch kit in my 2019 xp4 1000. This has to be the easiest kit to adjust on the planet. I think the only place to get one is Hunterworks. Don't expect to get much support from them. They are nearly impossible to get through to but, the instruction are really good, the kit is easy to install and ease of adjustment is second to none. Todd does have some really good videos that really help with the install. There are a couple tools you will need (primary clutch puller and spring compressor) which you can get from hunterworks also. They have some of the best IMHO. All toll it will set you back about $600 for the kit and tools.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. I ordered an SLP kit to arrive next week. I actually had spoken to hunterworks and he did not think I needed a clutch due to gear reduction. SLP said that even with gear reduction the extra weight of the larger tires would warrant a clutch kit. We shall see
 

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I have the same gear reduction and only running 30's and find that the clutch kit helps with that as well and I plan on going to 32 once these 30s are worn out...
 

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Discussion Starter #7
@Oceanjake any updates on the SLP kit , did you get the power pucks as well?
I replaced the square pucks and did the update. I had to install all 7 weights to keep the car off the rev limiter. Shifted out at 8600 still. Called SLP and ordered projected tip Allen weights to get another gram in each. Dropped it to 8500. There is now noticeable grab on deceleration and it’s useful...I really like it. But it feels a lot like a race kit to me where it doesn’t really bite until high rpm. I actually thought the spider nut had backed off or something so I took that whole thing apart and reassembled so now I’m positive it’s correct. I made one more call to SLP and expressed I’d like more “midrange”, and they said that due to my gear reduction my experience made sense. I have in my hands a primary spring from them now that’s a bit lighter. I will install tomorrow along with some rhino axles. I expect my RPM’s will drop a bit too much and I can pull some weights back out, hopefully with some more guts in the 7k range up through 8400. We shall see. It’s fun to get hands on and learn what is happening when you mash the pedal.

I do really like this kit, especially that I can fine tune the weight setup without pulling the clutch. It’s doing great, I’m just finessing it.
 

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Thanks keep us posted ...so you do have the Power Pucks or not? What base weight did you start with ?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Not sure what “power pucks” you guys are talking about on the turbo trans. The 1000 trans has square pucks on the secondary that I replaced with rollers from SLP, along with both springs and the helix. I dropped the lighter spring in today and it is PERFECT. The car begins to move just off idle. I get my desired 8400 rpms. And everywhere in between if I blip the throttle the car lurches forward. With the heavier spring the power was there but you had to wind it up to get it. The difference with the .yellow/white spring versus the yellow/red spring is like comparing the power and of a 2 stroke bike to a 4 stroke.
Anyhow, very happy now. It just took some
Fine tuning to find the formula for 32” tires and gear reduction.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Just looked up power pucks. Yeah those are for turbos and I don’t have them. Curious why they would be a bad thing on turbos. What is the downside?
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Can the primary spring be changed without removing the whole primary assembly ?
You can muscle the primary spring swap by hand on the 1000, but at that point it would only take minutes more to pull it, inspect it, and clean it thoroughly. On a trail I suppose it could be done.
 

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Ok, was asking because of that center Nut being on so tight, just wanted to eliminate the chance of that causing damage from attempting to remove.
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Ok, was asking because of that center Nut being on so tight, just wanted to eliminate the chance of that causing damage from attempting to remove.
I’m no pro, as this was my first install although I’ve pulled the primary half a dozen times. But the one bolt holding the primary in is only 100ft lbs. To do a clutch kit you don’t have to disassemble the spider assembly, which is the one that is torqued to 300ft lbs and requires heat to remove. You only need to pull those 6 bolts to access the spring. The weights can be pulled right out the side. It’s feasible to do the whole thing in the car but so much easier to do it on a bench.
 
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