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rzrs24
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775 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
i bent my frame in the front, right where the gusset is. Im surprised it bent, i was trying to pop over a lip, wasnt hitting that hard. I pulled it back out, thinking of welding thicker gussets in the place of the stock. what all is out there to stiffen the front?
 

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noob
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All Terrain Research makes these things called "bones" which are supposed to help a lot. I think Thunderhawk also makes something similar.
 

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Jack Daniels please..
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X2 on Thunderhawk Performance
 

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i bent my frame in the front, right where the gusset is. Im surprised it bent, i was trying to pop over a lip, wasnt hitting that hard. I pulled it back out, thinking of welding thicker gussets in the place of the stock. what all is out there to stiffen the front?
Any chance you have a picture of that?

I installed the reinforcement tubes from UTV Inc. both front and rear. I want to see if they would have helped in your case. :)
 

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rzrs24
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775 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
was it off the upper a arm / radiator area ?
it was bent right behind the lower a-arm on the passenger side. i know it is going to be even weaker now. so i would do something. just want to check before i add another gusset.
 

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I'd definitely recommend the reinforcement tubes from UTV Inc. in that case.

It's a thick walled tubing precisely the right diameter to slide inside that tube of the frame.

Can't beat the price IMHO. :)
 

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noob
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I installed the reinforcement tubes from UTV Inc. both front and rear. I want to see if they would have helped in your case. :)

Do those weld in?
 

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You can weld them if you like or you can drill a small hole and pin it with a screw (rear ones will have this as a matter of course with the brake line strap placement)...or if you are lazy like me you can slap some JB Weld on it and slam it into the tube.

Mine have held up just great and I do not take it easy on it. In fact, I let a son of a friend drive the other day and I thought he was going to do exactly what happened to the OP....but it held up fine.
 

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rzrs24
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775 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
i guess its the tubes, i think i also add a stiffer gusset. thanks for the advice. im surprised this hasnt happened to more people besides me.
 

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The Thunder hawk version that I installed have an expansion screw that you turn a bolt head to expand the end of the reinforcement tube and that keeps them in place, no welding, no drilling , screws or JB weld.
 

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The Thunder hawk version that I installed have an expansion screw that you turn a bolt head to expand the end of the reinforcement tube and that keeps them in place, no welding, no drilling , screws or JB weld.
Did you do the front and rear? "cause I can't see how you can do the rear without removing the brake line clamps which are screwed into the lower tubes...the screw penetrates the tube, preventing you from sliding the reinforcement tube in. Then of course, you have to replace the clamps (which requires drilling)

Then there's the difference of about 130 bucks more for the Thunderhawk...am I missing something? :rollfinger:

Sometimes keeping it simple saves a few bucks IMO. :)
 

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Vendor
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740 Posts
The Thunderhawk frame tubes are pre-drilled for the brake line retaining bolt, so there's no drilling required.

The difference in cost between the Thunderhawk tubes and any of the weld-in tubes is the pre-drilled brake hole, plus the machining and Expand-Lock retainers that allows you to install the Thunderhawk tubes without welding or drilling. Anyone looking for a bolt-in frame tube will find that the Thunderhawk tubes are far cheaper than any other bolt-in frame tubes for the RZR. Now, for someone who welds and fabricates, the weld-in tubes are a great choice since they will save you some bucks by buying only the bare tubes.

If anyone has any question, feel free to call me or e-mail anytime.

Thanks,
Harry


Just a note for anyone welding on their RZR (or having someone else weld it for you). Be sure to isolate the ECU before welding to assure that it is not damaged when welding.
 

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Premium Member
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1,115 Posts
Here are the Original non-weld type chassis stiffeners. They are called "Chassis Bones".
we've been running them in stock chassis race RZR's for a couple years now and they solve just about every problem relating to frame damage from flexing or fatigue.



ATR Chassis Bones strengthen RZR’s chassis by sleeving front and rear of the main frame tubes.

Easy Bolt in Installation taking approximately 30 minutes with basic hand tools. No Welding or Cutting required!

The Chassis Bones feature ATR’s unique Torque-Lock design. Once Chassis Bones are in place you simply bolt on the machined end caps and as you torque the machine bolts down the Chassis Bone’s end features laser cut tabs that spread out, firmly clamping the Chassis Bones in place.

The Chassis Bone’s machined end pieces also feature rubber O-rings that will seal out mud and water. The machined end pieces also add to the finished look of your RZR by closing up the open, un-finished looking chassis tubes. Chassis Bones come in Zinc Chromate finish that will resist rust and corrosion.

With lift kits, larger tires, long travel kits, damaged RZR frames has become extremely common. While the RZR is a great platform to build from, the strength factory chassis really is the RZR’s Achilles’ heel. The ATR Chassis Bones are the best available complete bolt in Chassis Strengthening solution allowing you to hit the trail or track with confidence. The Chassis Bones sleeve the entire length of the thin wall chassis tubes and greatly increase the strength of the RZR’s chassis frame where it receives the most forces from the A-Arm suspension mounts.

The Chassis Bones also prevent the RZR’s lower frame tube from getting dented from rocks or stumps. For RZR’s not running full skid plates that cover these frame tubes it can be very easy to dent the exposed tubes. Once they are dented it is easier for your chassis to bend at crucial areas. The Chassis Bones can in a lot of cases salvage dented or bent frames and re align them. This may require the use of a torch to heat up the bent / dented tubes.

Without having to go through the headache of repairing a damaged frame simply install Chassis Bones and be able to have the confidence of having a properly reinforced frame!

>>Click Here To Read Rockcrawler Magazines Chassis Bones Installation and Review<<


ATR Chassis Components are what keep ATR Drivers Caleb Moore and Corey Buesch's Polaris RZR's in one piece!


This kit reinforces your Polaris RZR Front frame section. If you drive your RZR like a madman or like to jump it, this kit is a must! The machined tubes slide into the Front chassis tubes, increasing the thickness by 130% The kit also includes machined end pieces with rubber o-rings that will seal out mud and water. All pieces come in a Zinc Chromate finish to resist corrosion. Includes stainless steel hardware and detailed installation instructions.


 

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Vendor
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740 Posts
If you've bent the frame at all, any of the frame tubes (bolt-in or weld-in) will not slide in properly. If anyone has bent their frame and is planning to install the Thunderhawk Expand-Lock frame tubes, call us to order (rather than ordering on-line). We can discuss the issues you may have when installing the frame tubes and help you to make the installation as easy as possible.

Harry
Thunderhawk Performance, Inc.
(216) 965-4800
www.thunderhawkperformance.com
 

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Or measure the ID of the tubes and go buy some .120" tube from the local metal supply for 2 dollars a foot or less... Yes it really is that simple. :)
 
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