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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
I recently had rough running issues and narrowed it down to the fuel pump, it was putting out only 25 psi and immediately losing pressure when the pump was shut off.

I pulled the pump assembly, and then pulled the pump itself out and bench tested it. It tested at 58-60 psi. re-assembled it, and what I could see is that the pump itself was pushing down inside the assembly, causing the pump outlet to slip part way out of the green O ring in the cage. At the bottom of the cage is the foam insulator - it was pretty squished but didn't look out of place.

Anyway, the 'fix' was to shim (with 3 layers of inner tube cut in to discs) the bottom of the pump in the cage so that it can't slip down and out of the O ring. (I didn't take pics, so had to grab this one off the internet).

Has anyone come across an issue like this before? FWIW, it now works perfectly. Though I wonder how long the rubber will last in there and whether I am missing a part somewhere.........

671125
 

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I have a 2017 XP 1000 with 4800 miles. Last week while riding it lost power as if running on one cylinder or not getting enough fuel. When I stopped it would die. Check engine light came on with code 520344 17 code. After finding a thread on the little green O ring, I took the pump apart and found the o ring sitting loosely in place. I looked around for the same size o ring but even though diameter was the same, all I found were thinner. Anyway I reinstalled the old O ring which shrunk after it dried along with another o ring of the smaller thickness. I then reinstalled the pump and checked the pressure at about 60 psi. ($25 fuel pressure/injection kit from Harbor freight). Test rode it for about 5 miles and it ran normal and the check engine light went out. By the way re-build kits are available for about $70. Polaris here did not sell the washer or the filter which I wanted to replace. They did offer a re-build kit for $404.
 

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Anyway I reinstalled the old O ring which shrunk after it dried along with another o ring of the smaller thickness.
This might be asking for trouble. Better to just buy the rebuild kit
 

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I have a 2017 XP 1000 with 4800 miles. Last week while riding it lost power as if running on one cylinder or not getting enough fuel. When I stopped it would die. Check engine light came on with code 520344 17 code. After finding a thread on the little green O ring, I took the pump apart and found the o ring sitting loosely in place. I looked around for the same size o ring but even though diameter was the same, all I found were thinner. Anyway I reinstalled the old O ring which shrunk after it dried along with another o ring of the smaller thickness. I then reinstalled the pump and checked the pressure at about 60 psi. ($25 fuel pressure/injection kit from Harbor freight). Test rode it for about 5 miles and it ran normal and the check engine light went out. By the way re-build kits are available for about $70. Polaris here did not sell the washer or the filter which I wanted to replace. They did offer a re-build kit for $404.

This is why I will never buy another Polaris. Built cheap and designed to get you to buy part. I'm over it. I know a lot of people will disagree with me but that's alright. Just try to buy a u-joint, o-ring, slip yoke, fuel pump. Look at the way these stupid inside axle joint are made. Designed to wear out. No more for this old boy. I'm over it. Time to move on. THAT'S ALL I'VE GOT TO SAY ABOUT THAT.
 

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I recently had rough running issues and narrowed it down to the fuel pump, it was putting out only 25 psi and immediately losing pressure when the pump was shut off.

I pulled the pump assembly, and then pulled the pump itself out and bench tested it. It tested at 58-60 psi. re-assembled it, and what I could see is that the pump itself was pushing down inside the assembly, causing the pump outlet to slip part way out of the green O ring in the cage. At the bottom of the cage is the foam insulator - it was pretty squished but didn't look out of place.

Anyway, the 'fix' was to shim (with 3 layers of inner tube cut in to discs) the bottom of the pump in the cage so that it can't slip down and out of the O ring. (I didn't take pics, so had to grab this one off the internet).

Has anyone come across an issue like this before? FWIW, it now works perfectly. Though I wonder how long the rubber will last in there and whether I am missing a part somewhere.........

View attachment 671125
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
There’s supposed to be a black plastic spacer that goes on the pump to keep it pushed up and sealed against the Oring and top of the housing.
To confirm, the insulator has collapsed. It's pretty gooey actually.
There is no need for a rebuild kit, there is nothing wrong with the pump; just the insulator, and most of the rebuild kits don't even include a new insulator.

After sitting for a week, I disassembled again and the butyl inner tube pieces have deteriorated a little (easy to tear), so I'm now using discs cut from a plastic oil bottle instead.

I have also ordered a replacement insulator, but as all it seems to do is reduce pump noise transmitted through the wall of the tank, I'm inclined to stick with the plastic which I know cannot collapse again.

Anyway, if anyone reading this in the future experiences a collapsed insulator, I'd like to know about it!
671548
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Why can’t a 60psi inline fuel pump be used. Just asking


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Probably no reason why not. Though in tank pumps are generally regarded as better (cooling from the fuel etc) although more difficult to work on. This one has the built in pressure regulator etc.
 

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To confirm, the insulator has collapsed. It's pretty gooey actually.
There is no need for a rebuild kit, there is nothing wrong with the pump; just the insulator, and most of the rebuild kits don't even include a new insulator.

After sitting for a week, I disassembled again and the butyl inner tube pieces have deteriorated a little (easy to tear), so I'm now using discs cut from a plastic oil bottle instead.

I have also ordered a replacement insulator, but as all it seems to do is reduce pump noise transmitted through the wall of the tank, I'm inclined to stick with the plastic which I know cannot collapse again.

Anyway, if anyone reading this in the future experiences a collapsed insulator, I'd like to know about it! View attachment 671548
 

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To confirm, the insulator has collapsed. It's pretty gooey actually.
There is no need for a rebuild kit, there is nothing wrong with the pump; just the insulator, and most of the rebuild kits don't even include a new insulator.

After sitting for a week, I disassembled again and the butyl inner tube pieces have deteriorated a little (easy to tear), so I'm now using discs cut from a plastic oil bottle instead.

I have also ordered a replacement insulator, but as all it seems to do is reduce pump noise transmitted through the wall of the tank, I'm inclined to stick with the plastic which I know cannot collapse again.

Anyway, if anyone reading this in the future experiences a collapsed insulator, I'd like to know about it! View attachment 671548
Where did you find the replacement insulator?
 

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Mine has done the same exact thing. I made shims out of plastic also. I’m sure most just replace everything when the pumps are not bad.



QUOTE="wired2, post: 6099284, member: 81523"]
To confirm, the insulator has collapsed. It's pretty gooey actually.
There is no need for a rebuild kit, there is nothing wrong with the pump; just the insulator, and most of the rebuild kits don't even include a new insulator.

After sitting for a week, I disassembled again and the butyl inner tube pieces have deteriorated a little (easy to tear), so I'm now using discs cut from a plastic oil bottle instead.

I have also ordered a replacement insulator, but as all it seems to do is reduce pump noise transmitted through the wall of the tank, I'm inclined to stick with the plastic which I know cannot collapse again.

Anyway, if anyone reading this in the future experiences a collapsed insulator, I'd like to know about it! View attachment 671548
[/QUOTE]
 

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GOOGLE FUEL PUMP RUBBER ISOLATOR FOR POLARIS RZR


View attachment 681786
I’m about 99% certain you pinpointed the problem with the isolator. I had the same issues. This is a little bit of a long read so brace for it.

After I initially had reduced power and “lean” engine code in my 2018 XP4 1000, I did some research and decided to buy the Allballs Racing rebuild kit. I received the kit and got to work.

When I was disassembling the original fuel pump, I noticed that the small green o-ring wasn’t seated properly, halfway out. I figured that this had something to do with the problem but still hadn’t figured out what was going on.

I installed the rebuild kit, taking care to make sure it was done right. I turned on the machine and it sounded perfect. I have to admit, it made me pretty happy. Skeptical that it was fixed, I went out for a little ride.

After about 15 minutes of riding, I was back to the same problem after laying on the accelerator on a desert trail here in Tucson. Crushed, I limped my 2018 XP4 1000 back to my garage. I was on a mission to find the problem.

With the o-ring being my #1 suspect, I again pulled the pump out. I immediately noticed that the allballs racing brown o-ring was visible. I pushed the pump motor back into the housing, reseating the o-ring and reinstalled it. The machine again started and idled like a champ.

I took it out for another spin and again ran amazing. After about 5 minutes of riding, my RZR again lost most of it’s power and the engine light came back on. At this point, I was 100% sure I knew what the problem was. THE ISOLATOR not holding the pump in place. Like other guys have mentioned, I noticed my isolator was also extremely mushy. When I pulled the pump out for the 3rd time, I noticed the the pump was again dislodged from the plastic housing. At this point, I realized that the isolator also holds the pump in place. Since mine had failed, becoming very mushy, it no longer had enough rigidity to keep the pump secured in place. This brings me to my next point; the Allballs Racing rebuild kit DOES NOT include a new isolator.
My next step is to fashion a spacer to add more pressure to the pump mechanism.

Both Allballs Racing and Polaris need to make this right. It’s long overdue. I’m sure there are thousands of people that have encountered the same problem.

As a consumer, it makes me lose confidence in Polaris knowing that their engineers must know about the defective isolator and them not doing anything about it.
Please make it right POLARIS.
Allballs Racing- it’s time to add a proper isolator to your rebuild kit. The parts you provide do not fix the problem.
 

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I have two 900 machines and experienced the same thing. Bought an Allballs pump for both and everything was good for a short while. I also recognized the "mushy" isolater as the culprit. I used some gasket material cut into discs(3 layers) to fit below the mush and all is well!
 

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I’m about 99% certain you pinpointed the problem with the isolator. I had the same issues. This is a little bit of a long read so brace for it.

After I initially had reduced power and “lean” engine code in my 2018 XP4 1000, I did some research and decided to buy the Allballs Racing rebuild kit. I received the kit and got to work.

When I was disassembling the original fuel pump, I noticed that the small green o-ring wasn’t seated properly, halfway out. I figured that this had something to do with the problem but still hadn’t figured out what was going on.

I installed the rebuild kit, taking care to make sure it was done right. I turned on the machine and it sounded perfect. I have to admit, it made me pretty happy. Skeptical that it was fixed, I went out for a little ride.

After about 15 minutes of riding, I was back to the same problem after laying on the accelerator on a desert trail here in Tucson. Crushed, I limped my 2018 XP4 1000 back to my garage. I was on a mission to find the problem.

With the o-ring being my #1 suspect, I again pulled the pump out. I immediately noticed that the allballs racing brown o-ring was visible. I pushed the pump motor back into the housing, reseating the o-ring and reinstalled it. The machine again started and idled like a champ.

I took it out for another spin and again ran amazing. After about 5 minutes of riding, my RZR again lost most of it’s power and the engine light came back on. At this point, I was 100% sure I knew what the problem was. THE ISOLATOR not holding the pump in place. Like other guys have mentioned, I noticed my isolator was also extremely mushy. When I pulled the pump out for the 3rd time, I noticed the the pump was again dislodged from the plastic housing. At this point, I realized that the isolator also holds the pump in place. Since mine had failed, becoming very mushy, it no longer had enough rigidity to keep the pump secured in place. This brings me to my next point; the Allballs Racing rebuild kit DOES NOT include a new isolator.
My next step is to fashion a spacer to add more pressure to the pump mechanism.

Both Allballs Racing and Polaris need to make this right. It’s long overdue. I’m sure there are thousands of people that have encountered the same problem.

As a consumer, it makes me lose confidence in Polaris knowing that their engineers must know about the defective isolator and them not doing anything about it.
Please make it right POLARIS.
Allballs Racing- it’s time to add a proper isolator to your rebuild kit. The parts you provide do not fix the problem.
I'm on my third pump now. Mine would start making a high pitched squeel which made me nervous. I wonder if it's because of the isolator?.
 

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I'm on my third pump now. Mine would start making a high pitched squeel which made me nervous. I wonder if it's because of the isolator?.
It’s possibly related. An easy way to know is by pulling your fuel pump out checking to see if the o-ring is visible. I added a picture of what it looks like when not properly seated. Notice that you can see a portion of the o-ring. If you can push the pump back into place (up) then you have slop caused by the insulator too.
Hood Gas Gadget Cable Electric blue
 
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