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Front rotor

1.1K views 16 replies 10 participants last post by  tote  
#1 ·
Any idea how to get the front rotor off?
nut is of and caliper is off
 
#2 ·
You may have to tap on the axle end ( I use a dead blow hammer) Sometime rust and crap can get into the splines and it won't slid off like it should.
You should have enough play in the CV's to allow backlash from the hammer blow.

Or put the castle nut on a few turns to protect the threads and smack it there.
 
#3 ·
Well, not knowing what machine, year or anything else, the best I can do is tell ya to pull the hub..

I've heard from more than a few, that Polaris started using green loctite retaining compound on the splines that go into the hub and the diff. Some have reported having to apply heat and getting it off that way..

Here's some threads on that


Hope this helps..
 
#4 ·
Well, not knowing what machine, year or anything else, the best I can do is tell ya to pull the hub..

I've heard from more than a few, that Polaris started using green loctite retaining compound on the splines that go into the hub and the diff. Some have reported having to apply heat and getting it off that way..

Here's some threads on that


Hope this helps..
I have found Green Loctite on both rear's but haven't had any with it on the front.
 
#6 ·
Thx men but the shaft moves in the splines easily. So it not stuck on the splines. I did not try the left side as of yet. I’m stumped . I use a pry bar against the stud backs, dead blow… nada. Rotor spins easily. Very strange. I thought splines were stuck too, till I grabbed the shaft and it moved in and out. WTH!
 
#7 · (Edited)
Then just go to O'Rilley or Auto zone, and rent their 3 jaw puller. I attach the puller on the tangs that make up the boss's for the lug bolts. Run the center threaded pin into the dimple on your axle.

It should come off pretty easy. A lot of times the races are stuck well on the O.D. of the rotor protruding shaft.

Should work for ya- That's how I get the Pro Xp's rear rotor off and it has mega Green Loctite from mother Polaris.
 
#8 ·
A puller pushing on the axle won’t work if the axle splines aren’t the problem. Sounds like the hub is rusted to the inner bearing race.
I’d take the whole carrier off the car and press it out.

be sure to replace that bearing.

if you don’t own a press you now have a couple reasons to buy one.
 
#10 ·
I replaced the front bearings a month ago and I had to tap the axel and the using a block of wood "gently" tsp the back of the rotor to loosen it. I did make sure to coat the gun with a generous amount of anti seize to make removing the hub next time a little easier.
 
#12 ·
You guys aren't making me happy, when I pull the trans out of the RS1, I'm changing all 4 axles from stock to Rhino 2.0 in the hopes they will be stronger than stock... Not looking forward to finding the dreaded green slime retaining compound..

This is what I THINK they are putting on at the factory

Not a single word on how to get it to release, 3770.0 pounds of shear strength.. WTF... I'm SO pleased to find out about this here in the forum, as opposed to sitting on the side of a trail somewhere trying to replace a busted axle..
 
#13 ·
All my other rides from never had any green Loctite on the axle splines, not until 20220- and now on my 2025 Pro xp and it was both rear only- The front's pull off by had. This was with 6 miles on my 2025.

The 3 jaw puller woks fine and a 1/2 ratchet with no cheater on it pulls the rotor off pretty easy.

It's just a mess using a pick to clean each spline, and the splines in the rotor. and I mean clean or it won't slide on like butter as it should.

Don't forget to coat the spline when going back together.. I used antiseize and have on every machine I have had to work on with no ill effects when having to remove- others have their opinions on what to use- but at least use something.