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Discussion Starter · #41 ·
I'd expect well. We don't get much sheer in our engines like say a motorcycle would.
 

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Discussion Starter · #43 ·
We apparently do quite different things. I suppose we average 100 mile days since we stop so much. I'm probably changing oil at 500 miles or there about's, maybe more.

best of luck to you.

-d
 

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Here was my first sample from the PS-4 HD... 240 miles on the oil (340 on the machine) and almost all of it was from our trip to the Black Hills. Running unleaded race fuel on a DynoJet tune. I'll be curious to see where lead goes from here.


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Based on these numbers I think Schaeffer racing oil is damn good oil and it does have a detergent package. Have been running for many years in my 800 and have no issues. It does have a good zinc package so since i have a flat tappet cam I will continue using it. Needing 2 qts per oil change I am not too worried about the price and it is readily available from Amazon and distributors.

Supreme 9000 Racing Oil SAE 5W-50 is not recommended for use in those motorcycle and ATV applications that specify engine oil that meets JASO MA or MB. Use of Supreme 9000 Racing Oil SAE 5W-50 in applications that specify JASO MA or MB oil can cause slippage and improper engagement of the clutch mechanisms. Supreme 9000 Racing Oil SAE 5W-50 is also not recommended for use in 4-cycle marine engines that specify the use of a NMMA FC or FC-W four cycle engine oil. Supreme 9000 Racing Oil SAE 5W-50 meets and exceeds the following specifications and manufacturers’ requirements: MIL-PRF- 46152E, CID A-A-52039B, API Service Classification SM/CF, Ford WSS-M2C153-G, ESR-M2C127-B, ESR-M2C179-A, SSM-29011-A, WSS-M2C929-A, WSSM2C931-A, WSS-M2C931-B; General Motors specification 6094M and 4718M, ACEA A1/B1, Chrysler MS9767, MS6395; JASO JIS K2215 and VTW. TYPICAL PROPERTIES SAE Grade 5W-50 Viscosity @ 40C, cSt (ASTM D-445) 146.87 Specific Gravity (ASTM D-1298) 0.85 Viscosity @ 100C, cSt (ASTM D-445) 20.24 Viscosity Index (ASTM D-2270) 158 High Temperature/High Shear Viscosity 302F/150C, cP (ASTM D-4683) 5.08 Cold Cranking Viscosity(ASTM D-5293) @-30C, cP 6,005 Mini Rotary Viscosity TP-1 @ -35, cP (ASTM D-4683) 25,000 Flash Point F/C (ASTM D-92) 440/226.67 Stable Pour Point F/C (FTM 7916 Method 203) <-41/<-42 Total Base Number (ASTM D-2896) 7.1 Sulfated Ash Content % wt (ASTM D-874) 1.1 Shear Stability (ASTM D-3945 Procedure A) % Viscosity Loss 14% Copper Strip Corrosion Test (ASTM D-130) 1a NOACK Volatility %Evaporation Loss (ASTM D-5800) 8.92% Foam Test (ASTM D-892) Sequence I 0/0 Sequence II 0/0 Sequence III 0/0 Sequence IV 0/0 High Temperature Foam Test (ASTM D6082 Option A) 0/0 MHT-4 TEOST (ASTM 6335) Deposit Weight, mg 23.8 Engine Rusting Ball and Rust Test (ASTM D-6557) Average Gray Value 133
 

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Any recommendations for what type/brand oil to use on
2012 razor 4 800 bobby Gordon?
also
2012 ranger crew diesel in the Caribbean?
I would love to stock up on all the oils but Polaris branded oil is expensive.
thanks
 

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This is great info. I myself have been using the Rotella T6.

I havent read anything in this thread about what oil to use for breaking in a new or rebuilt motor. Thoughts on that?


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I use premium blue 15w40 Valvoline conventional oil in my Diesel farm tractor, they drop the zinc content from 1200ppm down to 800 ppm and classify it for gasoline engines and natural gas and diesel. Not good for Diesel engines I found T6 synthetic oil articles claiming 1200 ppm of zinc but they are older articles . I emailed Shell oil ask them to confirm zinc content ,but they haven’t got back with me been about five days.
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Discussion Starter · #50 ·
Hello all. Been a bit, I'm spending most of my free time propping up my kids and their families, most of whom are frontline healthcare. Hobbies=backseat so to speak.

Joe, your question is an interesting one. I'm going to assume both are in the Carribean, but if not let me know.

Tangent:
Poo updated (last fall I think) their oil formulation and now suddenly everything ends in a 50. Let's not think the engines changed, but now some folks are gonna freak out and think they have to buy Poo oils. Nope, this is Poo marketing, don't buy into it. In fact try not to buy any oil with a lot of viscosity improvers in it. Say a 5W-50. That range will break down faster than say a 15W-50 will and will typically have started out barely making the 50 range anyway. It would become a 5W-40 in short order and keep dropping. Mind you for a winter oil it's the direction to go.​
As to diesel, they aren't asking for anything special vs spark ICE.​

Generically:
Oil viscosity is a funny thing. At warm (room temperature) to hot it really doesn't change (thinner) in viscosity much. Get cold (say below freezing) and the viscosity increase is huge and looks exponential. This has some interesting aspects in area's that never get cold​
  1. We can run thicker oils for better protection.
    1. I'd run on the "hot" side 50 without hesitation regardless of what Poo spec'd for it.
    2. The low temp doesn't matter in any meaningful way. I'd run a 20W.
    3. Heck you run a straight weight 30 but why?
  2. Diesels are reputed to have dirty oil, so I'd certainly want a solid detergent pack, and I'd keep on eye on the HTHS values.
So you can thicker oils all around. I don't see you mentioning turbo, extended high temp use etc, so..

A safe and easy answer is indeed T-6 in 15W-40. It's Ck-4, a pretty solid diesel cert, works in motorcycle wet clutches (it's MA-2) . It's no longer SM or SN rated, but it's still great for spark ICE engines. Just a bit hard on cat converters. I keep it around all the time. There are a few places it shouldn't be used, and I'll cover those, but it's great choice as an all-around engine oil and will do well for you in both machines.

When not to use T-6:
  1. Any T-GDI engine.
  2. Any engine with a cat converter that you care about (although I use it in cars all the time, so...)
  3. I would avoid it in high temperature turbo applications, something really working hard, etc. In those cases I'd rather see some of the better 50 oils here.
So yea, for you nothing to really get concerned about. FWIW, I would not hesitate to run Mobile 15W-50 either, and if you're facing high heavy engine loads and/high heat that's what I'd do.

Not both are stupid easy to get your hands on and relatively cheap, do change it regularly and call it good. Honestly you selection of air filter is the most important thing. Make sure that's well done.
 

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Discussion Starter · #51 ·
Trail:

Zinc in T-6 is still fine as of a year or so anyway. Doubt it's changed. I show 1200 in my notes too, and I've seen 1080 reported in VOA's so. That's also the biggest alleged reason they don't pursue SM/SN anymore although I think those viscosities are actually exempt from limitation.
 
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Discussion Starter · #52 ·
Handy:

Lots of schools of thought in break-in oils. You'll read anything from mineral oil on up. Some say synthetic oil won't let an engine break in the cylinder bore well, others say hogwash. The truth is probably somewhere in the middle. I suppose it comes down to a few things if we're trying to be relatively safe:

For a new warranty engine run what they stipulate. I have no idea what Poo puts in there as a first oil, so we do not want to screw with it. If we did know that would be different, but...

For anything else I'd run a straight Dino oil for 20 hours, and I'd add a considerable shot, lets say 3oz, or Rislone ZDDP.

Beyond that I'd work on getting heat - cool cycles built up, and I'd not spend much time at idle, constant RPM, or high RPM. I'd avoid break-in start-ups in temps below 30f.

Once I had 20 hours in I'd move to group III synthetic, add at least one oz. of ZDDP,, and put another 10-20 hours on it. This 20 I'd run it pretty much how normally, but I'd still avoid cold startups, let it warm up easily, and heat cycle it often. After that's it's fair game.

Somewhere in there you want to change all the oils to something quality.
 
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Discussion Starter · #54 ·
I'd be leaning towards something lower vis and keeping heat off of it at first. More like 10w-40. It's all about making sure it has oil right away as it starts so make sure it's not getting started below freezing if you can. Otherwise I'd just keep the RPM down a bit for a while.
 
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