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I figured Inwud try the Polaris tensioners and get it documented that I tried to use their part so if something happens down the road I wud be covered. It weird, I ride with guys tha have thousands of miles on and never had a problem with theirs. I also had my oil pressure checked when the installed the second one. I only had 200 miles on mine when the tensioners went out.
 

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I installed the aftermarket tensioner literally the day after my warranty ran out. I don't like that timing chain having excessive slack for any reason. Especially when these motors are interference engines.

If the factory hydraulic tensioner had a ratchet mechanism, it would be an ideal piece.

Instead they rely on (too light) spring pressure to keep tension under startup when chain movement is very violent and jerky.

A good anti drainback valve on the oil filter will help keep *some* oil in the galleys, but it will never get rid of the noise as the oil can and does drain down through the bearings slowly.

Warranty or not, I'd still install one as Polaris knows and has seen bent valves due to startup tensioner issues. They just don't have a "fix" available for these beyond another factory part.

If you're worried about it, get the noise documented although I'm sure it'll be called a "normal noise".

Marcus
 

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There's a good instructional video on the install on boondockers' website.

The short version?

Find TDC on the motor where there are no valves being held open by the cams,
Unscrew the factory tensioner (located on passenger side of car, on rear of cylinder about mid way up), install new aftermarket tensioner using all parts provided and according to instructions included.

Marcus
 

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Discussion Starter #25
As a common problem and understandable due to poor lubrication and tensioner design,everyone points first to the tensioner.As well i agree but i knew there was a deeper cause,this is what i have been doing for a living close to 30yrs automotive.Turns out spring in the oil pump is broken (makes some pressure and builds with RPM's)and Polaris is well aware of this problem.So beware if your engine is knocking DON'T just assume it's a bad tensioner and put an aftermarket one in and assume it's fixed,tensioner/chain guide noise may be gone now with constant spring pressure but top end will have lack of lubrication, and because you will be starving the top end of oil damage down the road will happen. Just my opinion for what it's worth!
 

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I changed oil and filter on my xp1k, now when I first start it it knocks for about 5 sec. then goes away. Oil level is good. Should I be worried?
Anytime you hear a knock, or a tap, this is typically a sign of metal to metal contact with no oil present, while you may be told its "normal" it is causing damage and overtime it will show itself. The bearing surfaces on the crank have a very tight clearance which is supposed to be filled with oil, the thin layer of oil prevents metal to metal wear.

On a pushrod style motor OHV, this typically this happens when the hydraulic lifters lose pressure creating slack between the pushrod and the rocker and you hear tapping from the excessive lash in the valves on the top end. On an overhead cam motor the slack is created when the timing chain tensioner bleeds off and you get slack in the chain, again its usually top end noise.

A "knock" is usually slack on the lower end at the crank, either from excessive play in the rod bearings or the main journals. A knock is almost always caused by lack of oil either due to poor maintenance or loss of oil pressure, or poor design.
 

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So what was the consensus here?

2016 XP4 1000, I did a short rip (like 4 miles, when I slowed down I had a severe rattling noise. I shut the engine off, BS's with some buddies with a little bit. I started it back up and it rattled like hell and went away as soon as I revved it up. I drove it home 1 mile and the noise is now gone.

It sounded similar to timing change rattle at startup but was a lot more severe and singular in the knocking noise it made.
 

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Ur noise is a POS polaris cam chain tensioner. I went thru 3 of them before I got smart and installed the boondocker tensioner. Easy cheesy to install and no more engine noise!
 

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Just something to check. . Lift up on your clucth cover at the primary. . . Mine sometimes sags down and will knock on the top at an idle.
 

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I have a manual tensioner for sale that I bought for mine. But never used because Polaris warranted mine and changed to the new style. They went there 2 of the old style ones and it was just like yours, had to rev the motor to but oil pressure up in tensioner
 

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I installed an auto tensioner (Alba Racing) in my 1000 S and all knocks and noise are gone. Dealer said would not affect warranty other than they won't replace that part or repair if its obvious the non Polaris tensioner failed and caused the problem. Noise is gone and I'm a happy camper. No more embarrassing clinky clank ever time I crank up. Video of my install below and noise has not returned. I've put about 20 hours on it with the new tensioner.

 

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I changed oil and filter on my xp1k, now when I first start it it knocks for about 5 sec. then goes away. Oil level is good. Should I be worried?
Scary sound at startup. Polaris said to leave the key on for a bit before starting. Still does it from time to time.
 
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