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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hello, I am new to the forum but need some help with my wife's 2008 Polaris RZR 800. Yes, I am still in trouble for letting someone drive my wife's toy. Here's the situation: One of my firends basically drove it into a 3' washout on the driver side. He decided to keep going and it turned into a 6' washout and the rzr was completely on its side with all the weight supported by the front and rear driver side tires.

After getting it back to the garage, the front driver tire was mis aligned by 3" kicked out to the left. Took it into the shop. They replaced both side lower control arms. Gave it back and the top of the front wheel was cambered in 3" at the top but the wheel was striaght. Took it back and they then tried to sell me a new frame as they claim the frame is tweaked. Of course, they could not show me any proof or evidence of this but just said I had to live with the tire like this. Lesson learned...never tell the shop how the damage happened!

I brought it home and tore the driver side wheel apart. Measured and inspected everything...still can't find any evidence to support a tweaked frame. Replaced the wheel bearing and both ball joints. Inspected all wheel components. Put it back together and it is better but the tire is still cambered in by 1.25" at the top. Passenger side wheel is perfect. Looking at the front of the RZR it looks ok, but you if you look from the back and down the side, it is evident that the wheel is chambered in.

I noticed when I push the suspension up and down it seems to effect the camber some. Sometimes looks better and sometimes worse.

My question is can the Shock or shock springs effect the camber? Both sides are adjusted the same and seem to measureout the same. I am running out of things to check to correct this issue. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.
 

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Well, I guess you should pull all the wheels off and set it on some identicle blocks on the main part of the frame and start measuring from all your pivot points on both sides to see is the frame is tweeked.
 

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I just replace my a arms with 1.5 forward a arms from Super ATV. The new a arms have a "true" camber adjustment. This may prove to be an economical fix. Less than $200. Takes about 1/2 day to install them. I had to get them to send tie rod extenders , i run 27' bighorns.

Have you checked out the shocks and springs?
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
So the a-arms have top and bottom camber adjusters or is this just for an upper or lower? I think that will fix my issue.

Any idea how much adjustment playroom you have? I think I need close to 1" (i.e. to pull the top out).

Thanks again for everyone's help.
 

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So the a-arms have top and bottom camber adjusters or is this just for an upper or lower? I think that will fix my issue.

Any idea how much adjustment playroom you have? I think I need close to 1" (i.e. to pull the top out).

Thanks again for everyone's help.
The upper a arm has allows for a camber adjustment, you should be able to get the adjustment you need. I will post a picture later today.
 

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Upper A-arm camber adjuster???? That would be news to me. A stock A-arm has a fixed pivot point inboard and outboard. If it had Heim joints on the inboard pivots or in place of the outboard, them adjustment would be possible but as presented stock, I don't see how that would be accomplished. Please edjamacate me BBU.

To the OP....Starting outboard to inboard...

Broken Hub?

Blown out bearing?

Damaged bearing carrier?

Damaged ball joints?

Bent A-arms?

If all of these are OK, then you likely have a bent frame. If this is the case (confirmed by measurements) I would not write it off as these frames can be bent/cut/re-welded and repaired and would be much cheaper/easier than replaced.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
I found the problem.

On the left side where it attaches I see a slight bend in the mounting point. On the right side, the mounting point only attaches to a bar with no bracing (as seen in most other pictures. It looks straight, but my guess is that it is pushed in 1/4 inch which would cause the left side to have a bend. This bar only mounts to the top and bottom of the frame but the a-arm attaches to the middle of it.

In addition, I measured on the hub and it seems it is off by 1/4 inch. If
I remember correctly, a quarter inch at the center of an object gets greater as you go out. So, to the top of the wheel is 8-9 inches out which I think would account for the 1-1.5 inches inward camber based on some crude match and playing with a level.

Should the Super ATV adjustable a-arms fix this issue or do I need to figure out how to bend the bar back out?
 

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seems to me, that if your assumptions are correct, both front wheels would be out of whack. Is the passenger wheel cambered outward?
The problem with bending metal, is that it creates a weak point where the metal is stretched.
A frame shop may be your best bet. With the proper tools, I would think the frame should be able to be tweaked back into shape.
I have the identical problem, so I'm interested in your outcome. The forward a arms may work, but it would be a band aid fix.
 

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^^^Like Wayne said, adjustable A-arms "would be a band-aid fix". Don't put paint over rust; have your frame straightened.
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
Passenger wheel is fine and not cambered out. This issue is only effected on the driver side wheel. My ex-friend who rode it into the washout had all the weight on the driver side front and rear wheel. No impact to the passenger side (as it was up in the air). It seems if I can get the Super ATV a-arms that adjust out, then maybe everything will be ok. I need about an inch to make it work and Super ATV rep said their a-arm would adjust much more than that. I agree, bending back in place will just make it weaker. I just don't think I need to spend $1200+ on a frame when this issue is isolated. I appreciate everyone's comments.
 
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