[ArcticRZR]

Against my better judgement I thought I would try installing my fox float shocks that are on my Arctic cat snowmachine on the front of my 08 rzr with stock suspension.

I took some basic measurements and the fox float is 1" longer than the stock Polaris Coilover.

I was tired of bashing the bejesus out of the non existent bumpstop on the front right factory RZR shock so it was an act of desperation.

I pumped the pre load on the Fox up to around 60PSI (max allowed is 150psi @ static rest, zero weight on shock). I took some initial measurements before and after install and I have lost zero height after the swap. The only compromise thus far is the shock eyelets match up however the width of the shock mount is narrower than the A arm and fram mounts so I will need to add some washers or play around with bushings.

I only installed 1 shock on the right side for an easy comparison, took her on a quick trip up a pot holed road near the house and was pleasantly surprised at how the fox side soaked up the nasty bumps compared to the paint mixer action of the left shock.

I did this because I had them around, and could not find anywhere on the forum where someone has tried this. I understand if I blow a seal I am coming home on whatever nitrogen charge is left on the Fox, however these things have been proven to be fairly robust in the sport quad world as well as getting hammerred on under my 700lb arctic cat sled, and enduring much larger jumps than any RZR will ever see.

I will test this setup this weekend with both fox floats on the front suspension and report back how things went. If it goes wlel i will shoot for a long term test and see how it survives tons of mud/snow and ice we get up here on a regular basis. I understand the valving for this application may be a bit off, however in the off road world sometimes you never really know what might work perfectly!

I am new to this forum and th rzr world and thought I would add my little contribution since so many of you have done TONS of research for us other guys already. Seems like a great group of people!

I live in Wasilla Alaska, and ride forest trails with mostly mud, roots, rocks and water. EVERY ride is a mini adventure and I am astounded at what the rzr can do!

I will post up pics asap. Last trip I somehow lost my iphone off the back of the utv :sad:

 

[cwspfx]

Check for CV bind ... if you go to far on the CV ... it will break!

 

[sld386]

Welcome and we appreciate all info.

 

[ArcticRZR]

You know I was curious about that. I disconnected front and rear sways (im an old toyota rock crawler guy and love articulation). But am cautious about the cv bind.

I could not figure out what is limiting the A arm droop though. I had the shock removed entirely and the suspension would only droop about 1" lower than the shock would allow if connected.

Is the CV itself holding things together for dear life? Or is it the bind in the suspension geometry?

If things get bad I will simply sew up some limiting straps and install them.

 

[HawkEng]

It is the CV that keeps if from going any further. I don't the the ball joints are stopping it yet.

I have a set of Fox floats on my Yamaha Apex sled and really like them. What a weight savings with no springs!

 

[ArcticRZR]

When i get home i will check for CV bind at full droop just in case.

I agree about the weight savings! I believe it is arond six lbs per shock up front on the sled.

Unsprung weight is more critical than most people realize especially on the rebound.

My biggest concearn is the durability of this experiment under the heavy RZR. I have the winch, brush bar, full skids, sliders, rear bumper, add around 20 LBS of mud, my 200 lb arse, and a passenger and I think the shocks may be screaming for mercy.

However I did not require tons of PSI on the preload to attain stock ride height (or slightly higher than worn spring height). So that shows promise.

First trail ride I will certainly bring my coil shocks and tools just in case I have a blowout in the middle of nowhere.

 

[kedi]

Anxious to see what you discover Luke. Sounds kinda promising...
Ken

 

[ArcticRZR]

I will get home from work tonite (I work swings) and grab the other shock and throw it in and take it for a longer ride and let you guys know. Of course the real test will be on a longer ride with several hours of suspension cycling and heat etc...

Cross fingers! Worst case Ill take them off and buy the proper stuff!

I will also cover them since I do not trust the seals keeping the nasty mud out of the sleeves.

 

[Makin' Trax]

The ball joint at the spindle binds before the cv's on the front.

 

[ArcticRZR]

Well I checked for any binding at foll droop with the floats on...nothing I can detect and no odd noises. I re measured the stock vs float and the floats are actually 1/2" longer than stock, hopefully not an issue.

I took it for a spin and was not overwhelmed with the ride quality however it is MUCH better than the stock setup. Smaller bumps are still there at speed and the larger ruts are felt, however you can hit them much faster without fear of bottoming out. I did not have much time as I had to get to work however I am wanting to experiment with different pressures. The rear was throwing me around and sidesteping on some of the ruts and bumps so I had to take it easy. This weekend will reveal more when I hit some random trial. Sorry but no dunes here guys! Otherwise I would love to see how they react in that enviornment. On a good note, the shocks do not compress nearly as much from ride weight as the stockers did. One of the main reasons I am trying this in the first place.

I don't think this is a good replacement for a properly tuned coilover setup, as the emulsion in the shocks (eventual fade) and durability will probably never match coils for our uses.

But for the heck of it I will run this until I can afford some elkas or Makin trax springs as I was quite impresed witht the youtube videos of the rzr on stock shocks with makin trax spings.

Lots of rock crawlers and buggies are running air shocks, but usually to save cost and weight/space savings gained by using them.

My goal is to have a suspension that is cadillac ride quality in the trails. I hate having to slow down for small transitions/roots/ rocks etc... when my friends on their quads are blasting up the trail with ease.

I understand its more difficult without going long arm but that is simply not in the cards right now.

*still working on pics! Had to order a new iphone and who knows when that will arrive.*

 

[Makin' Trax]

Well I checked for any binding at foll droop with the floats on...nothing I can detect and no odd noises. I re measured the stock vs float and the floats are actually 1/2" longer than stock, hopefully not an issue.

I took it for a spin and was not overwhelmed with the ride quality however it is MUCH better than the stock setup. Smaller bumps are still there at speed and the larger ruts are felt, however you can hit them much faster without fear of bottoming out. I did not have much time as I had to get to work however I am wanting to experiment with different pressures. The rear was throwing me around and sidesteping on some of the ruts and bumps so I had to take it easy. This weekend will reveal more when I hit some random trial. Sorry but no dunes here guys! Otherwise I would love to see how they react in that enviornment. On a good note, the shocks do not compress nearly as much from ride weight as the stockers did. One of the main reasons I am trying this in the first place.

I don't think this is a good replacement for a properly tuned coilover setup, as the emulsion in the shocks (eventual fade) and durability will probably never match coils for our uses.

But for the heck of it I will run this until I can afford some elkas or Makin trax springs as I was quite impresed witht the youtube videos of the rzr on stock shocks with makin trax spings.

Lots of rock crawlers and buggies are running air shocks, but usually to save cost and weight/space savings gained by using them.

My goal is to have a suspension that is cadillac ride quality in the trails. I hate having to slow down for small transitions/roots/ rocks etc... when my friends on their quads are blasting up the trail with ease.

I understand its more difficult without going long arm but that is simply not in the cards right now.

*still working on pics! Had to order a new iphone and who knows when that will arrive.*

The 1/2 inch longer won't hurt anything. You will need to disconnect the front swaybar on both sides though. I would now take the Nitogen up to 150 psi and try that. It will probably be too stiff, but you will feel the change. Then go back to 100 psi which will put you between where you started and maximum pressure. Then if softer is desired go to 80 psi or harder go to 125 psi. Make big changes so you feel the difference. Then split the difference each time. Within a couple of changes you will be within a couple pounds of where you want to be. Remember to ride over the same trail or track so the changes are recognized. Good luck.

 

[ssjeff]

I have been conteplating a set of Fox Float Evols that have DSC/Rebound on them. I think a Honda 450r shock is the same length. In November you can get them used on ebay at a decent rate.

I know someone who put stock Honda 450r shocks on the front of their RZR and liked it. You can get them at $150 on ebay. Have them resprung and valved and have $500 in them when you are done. The LTR450 and YFZ shocks are about the same length. Make sure they are not long travel.

I may have a set of Honda shocks to try out and I will let you guys know how they hold up.

 

[johnnycat8]

Check for CV bind ... if you go to far on the CV ... it will break!

i was thinking the same with a longer shock it might be to long....but you never no

 

[johnnycat8]

The ball joint at the spindle binds before the cv's on the front.

their you go....hmmmm this could be why some are breaking ball joints....steve is on to something

 

[MTW]

I will get home from work tonite (I work swings) and grab the other shock and throw it in and take it for a longer ride and let you guys know. Of course the real test will be on a longer ride with several hours of suspension cycling and heat etc...

Cross fingers! Worst case Ill take them off and buy the proper stuff!

I will also cover them since I do not trust the seals keeping the nasty mud out of the sleeves.

just bring your other shocks and tools, i wouldnt want you way out and dead in the water so to speak, just jake it up and put the oldies back on to make it home (but im sure youve thought of that) but im just looking out for you... good luck, I love it when members come up with new and original ideas!

 

[ssjeff]

Keep in mind that shocks can be modified to acheive the stock demensions. If the shaft is too long spacers can be added inside the shock to shorten the stroke. If the body is too long, depending on what shock it is you have it cut down. Once I figure things out I will let you guys know and some shock guys who can do the work.

 

[CSG]

FYI, atleast on mine.

Front suspension droop is limited in this order:
shock
swaybar
tie-rod
balljoint binds about when the Cv starts tightening up. 27 deg. on mine.

 

[yoshman762]

Sorry if Im bringing up relics but, I started a thread about this a few weeks back. I must have skipped right over this when I was searching. Im wondering what the results came out to be. Any more info on this guys?

Yoshman

 

[yoshman762]

Another question has anyone tried this set up with an RZR S model?