Feel up under dash, find the plug in for the RC head and push to make sure it is well connected. Usually loose connections cause your problem. Worse case, remove hood and dash to gain access.

 

I can see the connections in the back of ride command, do you know which one is for dynamix?

 

The big one pushes on. Easy to come loose.

 

Seems like theres two rows of connectors. The biggest one I can tell is passenger side bottom row without taking the dash apart. Cant tell what the upper row looks like.

 

No experience with the pro setup. Might be smart to look under the dash. Should come apart easy. Then you will know for sure. Other wise push everything on tight.

 

I found under All Settings > Vehicle > Diagnostics it had an error code for u102c: steering wheel control suspension mode. Then I tried to play music and play pause, volume but none of these worked either. Surprised I couldnt just test dynamix without the wheel buttons.

Hard to see the connections though without taking apart the dash.

 

If not the connection on back then probably back to dealer.

 

The power steering cuts out after so many minutes of sitting with key on. Recycle and see if code clears.

 

Posted in the wrong thread?

 

No! You have a steering wheel control suspension code. Sounds like it timed out.

 

I was trying out the X button more than I have in the past. Maybe it thinks one of the buttons is stuck closed. I disconnected the cable from the steering wheel and reseated. Didnt seem to resolve. Its a dreadful day to let it sit at a dealership.

 

You can check the switch with a volt meter.

 

I pulled the center plastic piece off the steering wheel that says RZR and it showed two connections To the left and right buttons on the steering wheel with a third connection to nothing. I spun the wheel around and noticed through a hole the other connector. I was able to grab the connector, get it reconnected and then it worked. It seems like when you turn the wheel all the way to the left it sucks in the cable, when turning right it pushes a little bit of the cable out. This connector does lock so Im wondering if it could cause the wires to pull out of the connectors one day.

Was glad I could fix it without taking it in over something so simple.

 

Good job. May not have been pushed on all the way. Good find and fix.

 

Mine did the exact same thing. Thanks for posting this! And like sandblster said good find!

 

Okay, update. Thanks again for the find but mine did pull out of the connector, one wire. My opinion all of them need to be longer and I'll have to find a way to either get another connector or make this one work? But how much wire is too much wire?

 

Hey same issue here the yellow wire came out . What did you end up doing to getting it back In there. Thanks!

 

So I had the issue again.

This time I noticed a lot of error codes under Vehicle diagnostics. It happens when you turn all the way left as it sucks the cable all the way in. If you center the wheel or to the right, a good portion of the cable will come out of the hole. But as you turn left the whole cable and the connector start to pull into the hole. If the connector is too far in the hole, it causes the wheel to not rotate. After testing it out a few times, I think the issue will happen again in the future. Maybe holding the connector piece with hot glue to avoid pulling on the wires might help? Dealership said they never heard of this issue.

Sometimes when the wires get pulled it turns EPS off.

I also had to replace the cap on the steering wheel and I tried to be very careful this time but the tab breaks.

 

My local repair shop (not a Polaris dealer) repaired mine, now the wire doesn't move at all. Looks to a much better fix than factory. I'll post pictures when I get home.

 

Please post the pictures when you can. Thanks.

 

I had a EPS code over the weekend and saw this thread so I checked out the connector in question. Comparing mine to the picture from Poolman, it appears they've made a change.

 

I had a EPS code over the weekend and saw this thread so I checked out the connector in question. Comparing mine to the picture from Poolman, it appears they've made a change.
View attachment 660967

Interesting. That white connector and the wire gets sucked into the hole.

 

Mines in the shop getting a heater installed as soon as it gets out I'll post some pictures. Mine doesn't move now. To me the fix is better than factory

 

Well, though it was better but its not. 15 minutes of riding it came apart......... so back to the factory harness.

 

It's the harness. I'm going to see if I can get one like AV Guy

 

Finally figured out why my PXP4U keeps popping the 5A INST ACCY fuse. I caught it happening when I cranked the steering wheel full left. Yep, there’s a wire dangling off that P2 connector down in the tube. I can see it when I crank it full right and get slack.
Any success on upgraded cabling, Poolman?
I guess I’m still under warranty with the clutch recall warranty extension. Huge relief that the turn signal/hazard kit, horn, cool cab kit and particle separator I installed while waiting for new clutch, weren’t the cause of my intermittent short.

 

My buddy works on radios for a railroad company and he had some really small butt connectors. We added an inch or so if wire and I haven't had any issues in about 200 mile. Hope that helps.

 

Thanks, I could add wire easily enough but getting the steering wheel off is the bugger.
Did you use a special puller or 2 bolts thru threaded holes? (One of these forums threads had stripped out holes/drill & tap etc. for stuck wheels). I’ll see what the dealer says before I wreck something. Also, how much more wire gets exposed with the wheel off?
Thanks again everyone for all the info and documented problems on these forums. Wiring diagrams I downloaded pointed me to steering wheel wiring and I remembered reading this thread...bingo! Twenty two years fixing mail processing machines and the intermittent problems were the worst.

 

I tried to pull the steering wheel off at first. Wasn't moving and I was scared to put a puller on it. So I put locktight back on it and snugged it up. You can turn the wheel all the way ( I think to the left) and it will give you plenty of wire to make a splice. But pull the cover off and see which way the wheel is pulling in or out.

 

Hard right gave me the most slack but the wire broke about an inch down the hole from the connector. This is the most slack I have

 

Man.... that's going to be tough or you'll have to pull the wheel.