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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hey everyone I raced my RZR this last weekend and while I was going down the front straight I heard what sounded to be teeth being sheared off of a gear. My Wife says a huge plume of smoke came out then a loud bang. I thought it had jumped out of gear so I pulled back on the shifter but it was in gear. It would not go in forward or reverse. So I loaded it up and brought it home. I was certain I had exploded the transmission. After looking at several posts on here I decided to take a look at the belt. I pulled off the snorkel and a huge amount of what looked like charcoal fell out of the snorkel. I looked down the hole and the belt was obviously gone. I haven't taken it apart yet but I did get a replacement OEM belt. My question is with me running TT with this thing can I expect the same thing from this new belt due to having stock cluthing? Should I replace the clutching and install an extreme duty belt? I am concerned I will continue to have this issue. Thanks
 

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You need to clean it out real good with compressed air if you have it.You should use a EPI belt they are 10x better then stock they cost about $130.I doubt you will ever break the belt.I have wore 3 of them out and never broke one.I also have a turbo so I go through belts a little quicker.
 

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What is "TT"? Time Trials?

heat makes belts fail.
Do what you can to get more cool air into your clutch and hot air out.
If you are running in the desert cut some holes in the clutch cover. You can't do this if you are doing water crossings above the skid plate.

With my stage 1 turbo I blew a stock belt in 100 miles. The EPI severe duty belts were lasting about 600 miles.
 

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Discussion Starter #4
You need to clean it out real good with compressed air if you have it.You should use a EPI belt they are 10x better then stock they cost about $130.I doubt you will ever break the belt.I have wore 3 of them out and never broke one.
Yeah I have an air compressor i can blow it all out with. Thats the belt I was looking at. But do I need to use a beefed up clutch. To keep the slipping to a minimum? In and out of these corners I think is creating alot of heat back there. This machine only has 20 hours on it.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
What is "TT"? Time Trials?

heat makes belts fail.
Do what you can to get more cool air into your clutch and hot air out.
If you are running in the desert cut some holes in the clutch cover. You can't do this if you are doing water crossings above the skid plate.

With my stage 1 turbo I blew a stock belt in 100 miles. The EPI severe duty belts were lasting about 600 miles.
TT racing is Dirt track racing with left and right hand turns and smaller jumps. We have 6 regular guys all friends and highly competitive. Yeah there must be alot of heat back there cause this thing was smoked to a crisp. And it blew to pieces.

Nice to hear that EPI lasts that long with the turbo. I shouldn't be able to hurt it then.

Thanks
 

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You dont need to do anything to the clutch to run this belt.You need to scotch brite the clutch sheaths and clean them with alcohol or brake cleaner also.Look at tuf skins links to changing the belt for good tips.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
You dont need to do anything to the clutch to run this belt.You need to scotch brite the clutch sheaths and clean them with alcohol or brake cleaner also.Look at tuf skins links to changing the belt for good tips.
Thanks for the tips. I just assumed the way I am driving it is causing this issue. But If I am not gaining anything then no need to spend the money. I watched a video on how to change it. It looks simple enough.
 

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The clutch does have wear items that will need to be replaced eventually.
If you overheated it, the buttons might have melted a little (#10).
The washers on each side of the main bearing are also known for dissintegrating when you blow a belt (#2):

 

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Discussion Starter #9
The clutch does have wear items that will need to be replaced eventually.
If you overheated it, the buttons might have melted a little (#10).
The washers on each side of the main bearing are also known for dissintegrating when you blow a belt (#2):

Thanks Man. I got it apart and there was nothing left of the belt. Except shrapnel. I did notice at least one of the nylon washers laying in the bottom of the heap of debris. I will get those ordered up tomorrow. I tried a new OEM belt back on it after blowing it out real well and hitting it with a little scotch brite. Everything seems fine. I pulled the belt back off and will be ordering the EPI belt in the morning. Still not sure if I should go ahead and get the clutch kit to get me off the corners a little faster. But at least I will be ready for the next round. Thanks for the great advice everyone.
 

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you might also want to check the bearing. take the belt off and make sure the bearing is easy to spin with your hand.
The bearing and washers next to it require removal of the spider to replace. special tools and high torque, so you might want to have a dealer do that part for you.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Yeah I checked the bearing and it spins free. I did see it takes a special puller to remove the assembly. I will be ordering it tomorrow as well. I think I have everything else to get the job done. I was an automatic transmission re builder for 9 years and have aquired about every tool possible. LOL

I race dirt late model cars also and have had racing transmissions blow up and when that belt came off it sounded just like that. So I was a little concerned when I heard it. Never thought a piece of hard rubber could make such a racket. Really surprised it didn't blow a hole in the plastic cover.
 

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ya, one thing I liked about the EPI belt was that I never had one shred.
I have had chunks delaminate on the outside and come off, but was still able to drive back to the trailer.
the stock belt just turns into spaghetti and you have to dig it out of the primary and secondary...




 

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Discussion Starter #14
ya, one thing I liked about the EPI belt was that I never had one shred.
I have had chunks delaminate on the outside and come off, but was still able to drive back to the trailer.
the stock belt just turns into spaghetti and you have to dig it out of the primary and secondary...




Hey did you sneak into my garage because thats exactly what mine looked like. My only issue is how did it get so hot? Mine is basically stock. Only thing I can figure is taking so many corners and getting in and out of the gas must heat it up bad. Not sure how to fix that.
 

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a vent between the seats to get more cool air into the clutch is worth a try.
a few supporting vendors sell them.
 

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Like Cliff said, if your going to be racing cut several holes in the top of the clutch cover. I know he has some pics of his that he will post:ride:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Like Cliff said, if your going to be racing cut several holes in the top of the clutch cover. I know he has some pics of his that he will post:ride:
I will order a replacement cover tomorrow and cut the holes in it. I still trail ride this thing so I want to be able to keep it covered when I am doing that. Thanks for the pics and the advice.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
you might also want to check the bearing. take the belt off and make sure the bearing is easy to spin with your hand.
The bearing and washers next to it require removal of the spider to replace. special tools and high torque, so you might want to have a dealer do that part for you.
Hey what is the best stuff to use to lubricate that bearing? Something that wont fling off at high RPM's and get on the Halves or belt? Or do you need to lubricate it at all?
 
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