This thread attempts to discuss the best options for engine oil for our Rzr’s. This as much for the forums benefit as it is for my own. The first post will be reserved for conclusions while the next several will dig in a little. This is hardly a deep dive into tribology. If you really want to get deep into this head over to BITOG.
Recommendations:
Personally I’ll be adding 1-2 oz of Rislone ZDDP additive #4405 per oil change which adds roughly 430 PPM zinc and phosphorous and gets us into the 1550ppm range (assuming Mobile 1) which is both pretty solid and pretty safe. Racing oil add pack levels here. But I don’t have a cat in my muffler anymore either. If you do you should skip this step, for these levels of zinc will harm your cat. T-6, BTW is about the same.
This is $25 and is easy and fast - just drop what’s in the oil pan every 25-30 hours, changing the filter every other. If you want to use one of the Group IV-V’s and change it more often too great, but fresh non-diluted oil trumps “super oil”.
What this thread is not:
Please do not reply “My uncles mother-in-laws second ex-husband had a 1500HP Challenger with a 429 ZL-1 and it used Quaker State and pump gas” (Yes, I know. Intentional). On the other hand if you have hard data please share and include the data points.
Why not Polaris Oil:
A VOA done on Polaris PS-4 some time back was not complimentary:
Polaris PS-4
Perhaps it’s been reformulated, but if they were delivering a less than quality oil then why would I think they are now? Meanwhile, on the PS-4 Extreme front, have you priced that stuff? I was going to buy a quart today just to send it off to a lab to have it evaluated, but at $18 a quart they are OUT OF THEIR MIND. I can order the Redline in with no shipping at my local O’Rielly Auto Parts, or the Amsoil in at my local Ace hardware. Either at lots le$$, and both represent top of the food chain oils. So no Poo oil.
Recommendations:
- If cost is no object, or you happen to (mistakenly) belong to the “I change it as often as the factory says to” club, you should be running either Amsoil’s 5W-50 UTV oil (argh, it galls me to say that) or Redline Powersports 10W-50. Both are Group IV-V oils.
- Redline is a very solid choice, with good high temp viscosities and a great add pak. Amsoil hi temp viscosity looks even better, but the add pack, or at least the part the part will release, is weaker. I suspect strongly it’s still fine, but what we know of it does not appear as strong as Redlines. Let’s call that a tie. Or add a little Rislone ZDDP to the Amsoil for the win.
- Shell Rotella T6 5W-40 (non-turbo use)
- Mobile 1 Advantage 15W-50 (all turbos).
- Oil Change Intervals (OCI):
- Some of this depends on Turbo or not, and if so how well you give it a cool down cycle.
- Non-Turbo: I'd arrange outing and OCI's such that I wasn't coming back from an outing over 50, and I'd rather be in the 50's.
- Turbo:
- If you can honestly say you're using a good cool-down cycle then you can do that same. Just make sure you're using a great oil.
- If you're not you're probably coking bearing and burning oil. I'd be changing it under 50 hours
- Keep in eye on oil levels and smell. These engines have small crankcases and a mild reputation for fuel dilution. If you're seeing oil level increase, or the oil has a strong fuel smell, you probably want to shorten the OCI down.
- Some of this depends on Turbo or not, and if so how well you give it a cool down cycle.
Personally I’ll be adding 1-2 oz of Rislone ZDDP additive #4405 per oil change which adds roughly 430 PPM zinc and phosphorous and gets us into the 1550ppm range (assuming Mobile 1) which is both pretty solid and pretty safe. Racing oil add pack levels here. But I don’t have a cat in my muffler anymore either. If you do you should skip this step, for these levels of zinc will harm your cat. T-6, BTW is about the same.
This is $25 and is easy and fast - just drop what’s in the oil pan every 25-30 hours, changing the filter every other. If you want to use one of the Group IV-V’s and change it more often too great, but fresh non-diluted oil trumps “super oil”.
What this thread is not:
Please do not reply “My uncles mother-in-laws second ex-husband had a 1500HP Challenger with a 429 ZL-1 and it used Quaker State and pump gas” (Yes, I know. Intentional). On the other hand if you have hard data please share and include the data points.
Why not Polaris Oil:
A VOA done on Polaris PS-4 some time back was not complimentary:
Polaris PS-4
Perhaps it’s been reformulated, but if they were delivering a less than quality oil then why would I think they are now? Meanwhile, on the PS-4 Extreme front, have you priced that stuff? I was going to buy a quart today just to send it off to a lab to have it evaluated, but at $18 a quart they are OUT OF THEIR MIND. I can order the Redline in with no shipping at my local O’Rielly Auto Parts, or the Amsoil in at my local Ace hardware. Either at lots le$$, and both represent top of the food chain oils. So no Poo oil.