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'09 Nuclear Sunset Orange
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480 Posts
Discussion Starter · #1 · (Edited)
FS: '09 RZR LE Rear diff. 106 miles. Pics inside.[SOLD]

[SOLD]

I am doing a article on my site about how I did the diff swap and whats needed.
http://brrcm.com/brrc/rzr-turf-saver.html

Ok, my turf saver rear is in and working, so dont need this anymore.
106 miles on it. Never submerged or abused.

$1078 at Babbits. Im starting at $750 + shipping UPS ground to you.
Paypal ready and Im not asking for their fee coverage.

If you need feedback, I have over 700+ on Ebay.



 

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'09 Nuclear Sunset Orange
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480 Posts
Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Well my first impressions is WOW. Its like I have power steering now.
It really made the front feel lighter and much easier to turn the steering wheel.

No longer hear the tire chewing when your on pavement too.
 

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What did it take to make the change? Do you have an S ? From another thread it took a different axle on one side and only worked on the S model.
 

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'09 Nuclear Sunset Orange
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480 Posts
Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Both Scooty and me have regular LE models. Not the "S".

Yea, you buy the intl. diff and a right intl. "S" axle, and a set of boot clamps. Babbits is the place to get them from due to prices. Believe it or not this rear diff is actually cheaper than the stock diff we have now.

Get the axle shortened.

Now Scooty and I have yet to work out the electrics but he is sending me the 3 way switch and the relay for me to try.

Worse case, I will buy a PWM solenoid driver if the ECU dont workout and that way it will be a simple click of the switch.

I have pics of my install.
 

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A heads up on the switch. I have a 2007 500X2 and it had the turf mode which quit working. The switch just signals the ECU. The ECU controls the solenoid. I went by the dealer to check the wiring diagram and found this out. Also it applies 12 volts to engage the solenoid and then uses a lower voltage (not specified) to hold it engaged. I assume the lower voltage keeps the solenoid from burning out like mine apparently has. Mine doesn't show open on a ohm meter, but it has 58 ohms resistance instead of the 5.8 ohms the manual says it should be. I'm still deciding if it's worth the $168.00 to replace it. If it was on the RZR I would. The X2 isn't ridden much.

You could probably use a 3 pole sequential switch where the first ON position has a resistor (value and wattage to be determined) and the 2nd ON position would be direct. Toggle all the way up to pull in the solenoid and then back to the middle position to hold it in. At $168.00 ea., you don't want to be burning up the solenoid. If you can find a dealer that will let you browse the shop manual for an X2 or Ranger, it may give you some ideas. I originally thought the handlebar switch did all the work.

I would like to see the pictures. Can you post them online with a link? Does the shorter axle increase CV bind? What is a PWM solenoid driver?
 

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'09 Nuclear Sunset Orange
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480 Posts
Discussion Starter · #7 ·
PWM pulse width modulation. Thats what your ECM uses to keep from burning out the solenoid. It sends a 12v pulse to kick it, then goes to PWM to hold it.

You can buy these boards fairly cheap. I emailed a place to see what they recommend for this set up if my ECU want work. Im thinking it may be missing the right program.

I dont see any binding with the rzr wheels off the ground.
So thats maxed out. Could be a issue if you added a lift kit.
 

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Re: FS: '09 RZR LE Rear diff. 106 miles. Pics inside.[SOLD]

when you do a convertion on a 2011 rzrs, do i need to buy a new axle and shorten it or will it be the correct lenght ?, or do you just shorten the stock axle?
 
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