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I'd put it back to original config first and see how that is. I know that fuse location is bad but replacing a whole harness and ECU is extreme and they can't guarantee success.
 

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Discussion Starter · #23 ·
So, after two and a half weeks, I went to the dealership, and had a chat. The guy was a complete dick! I asked what he had done, and how he came to the conclusion I need to replace my entire wiring harness,and he basically told me my list I had typed out for him Of the items already checked. I even had all the plastics and skid plate removed to make his life easier. I asked him if he has tested continuity on any of the wires, or put power direct to fuel pump. Nope!
He claims that his diagnostic tool won’t “communicate “ with the bike. He has thrown his hands up , his answer to my question was “come and get your bike, and you can knock yourself out”! Very disappointed with service and the “just throw new parts on it until it’s fixed” attitude! Doesn’t anyone diagnose/troubleshoot and repair anymore?? Bike will be picked up this week, and I am back to the drawing board.
if anyone knows of a electrical guru near wasaga beach Ontario, please let me know.
 

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So, after two and a half weeks, I went to the dealership, and had a chat. The guy was a complete dick! I asked what he had done, and how he came to the conclusion I need to replace my entire wiring harness,and he basically told me my list I had typed out for him Of the items already checked. I even had all the plastics and skid plate removed to make his life easier. I asked him if he has tested continuity on any of the wires, or put power direct to fuel pump. Nope!
He claims that his diagnostic tool won’t “communicate “ with the bike. He has thrown his hands up , his answer to my question was “come and get your bike, and you can knock yourself out”! Very disappointed with service and the “just throw new parts on it until it’s fixed” attitude! Doesn’t anyone diagnose/troubleshoot and repair anymore?? Bike will be picked up this week, and I am back to the drawing board.
if anyone knows of a electrical guru near wasaga beach Ontario, please let me know.
Polaris dealers don't troubleshoot they just rip you off. I actually have a good dealership near me with a certified tech and is pretty good but he manages doofus mechanics that can't even tighten a hose clamp. What I would recommend is get on Facebook and ask for help locally like on what's happening Ontario or something like that. Should be someone in the area with power sports knowledge that can get this figured out for you. It's Canada so there should be some knowledgeable people for powersports. Have them work on it at your home so you can watch him and communicate with him as long as you have tools.Good luck. Hope you get it going soon.
 

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Tsoon.That
So, after two and a half weeks, I went to the dealership, and had a chat. The guy was a complete dick! I asked what he had done, and how he came to the conclusion I need to replace my entire wiring harness,and he basically told me my list I had typed out for him Of the items already checked. I even had all the plastics and skid plate removed to make his life easier. I asked him if he has tested continuity on any of the wires, or put power direct to fuel pump. Nope!
He claims that his diagnostic tool won’t “communicate “ with the bike. He has thrown his hands up , his answer to my question was “come and get your bike, and you can knock yourself out”! Very disappointed with service and the “just throw new parts on it until it’s fixed” attitude! Doesn’t anyone diagnose/troubleshoot and repair anymore?? Bike will be picked up this week, and I am back to the drawing board.
if anyone knows of a electrical guru near wasaga beach Ontario, please let me know.
That is why I learned to work on them myself. Electrical I'm so so with experience but have solved many issues even dealers couldn't. I even tested my skills when I tuned up my RZR. Never did anything on a polaris machine and I manually tuned it perfectly. I took it to the dealer for digital wrench tune check and it was perfect. The tech even asked why I brought it in lol. I just wanted to see the numbers for myself. He only charged me 50 bucks. It's sad that we can't rely on our brands dealer mechanics for repairs. It was a shock to me how bad Polaris is. Honda,Suzuki and Arctic Cat dealer mechanics have been amazing from my experience. My buddies brother just bought a new 2021 1000 RZR and has had one problem after the other. He bought it last year at the end if the year and only taken it out a few short times. We had a trail ride planned but it's still in the shop with all sorts of weird problems. It only has 60 miles on it!!!!! I wish I knew then what I know now when I bought mine but after blood sweat and tears I'm happy with it now. Again good luck.
 

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Check other dealers in your area. In my home town, the dealer's mechanics are incompetent. In the town 30 miles away, they are quite sharp.
 

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Discussion Starter · #29 ·
Yes, I ready through it all, and did get some ideas. I went and ran a jumper (used my test light) from ground on battery, and poked the other end behind the green wire (he spoke of in his post) going into the EFI relay. I could feel it click when I turned the key on! I pressed brake and turned key to start, and it rolled over!! Still no start, and no fuel pump whirling, but a victory for me! I feel this is indicating bad ground somewhere. I took the big grounding point under the drivers seat apart again and wire wheeled and sanded everything down and put it all back together. No change.
then we had a big storm blow through here so I went in. Downloaded a service manual, and reading more on the forums. I have a buddy coming at some point who is going to teach me the finer points of using a multi meter, and help me trace wires etc.
I am determined to beat this thing now……. And then go chop some donuts in the Polaris dealer parking lot😁👍.
 

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Yes, I ready through it all, and did get some ideas. I went and ran a jumper (used my test light) from ground on battery, and poked the other end behind the green wire (he spoke of in his post) going into the EFI relay. I could feel it click when I turned the key on! I pressed brake and turned key to start, and it rolled over!! Still no start, and no fuel pump whirling, but a victory for me! I feel this is indicating bad ground somewhere. I took the big grounding point under the drivers seat apart again and wire wheeled and sanded everything down and put it all back together. No change.
then we had a big storm blow through here so I went in. Downloaded a service manual, and reading more on the forums. I have a buddy coming at some point who is going to teach me the finer points of using a multi meter, and help me trace wires etc.
I am determined to beat this thing now……. And then go chop some donuts in the Polaris dealer parking lot😁👍.
Hell yea lol you got this. Did better than the stealership did already. Good luck man.
 

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Pverra I'm doing some wire tracing on the diagram based on what is working and not working. I read earlier that with the key in the run position the dash lights up, the tail lights are on and brake lights work when peddle is pressed. But no fuel pump and when key turned to start it will not crank over. Is that correct? Can you check a couple of things and let me know the results?
1- Key on -Do the headlights work
2- Key on - is there power in the acc socket ?
3- Key on - is there power on the red wire in the plug for the ignition coil?
4- Key on - is there power on the orange wire in the plug for the speed sensor?
5- pull the plug off the temp sensor on the motor, then turn on the key. Does the fan start?
 

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Discussion Starter · #32 ·
Ok people, sorry for the lengthy delay in updating. I decided to bite the bullet and buy a new ecu. Since I will no longer deal with the local “stealership”, I went with an aftermarket from another (non brand specific) shop. Back ordered for a month and a half. Finally arrived and totally different plug🤬. Refund given, time wasted. Three dealerships in Ontario have OEM for $585+ tax and required to bring machine there to have programmed/flashed @ shop rate!
Not in the budget, so ordered used off EBay, from Rzr 800 (s), but same part #. From known running machine.
Arrived yesterday, and “ta-da” , fuel pump runs…cranks…..starts!! Only problem, check engine light on, and idles a little erratically. Doesn’t seem to hit as high of rpm as before. Although haven’t driven yet. Haven’t put much time in on it (Thanksgiving here🙄), but any suggestions what to do next? Will I still need a reflash? Any help retrieving or clearing codes? Thanks again as always!
 

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Ok people, sorry for the lengthy delay in updating. I decided to bite the bullet and buy a new ecu. Since I will no longer deal with the local “stealership”, I went with an aftermarket from another (non brand specific) shop. Back ordered for a month and a half. Finally arrived and totally different plug🤬. Refund given, time wasted. Three dealerships in Ontario have OEM for $585+ tax and required to bring machine there to have programmed/flashed @ shop rate!
Not in the budget, so ordered used off EBay, from Rzr 800 (s), but same part #. From known running machine.
Arrived yesterday, and “ta-da” , fuel pump runs…cranks…..starts!! Only problem, check engine light on, and idles a little erratically. Doesn’t seem to hit as high of rpm as before. Although haven’t driven yet. Haven’t put much time in on it (Thanksgiving here🙄), but any suggestions what to do next? Will I still need a reflash? Any help retrieving or clearing codes? Thanks again as always!
I would think you need it reflashed. That known running machine you got it from could of had the check engine light on. Probably going to have to tune TPS again. Sadly polaris dealer will have to hook it up to digital wrench and they can tune it from there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #34 ·
I would think you need it reflashed. That known running machine you got it from could of had the check engine light on. Probably going to have to tune TPS again. Sadly polaris dealer will have to hook it up to digital wrench and they can tune it from there.
I wondered, thanks. I guess it will mean a road trip, as I will never darken the door of our local dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter · #36 ·
Ok, latest update. As I said above the new (used) ecu arrived, plugged in, starts and runs. Idles erraticaly , check engine light is on, and seems like it goes in limp mode above 2-2500 rpm. I have also learned that although same part number, the ecu I got was from a 2014 (mine is a 2011). Not sure if this is an issue. So scroll through the menu to “check eng” and it shows a code : 0520 194 - 3. I am reading this has to do with “throttle release signal” that the voltage is to high. I.e - stuck throttle cable.(which it isn’t) . I have looked around the throttle pedal for a electrical plug of sorts, but don’t see anything. Is this something added after 2011? Called every dealer in 100 km of me, and they can look at it in Dec. Deer season is here, and I could really use it! Any advice, or point me in the right direction? Thanks in advance!
 

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What is the part number of original ECU?
What is the part number of replacement ECU?
What is part number on sticker on both ECUs?


TRS - Throttle Release Sensor
Added to 800 in 2012 or 2013
It is to prevent unintended runaway launching IF you start RZR in gear with gas pedal fully depressed.
Obviously an added feature by Corporate Lawyers, after someone had alleged experience.

See attached PDF.

Automotive lighting Sink Motor vehicle Automotive tire Automotive design
 

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Discussion Starter · #38 ·
Thanks, that is exactly what I was looking for. First two photos are of stock ecu (2011), second two are the doner. Same original part number.
I am assuming that the doner was programmed to read this TRS switch (which mine doesn’t have) so the ECU is assuming my throttle is WOT, hence “limp mode”. It does seem like it’s retarding the engine and running rich. Won’t throttle past 2500 rpm.
So…. Did I waste my $$ on this used part, or is there a work around?
 

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4012838 is generic un-flashed ECU. Both the same.
4013209 is generic ECU programmed for RZR in 2010.
4013590 is generic ECU programmed for RZR S in 2012.

You probably need to have replacement ECU flashed for your particular model year RZR.
I have not determined if a "knowledgeable" dealer can use Digital Wrench to flash an ECU, as a standalone part, or if it needs to be installed in a RZR.
 
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