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Discussion Starter #1
twice now the front differential has quit working, i take apart the connector and it has power 9v dc. then I cycle the differential with a 12 v dc battery charger until it starts faintly clicking. dielectric grease the connection and it works.. shouldn't there be 12v dc power there? any ideas? also in disengaging the 4x4 mode the swith and indicator change but the differential itself remains in 4x4 intil you change gears....i tested this by jacking the rear wheel into the air using a wheeled floorjack.
any ideas? 400 miles total
 

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What machine?

No check engine light? Electronics are most likely fine. The hot side of the chassis plug should have power all the time with the key on, the ground will be switched by the ECU when the AWD switch is turned on, and the machine is in R,L, or H. If any of those don't happen, it will throw a diagnostic code. If it's an 800 rzr, then reverse that, it will have ground all the time and switch the hot side. Once the roller engage, they will stay engaged until the load is removed and the tires or ring gear spins.

You probably have internal issues in the diff, most likely a sheared roll pin, bent armature plate, or cracked case even.
 

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Again, what machine? What year? Starting this post in "General RZR Discussion" doesn't help. 570? 800? 900? XP900? XP1000? XPT? TurboS?

Please detail your troubleshooting with rear jacked up. The Hilyard overrunning clutch (front diff) works different from other SxS diff's.

Sent from my S9+ using Tapatalk Pro
 
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Discussion Starter #4
I am so sorry, I can't believe I didn't give machine specifics.
2018 RZR 1000 turbo Dynamix (non S)
it seems although it so hard to do by myself. that I get 12v intermittently to engage the front differential.
4x4 light always on
check engine light on 520207 5 code (electrical open)
no front-wheel drive at all
I disconnected the connector and checked voltage pin to pin and got 9 at times and 12+ at times with 4x4 switch on in gear R,L,H. (I have not checked power to the machine ground)

I then applied voltage (12Vdc) to the differential using a battery charger after som messing with it started lightly clicking (normal I think)
after I reassembled and the 4x4 acted normal...BTW rear end in the air on a rolling floor jack. so it would pull and push the RZR I shut it down waited for about 30 minutes and retried with the same no 4x4 result. this time applying voltage the diff I could not get a clicking consistently. I think there was some but it's so quiet it's hard to tell.

I will check the pin voltage to the machine ground. any other tests or ideas? I did this once before the last ride and it worked for 1 ride.
 

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Aspiring Perfectionist
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I am so sorry, I can't believe I didn't give machine specifics.
2018 RZR 1000 turbo Dynamix (non S)
it seems although it so hard to do by myself. that I get 12v intermittently to engage the front differential.
4x4 light always on
check engine light on 520207 5 code (electrical open)
no front-wheel drive at all
I disconnected the connector and checked voltage pin to pin and got 9 at times and 12+ at times with 4x4 switch on in gear R,L,H. (I have not checked power to the machine ground)

I then applied voltage (12Vdc) to the differential using a battery charger after som messing with it started lightly clicking (normal I think)
after I reassembled and the 4x4 acted normal...BTW rear end in the air on a rolling floor jack. so it would pull and push the RZR I shut it down waited for about 30 minutes and retried with the same no 4x4 result. this time applying voltage the diff I could not get a clicking consistently. I think there was some but it's so quiet it's hard to tell.

I will check the pin voltage to the machine ground. any other tests or ideas? I did this once before the last ride and it worked for 1 ride.
That right there changes the entire conversations.... ALWAYS lead with trouble codes if they are present.

So, you do have an electrical issue.

Arte you saying the 4wd light is on regardless of the switch being on or off? If that's the case, you have a ground that is getting to the open side of the switch, could be a loose wire, frayed or exposed wire, improperly wired accessory, etc. There should not be continuity across the switch in the off position, and the open (switched) wire, should not have ground when the switch is off. Could even be that the switch itself has gone bad from corrosion or water ingress, or whatever reason.

Other things to check:

Check resistance across the coil in the diff, should be 22-24 ohms ( 21-25 maybe...going off memory here)

Check to make sure the chassis plug has a good ground, should be less than 5 ohms between the ground on the plug and the negative terminal of the battery (with the key & AWD switch on, in R,L, or H)...then check it with the key off, it should not have continuity

Check all that out and report back, we'll go from there.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Okay so here are the results of the testing: understand that I am at my limit of electrical here LOL

Q: Are you saying the 4wd light is on regardless of the switch being on or off? A: YES

Q: There should not be continuity across the switch in the off position, and the open (switched) wire, should not have ground when the switch is off.
A: there are three wires on the switch Orange (ground - I think), Brown (out - I think) Grey (In - I think)
Orange to battery 117 ohm off and 35 ohm on
Brown to battery .3 ohm off and .3 ohm on

grey to battery 161 ohm off and .4 ohm on

Q: Check resistance across the coil in the diff A: 24.8 Ohm

Q: Check to make sure the chassis plug has a good ground, should be less than 5 ohms between the ground on the plug and the negative terminal of the battery (with the key & AWD switch on, in R,L, or H)...then check it with the key off, it should not have continuity

Chasis plug has two wires red/grey and black white
switch on, key on in High gear
b/w wire = 16M ohms
red/gr wire = open

key off
b/w wire = 244k ohms one time and 800k ohms the next

red/gr wire = 36 ohms one time and 306k ohms the next

so with my VERY limited understanding, it seems I have a ground in the grey wire to the switch? guessing here..
 

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Unplug the 4wd switch and see if the 4wd indicator on the instrument cluster goes off, if it does, then the switch is bad, if it does not, then the gray wire is getting a ground from somewhere else and causing the circuit to be engaged when it shouldn't be, which could possibly be in ECU itself.

In the switch, the orange is the 12v for the light, nothing else, the brown is a ground, and the gray wire goes to the ECU, which sends the ground from the brown when the switch is on, and the ECU sends a ground to energize the coil in the diff.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Unplug the 4wd switch and see if the 4wd indicator on the instrument cluster goes off, if it does, then the switch is bad, if it does not, The indicator does not go off...does anyone know where I can find a schematic so i can check the pin on the ECU connector to the switch wire and see if i get...conductivity with very low resistance? my bet is the wire color changes at some point from connector to connector.
 

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Unplug the 4wd switch and see if the 4wd indicator on the instrument cluster goes off, if it does, then the switch is bad, if it does not, The indicator does not go off...does anyone know where I can find a schematic so i can check the pin on the ECU connector to the switch wire and see if i get...conductivity with very low resistance? my bet is the wire color changes at some point from connector to connector.
Should be here:
 

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Discussion Starter #11
Hmmmmmmmm so i checked the ECU pins (all of them) especially the grey ones to the AWD switch grey wire, no connections with any of them...key off.
 

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Hmmmmmmmm so i checked the ECU pins (all of them) especially the grey ones to the AWD switch grey wire, no connections with any of them...key off.
Cavity 120 on the ECU plug is direct to the pin 3 on the switch, nothing else in line, and the 246 runs from the ECU, to 1 splice on the way to the diff, the other side of that splice goes to a diode that is inline with the 12v wire to the diff coil...it's and interesting configuration, and I have no idea where that diode is honestly..but that may be the source of your problem...
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I truly appreciate the link to the wiring diagrams but being so novice they easily get me confused starting with none of the wires are the correct color. LOL but when i get better and i work with them I will learn! so the next plan is to swap my ECU into another UTV and see if the problem surfaces there, if so then i know its the ECU if not then its a wiring problem..
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Quick question, my plan is to put my ecu into another RZR and see if the problem occurs there. could I damage anything on their machine? I would think not and that its safer than putting the other ECU into my machine.
 

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I truly appreciate the link to the wiring diagrams but being so novice they easily get me confused starting with none of the wires are the correct color. LOL but when i get better and i work with them I will learn! so the next plan is to swap my ECU into another UTV and see if the problem surfaces there, if so then i know its the ECU if not then its a wiring problem..
Quick question, my plan is to put my ecu into another RZR and see if the problem occurs there. could I damage anything on their machine? I would think not and that its safer than putting the other ECU into my machine.
They can be intimidating at first fore sure, The ECU swap will be a good test to rule that out. You can swap your ECU into another machine as long as it's the same model, or vice versa.

Might check for continuity between pins 120 & 246 on the ECU if you can see which ones those are, that the AWD ground loop, I can't be certain how it behave when unplugged, but I would think those two should not have continuity
 

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Discussion Starter #16
Should there be continuity between E120 and the switch? and E246 and the AWD connector?
 

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E120 and pin 3 on the switch should have continuity, and E246 should have continuity with the ground side of the awd connector
 

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Discussion Starter #18
So in trying to find a RZR that I could swap my ECU into the service manager at a local dealership said the ECU is programmable and is used in many many many different UTV/ATVs from Polaris. I knew that but I assumed they were interchangeable, it turns out that that they are not (according to him). So tracing wires now to see if I can locate the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
does anybody know where the SPLICE, AWD LS ZONE E3 (on the 2018 xpt Dynamix) drawing? where it would be located on the rzr also the AWD suppress Diode. I am at my wit's end...I cannot get continuity from the connector GR BR/WT wire to pin E246. I use a needle to push into the pin slot to make positive contact....I spliced in a wire near the ECU onto the E246 wire and ran an independent wire to the dash switch it just changes the code from 520207-5 Current Below Normal Or Open Circuit to 520207-4 Voltage Below Normal, Or Shorted To Low Source - if that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
Soin an effort to see if the ECU was allowing/pushing current to the front differential I rigged a way to check current and everything worked... so I inspected the AWD connector very closely and it seemed the pin receptacles were sort of bent and not making good contact. so I straightened them a bit and everything worked yay. then I reassembled dielectric greased everything and reassembled....then it quit working....so I must have a broken intermittent wire near the connector or a messed up connector internally. is threre a way to replace connectors? any advice finding a broken wire? it is hella tight getting to the connector as is.
 
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