Joined
·
580 Posts
BEFORE- ‘17 XPT buggy. 2seater transmission. 32” roctane x2 Stock gearing. AA high load clutch kit. ‘19 XPT4 32” roctane x2’s stock gearing and AA high load clutch kit. Had performance helix before high load but switched to try and keep from eating belts. Both units ended up eating belts no matter the helix.
IN NO WAY ARE WE BASHING MIKE OR AA IN THIS POST. He’sbeen great to work with solving a couple turbo problems we’ve had and we will continue to buy products from him and his company. Just throwing this out there for others fighting their clutching like we have.
for a year we’ve been playing with weights per AA with no luck. On stage3 tune we fought to keep rpms within the acceptable ranges. Had to go all out with 4/4/4/1 weights to get rpms calmed down. Still eating belts breakfast lunch and dinner.
So we installed the 53% reduction in both units as we switched to 35” roxxzillas know the belt situation wouldn’t get any better and if you’re running that size and weight of tire you need the reduction. Put performance helix instead of high load since the reduction takes care of that and went 4/3/2 as a starting point. Boom. Test drove and rpm jumping all over place. Added weight rpm jumping all over the place.
spent a week studying up on the black magic of clutch tuning. Talked to different companies and they all only wanted to sell me something except Todd at hunter works. He explained how it all works and didn’t try to sell me anything. Thank you sir for the info and education.
so thinking of all I’ve learned went back to assess our situation. Led me to think the secondary spring is too soft. Replaced AA purple spring which i do believe is 150/265 with a venom 160/200 in her buggy. AA doesn’t tell you their spring rates or angles so it’s an educated guess. I could be wrong. Test drove and FINALLY it held steady at 8200 rpm with 4/4/4 in the flyweights. Replaced xpt4 secondary spring with venom 185/245 as it was eating belts more I assume from being heavier than hers.
so for our crawling/difficult trail riding went with this setup I believe is going to give us most grip. if anyone sees a problem with this please tell me and show me the way.
Both have oem primary spring AA flyweights set at 4/4/4.
hers being lighter has 55* straight aa performance helix with the spring listed above.
mine has oem 53-49 progressive oem helix (aa 55 performance helix will be ordered) with venom 185/245 secondary spring.
Went with oem primary spring so engagement grabs to belt with a little more umph and the heavy flyweights to grip the belt hard.
Tip weight also affects heal weight so ends up or engagement comes in much smoother than before around 1800rpm. Setup pulls hard with no belt slip yet. Both setups considerably cooler to touch sheaves after riding than before. The xpt4 being even cooler to the touch than her buggy.
We’ve installed after reduction a Razorback belt temp gauge from @craigstumph. He was 40$ cheaper than anywhere else. So now we can keep an eye on temps as we further test this setup out on the rocks.
I guess throughout this I’m thinking most clutch kits are very similar and need to be fine tuned for your specific riding. What works for us may not work for you and vice versa.
if you aren’t happy with your setup don’t get rid of it to buy another. You may just need to fine tune it to what you want it to do.
please add info if I’m incorrect or add any other info as clutching companies seem to like to keep their secrets
IN NO WAY ARE WE BASHING MIKE OR AA IN THIS POST. He’sbeen great to work with solving a couple turbo problems we’ve had and we will continue to buy products from him and his company. Just throwing this out there for others fighting their clutching like we have.
for a year we’ve been playing with weights per AA with no luck. On stage3 tune we fought to keep rpms within the acceptable ranges. Had to go all out with 4/4/4/1 weights to get rpms calmed down. Still eating belts breakfast lunch and dinner.
So we installed the 53% reduction in both units as we switched to 35” roxxzillas know the belt situation wouldn’t get any better and if you’re running that size and weight of tire you need the reduction. Put performance helix instead of high load since the reduction takes care of that and went 4/3/2 as a starting point. Boom. Test drove and rpm jumping all over place. Added weight rpm jumping all over the place.
spent a week studying up on the black magic of clutch tuning. Talked to different companies and they all only wanted to sell me something except Todd at hunter works. He explained how it all works and didn’t try to sell me anything. Thank you sir for the info and education.
so thinking of all I’ve learned went back to assess our situation. Led me to think the secondary spring is too soft. Replaced AA purple spring which i do believe is 150/265 with a venom 160/200 in her buggy. AA doesn’t tell you their spring rates or angles so it’s an educated guess. I could be wrong. Test drove and FINALLY it held steady at 8200 rpm with 4/4/4 in the flyweights. Replaced xpt4 secondary spring with venom 185/245 as it was eating belts more I assume from being heavier than hers.
so for our crawling/difficult trail riding went with this setup I believe is going to give us most grip. if anyone sees a problem with this please tell me and show me the way.
Both have oem primary spring AA flyweights set at 4/4/4.
hers being lighter has 55* straight aa performance helix with the spring listed above.
mine has oem 53-49 progressive oem helix (aa 55 performance helix will be ordered) with venom 185/245 secondary spring.
Went with oem primary spring so engagement grabs to belt with a little more umph and the heavy flyweights to grip the belt hard.
Tip weight also affects heal weight so ends up or engagement comes in much smoother than before around 1800rpm. Setup pulls hard with no belt slip yet. Both setups considerably cooler to touch sheaves after riding than before. The xpt4 being even cooler to the touch than her buggy.
We’ve installed after reduction a Razorback belt temp gauge from @craigstumph. He was 40$ cheaper than anywhere else. So now we can keep an eye on temps as we further test this setup out on the rocks.
I guess throughout this I’m thinking most clutch kits are very similar and need to be fine tuned for your specific riding. What works for us may not work for you and vice versa.
if you aren’t happy with your setup don’t get rid of it to buy another. You may just need to fine tune it to what you want it to do.
please add info if I’m incorrect or add any other info as clutching companies seem to like to keep their secrets