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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
2011 RZR 800
Ok, been chasing electrical gremlins all week! Was starting running fine. Noticed fan not coming on and temp light coming on.
located circuit breaker under battery box. It was corroded, and had failed. Purchased new 20 amp breaker, and relocated behind drivers seat. Tests good, 12 volts on both poles.
now I turn key to position 1, and dash lights up. I do not hear fuel pump priming. Break lights are on. If I turn key to start, I get a buzzing from the relays (above steering column). Not sure which one. I have switched relays around, no change.
if I remove the chassis relay it will crank, but no start (no fuel pump).
i have gone to Polaris dealer and bought 2 new relays (all they had , $56馃が) and tried in various positions. No change.
I have cleaned brake safety switch, frame mounted grounds, fuel pump connection etc etc, and dialectic grease. No change.
checked every fuse , including wheel well behind drivers seat. No change.
Any suggestions before I torch this thing??
 

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Sure you didn't hook that circuit breaker up backwards? You just have to start probing your circuits.
 

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Put in the circuit break backwards... Now that's funny!

It's hard to know the "buzz" you refer to, but that might be inadequate voltage at the relays. Try checking voltage at the relays. Did you maybe add some wiring?

I know notting about the 800, but only one 20 amp fuse? Are you certain there are not more?

Have you looked at the sevice manual and started to trace back power from the fuel pump? It should be relatively simply to back track until you find the problem.
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·
Yes, I think there is no chance circuit breaker is backwards. I have checked with a test light and have power at everything in the fuse box. I haven鈥檛 used a volt meter. I have taken apart and cleaned up the connections upstream. Not seeing power at the fuel pump.
haven鈥檛 opened the entire wire harness loom up yet. Been slowly tearing the bike apart to access. The process is very intrusive.
I regularly need to walk away as it鈥檚 so frustrating!
 

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Discussion Starter · #5 ·
Would you advise my next step is opening up the entire wiring harness to look for the culprit? Should I start near where I spliced in the extension to relocate the fan circuit breaker? The process is a little overwhelming for me.
it seems that was the one thing I changed before the no start. I doubt that something failed coincidentally elsewhere at the same time.
Thoughts?
 

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Circuit breaker may be solid state and be sensitive to polarity. Try reversing your wires on it before tearing into the loom.
 
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dont go to that extreme just yet.
start with the K.I.S.S method... (Keep It Simple Stupid) :)
remove/check and clean ALL ground connection at the frame w/ wire brush
remove/check and clean ALL battery terminal connections w/ wire brush
retest.
remove connection at distribution block. check/test. also look for pushed out pins.
retest.
 

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Get a voltmeter. Look at electrical schematic in the service manual. move from point to point until you see power. Do NOT get into the wire harness unless you have to
 

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Would you advise my next step is opening up the entire wiring harness to look for the culprit? Should I start near where I spliced in the extension to relocate the fan circuit breaker? The process is a little overwhelming for me.
it seems that was the one thing I changed before the no start. I doubt that something failed coincidentally elsewhere at the same time.
Thoughts?
Dude if you open up that whole wiring loom you could make it worse. I was just pulling at straws about the backwards breaker but you said it ran perfectly fine before it. You had to of done something or pinched a wire while you relocated it. You might have to bite the bullet and take to a power sports mechanic. Good luck man.
 

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Discussion Starter · #11 ·
Thanks all, for your thoughts. I am sure there is a systematic approach to troubleshooting these things.
As stated above it ran fine (apart from no fan) I relocated, and replaced circuit breaker, which now tests fine.
I have cleaned, checked grounds and connections in the vicinity. But that is the only thing I changed prior to the no start. I did remove a piece of plastic loom and some old electrical tape when I spliced into to move the fan circuit breaker. I will start there and see if I knIcked or disturbed something. My last attempt, then I鈥檓 shipping it to the dealership 馃が. I hate letting it beat me, but I鈥檓 over my head.
Thanks again for the ideas.
 

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second thread on same problem?

Check wire continuity of pump ground to chassis.
Contact #4 on on fuel pump harness plug.
Font Line Parallel Rectangle Circle


Check wire continuity of pump 12v to fuse box.
Contact #3 on fuel pump harness plug to contact A4 on fuse box.
Rectangle Handwriting Font Parallel Schematic


Pump relay ground (fuse box contact B4) is controlled by ECM.
Pull connector from ECM (behind drivers seat) and check contacts for corrosion, dirt, or water.
Check continuity between fuse box contact B4, and ECM plug contact 19 (#219).
White Font Line Parallel Pattern



A comment on your first post in this thread:
Key on power should give you TAIL lights.
BRAKE lights should come on with brake pedal being depressed.

2011 RZR 800
key to position 1, and . . . . Break lights are on.

And after re-reading first post, is the battery fully charged?
Engaging starter with low battery, may pull voltage down till relay drops out.
Relay drops out, disabling starter circuit . . voltage rises . . Relay pulls in engaging starter . . . Relay drops out . . .
Hence buzzing sound.
 
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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
To clarify, tail light come on with the key, brake lights when pedal is pressed. Battery is good, I put charger on it as well, but shows 12.78v and load tests good as well. I apologize for the鈥漝ouble thread鈥 , I鈥檓 also new to forums馃え. As far as tracing wires and testing continuity etc, I may be over my head. Neither my eyesight or my patience can handle much more. I think I am going to bite the bullet and send it to a shop.
 

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At least you honestly know when you鈥檙e over your head. Good for you. Let us know what you find out
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
674628


Well, I conceded! It beat me! I am sure this has to be something simple. I left the skid plate, and plastics off, to hopefully save on some labor. I hope the dealership doesn鈥檛 rape me too badly! But I am sure it will be cheaper than the sledgehammer approach I have been contemplating!!
I will be sure to post the outcome when the find a solution. Although they may not get it inside for a week!
Stay tuned.
 

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View attachment 674628

Well, I conceded! It beat me! I am sure this has to be something simple. I left the skid plate, and plastics off, to hopefully save on some labor. I hope the dealership doesn鈥檛 rape me too badly! But I am sure it will be cheaper than the sledgehammer approach I have been contemplating!!
I will be sure to post the outcome when the find a solution. Although they may not get it inside for a week!
Stay tuned.
Good luck. A week that's super fast for a Polaris dealer. By me your lucky if you get it back after 2 months.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Here is an update: after 2 weeks at dealership I got a call today. Said they have put over four hours into diagnosing already and gotten no where. She said I do have 12volts at the fan circuit breaker now! Which I had when I brought it there! I had stripped most plastic/skid plate etc, and included a typed chronology of everything I have already checked.
she tells me they think I need a whole new wire harness ( $1000 part) or the ECU.
they say their diagnostic tool is not reading the bike at all.
I am going in to talk to the mechanic tomorrow, but kinda feel I鈥檓 getting screwed!
 

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Here is an update: after 2 weeks at dealership I got a call today. Said they have put over four hours into diagnosing already and gotten no where. She said I do have 12volts at the fan circuit breaker now! Which I had when I brought it there! I had stripped most plastic/skid plate etc, and included a typed chronology of everything I have already checked.
she tells me they think I need a whole new wire harness ( $1000 part) or the ECU.
they say their diagnostic tool is not reading the bike at all.
I am going in to talk to the mechanic tomorrow, but kinda feel I鈥檓 getting screwed!
Oh god. Sounds like typical polaris dealer scams to me. See all they do is throw parts at it instead of troubleshooting. I swear they pick people up from Wal-Mart to work as mechanics at a Polaris dealership. Well it's your call cause i would say you are getting screwed. They are gonna replace the entire wiring harness that's is big time dealer pay day. Unreal
 

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ECU is a 400$ plus part right there. The dealer is that deep already in labor. Man.....i feel for you. You were just relocating two wire's? How did it turn into this? Wow......sucks man. Good luck.
 
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