[RzrTheRoof]

I've gone back and forth on whether to add frame tubes/chassis bones to my Rzr. However, since I am in the middle of a small overhaul, I figured why not as most of the parts are, at one point or another, going to be off the Rzr.

The next decision is which to purchase. So far I've looked at ATR's and Thunderhawk's, which are a similar (but not same) design.

ATR's look great and come with a sealing washer, end caps, and stainless hardware. They really look great. My main issue is that they're $400 when getting fronts and rears.

Thunderhawk's come with more traditional hardware and are an attractive $187.00 for front and rear. I can stop at a Tractor Supply and pick up some rubber washers, stainless fender washers, and stainless round head hex screws for about $5, making them "pretty" to look at.

ATR provides for drilling the frame and installing a metal screw to prevent the tube from shifting, whereas Thunderhawk's do not. I don't see this as an issue.

So, that all being said, what am I missing here? Am I overlooking a great benefit that ATR provides? Or are they, like many Rzr parts, simply priced differently but equivalent functionally?

I've done a few searches, and folks like both, but I'm hoping someone can tell me why I should like one over the other. :ride:

 

[jmattor]

UTV INC

What I have in mine. Worried about dirt getting in the hole? Plug it with silicone. :rollfinger:

 

[RzrTheRoof]

I would go with UTV Inc., but I don't have any welding equipment. The price clearly is "right".

 

[MJN]

I went with ATR's and although bit pricy I do love and for me I like the trick way they seal up the end and look. No prob with the fit or anything they went good.

 

[FJK]

I used the ATR's as well .

 

[8ball_99]

You guys with skid plates feel you really need the pipes in there? Just wondering. We have hit some pretty rocky trails and my tubes seem fine.. I do have UHMW skids though. Seems like adding the tubes is just adding weight.

 

[rzrshopping]

I really like the UTV Inc tubes. You don't need a welder, just a self tapping screw in each tube works fine. I'm not sure what the benefit of the fancy ones would be, but I couldn't see paying the extra cost for something that just looks nicer. Its inside the tube, you cant see it anyways. Someone made a good point when I asked about them months ago, if the ends have a cap and water cant drain, rust city........

 

[8ball_99]

If you can't weld and don't have a buddy who can. A welding shop would probably charge you next to nothing to weld the tubes in. Probably like 25 bucks.. I would not cap off the tube. It is the lowest point of the frame good idea to leave it open so water can drain if need be....

 

[RzrTheRoof]

What type of weld is recommended? Just a couple tacks on the end or a full circle following the tube?

 

[8ball_99]

If people are holding them in with a self tapping screw then any weld would be stronger. Hell two little tack welds would be fine.. If it was mine I'd weld it all the way around minus a small spot at the bottom for drainage. My guess is if these pipes fit like they should you probably can't get them out once in anyway.. Only reason to tack them is if you wanted to be able to remove them easily later.

 

[rzrshopping]

It took a decent beating to get the tubes full seated. They would probably stay in by themselves, I ran a screw in just for a little feel good.

 

[ssjeff]

I am planning on beating aluminum rods into them. Solid aluminum should work great and be light.

 

[AKSean]

Why not just go to Lowes or home Depot and get some black heavy duty pipe, cut to size and pound them in? anyone done this? The pipe would cost about $10 rather than $200-$400

 

[GULS67]

Why not just go to Lowes or home Depot and get some black heavy duty pipe, cut to size and pound them in? anyone done this? The pipe would cost about $10 rather than $200-$400

I did but I used stainless pipe 3/4 sch 40 is the size u need but it fits good. Not so tight it will stay. I welded mine in and u need two 16" and two 18" pieces. I only did the bottoms front and rear.

 

[DSMRacing]

I did the Home Depot DIY version. Tack welded them in place and hit it with some black paint. Less than $20.

 

[AKSean]

Why not just go to Lowes or home Depot and get some black heavy duty pipe, cut to size and pound them in? anyone done this? The pipe would cost about $10 rather than $200-$400

I did but I used stainless pipe 3/4 sch 40 is the size u need but it fits good. Not so tight it will stay. I welded mine in and u need two 16" and two 18" pieces. I only did the bottoms front and rear.

Thanks for the size, I hadn't got out and measured it yet, now I dont have to lol

 

[RzrTheRoof]

Why not just go to Lowes or home Depot and get some black heavy duty pipe, cut to size and pound them in? anyone done this? The pipe would cost about $10 rather than $200-$400

I did but I used stainless pipe 3/4 sch 40 is the size u need but it fits good. Not so tight it will stay. I welded mine in and u need two 16" and two 18" pieces. I only did the bottoms front and rear.

Really great info.

Is there enough resistance that they have to be forced in as opposed to slid in? I don't want to go with anything too "loose".

 

[Thunderhawk]

3/4" pipe will be loose.

 

[RzrTheRoof]

Just an FYI for folks installing any tubes:

If your existing frame has a weld line, grind/file it down as best as you can, but also use a Dremel to notch a tiny channel the length of the tube. Both of my front tubes had a very prominent weld line which made installing the tubes terribly difficult.

On the first tube, I made it all but about 2" in when it simply would go no further, either from a tweak in the frame or slag in the tube finally causing enough resistance to make it stop, despite beating it with a hammer. I'm going to cut the end off and simply leave it as-is.

On the second, I cut a channel and it is so far, so good (will finish another night). Hopefully I can get it all the way installed through the channel and brute force.