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Discussion Starter #1
I recently put a clutch kit, and slip on muffler (Yoshimira Polaris) on my 2012 xp4. Immediately afterwords, it started overheating. It seems fine fan kicking on right when it should (199 to 200) then after about 10 minutes the fan starts, and only runs for around 20 seconds, then shuts down. This causes a gradual overheating situation, running up to 235, with the fans kicking on intermittently,running for around 20 seconds then shutting down. As a trail fix, I pulled the relay, put some 20 amp fuses in it to make the fans run constantly, and it runs at 183-186, never getting hotter. I have swapped relays and had the same effect. Coolant is full, nothing else was changed, and immediately before the muffler/clutch kit, it was perfect. Any ideas?
 

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I recently put a clutch kit, and slip on muffler (Yoshimira Polaris) on my 2012 xp4. Immediately afterwords, it started overheating. It seems fine fan kicking on right when it should (199 to 200) then after about 10 minutes the fan starts, and only runs for around 20 seconds, then shuts down. This causes a gradual overheating situation, running up to 235, with the fans kicking on intermittently,running for around 20 seconds then shutting down. As a trail fix, I pulled the relay, put some 20 amp fuses in it to make the fans run constantly, and it runs at 183-186, never getting hotter. I have swapped relays and had the same effect. Coolant is full, nothing else was changed, and immediately before the muffler/clutch kit, it was perfect. Any ideas?
Check the temp sender connection on the head, make sure it's tight...
 

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Discussion Starter #3
I will check it tonight when I get home, thanks Tim, hopefully its that simple!
 

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I will check it tonight when I get home, thanks Tim, hopefully its that simple!
I've found that it happens more than one would think... Take it off check the pins inside to make sure there aligned (not bent) re-install the plug make sure it locks with a click noise...
 

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Discussion Starter #5
I will check it out, while I was at Brimstone, there was a dealer setup there, they replaced an axle and the upper control arm bushings under warranty, and had a good deal on a clutch kit and muffler combo, so I went for it. The muffler is too loud by a longshot! That will be coming off, but after the work was done it started this. I have to clean her up, and then I will chick this sensor, I don't think anything they did could have caused this, It was just an unfortunate coincidence that this started happening right afterwords.
 

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Might be running lean with that muffler, that would create extra heat. Just a guess, swap back to stock and check it. Also look at page 85 in owners manual on how to bleed air from cooling system. A lot of these seem to have air in the system that causes overheating issue.

Just thinking out loud.

Chris


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Discussion Starter #7
I checked the plug on the sensor, it was good, I pulled it off and checked the tabs, all good, it clicked when I replaced it. I am not sure how it would get air in the system, I need to try and bleed it I guess. I had the same thought on the muffler, I have really nowhere to test it at home. Have to go somewhere for a short ride.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
So I have removed the muffler, put the stocker back on, same problem, going to bleed the coolant system . This is getting frustrating. after it gets up to temperature, the fan stays on for a shorter and shorter duration, allowing it to overheat, once it hits 206, the fan only comes on sporadically, and only stays on for around 10 seconds, and it just keeps getting hotter. It is full of coolant, catch tank is at the correct level. What the hell is wrong with this thing??? Thermister??
 

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Discussion Starter #9
NO air in the system, just bled it, came out fluid right away. ordering thermister tomorrow. and new relay. I am guessing sensors can go our anytime, it is frustrating not knowing exactly what is wrong, I hate throwing parts at it. Not the expense, its the guessing.
 

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I'm assuming the xp has the same circuit breaker as the rest of the rzr's . If so I'd chck and change it. 90% of rzr overheating issues start with bad connections at the circuit breaker.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
so there is a circuit breaker, and a relay? getting back into the manual and checking for location of that...
 

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Look in the area around the battery in the wiring harness. On the 11 S you have to pull the skid to access it. I think on yours it may be accessable from the top?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
in case I forgot to mention it, I did bypass the relay and run the fans non stop to get it back to the campsite, and it ran between 183 and 187 the whole time, this is why I ruled out an air bubble, even though I did bleed it last night anyway, just to make sure..
 
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in case I forgot to mention it, I did bypass the relay and run the fans non stop to get it back to the campsite, and it ran between 183 and 187 the whole time, this is why I ruled out an air bubble, even though I did bleed it last night anyway, just to make sure..
Would seem that would probably rule out the circuit breaker as well wouldn't it? So if i understand the temp reading on the display is working or do you have a aftermarket gauge? If the stock temp guage works read on..if you have an aftermarket guage disregard lol.
So the issue is the temp reading is indicating temps high enough the fan should come on and stay in until it gets back to the kickoff temp but it's not doing that correct? If so (display temp working) that should rule out the sensor. And if you jump the relay and the fan stays on that tells me the problem lies in the signal from the ECU to the relay..whether it be a wiring issue or and ECU issue. Are you not getting a check engine light and codes?
 

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Discussion Starter #15
no check engine light, unless I jump the relay, but when I put it back in, light goes off. No aftermarket gauge, all stock, I am putting it back together and taking it to polaris, still under 6 month warranty. I thought it was due to the exhaust change, and have ruled it out, It seems that my relays get super hot though, all of them, I can barely touch them to pull one out! Mind you it is really the whole fuse block under the dash, all relay's are hot. I have switched them around with same results.
 

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What you bypassed must be the problem if it make it run and not cycle on and off or the sensor that tell this when to cycle on and off

JM $.02
 

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Discussion Starter #17
I put fused in the relay spot, and I agree, but when I switched relays with the fuel pump, the fuel pump still worked, and the fan did the same thing, sooo, conventional logic went out the window. That is why it is so frustrating!
 
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If you were to put a meter on the relay trigger wire from the ECU that when the fan cuts off the voltage on that trigger wire is being lost or its loosing ground for some reason..like I said whether it be a wiring problem between the ECU and the relay or the relay ground or the ECU itself. With all the relays getting hot im thinking bad ground somewhere..I agree I'd take it in if it's under warranty..could be a can of worms.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
yeah, that is where I am, I have had it all apart, and at this point I am close to the end of my warranty, so might as well get it in before the end of the warranty, and have them sort it out.
 
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