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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
This is a follow up to a thread I'd started some time ago complaining about the cost of aftermarket exhausts. I'd made some decisions and bought some parts way back then, but elected to do various other projects and fixes first. A few side comments:

1) Now that Mike/AA has his exhaust, and it's under $500 (perhaps a forum discount might help too!!), I feel less aggrieved than I did over the $800 kits from Gibson, FMF, and etc... But how loud is it? For at least me, this matters. Lots. As it should you.

2) The muffler I used a polished stainless steel Dynomax 17266, has been discontinued. Shame, it's great to look at and I'd like the dual exhaust look (think of this as a quieter DIY Gibson). There are some in distribution still though, so for those that want them move quick. These are reputed to be their second quietest line (right behind their turbo muffler) too. More importantly, they fit in the space available perfectly. Sounds close enough to stock to not attract attention. It also flows 573 CFM, so good to at least 260 hp.

3) Another option is the Dynomax Super Turbo 17749. This is aluminized steel, and at 20" is a bit wide. It can work, but you're going to have to hang it an inch or so lower to clear the rear bumper mounts. It flows 425 cfm so good to 193 hp with no loss at all, and to 200 with only 1 hp loss. Note the upper end of an AA stage 3 tune is 25 hp, so a perfect flow fit, it's the quietest option, and it's a lot cheaper. (look below).


Moving on to parts needed:

1) Dynomax's rep makes them the muffler of choice. They are generally seen as the quietest /best tone, and the only company that openly tests and shares their flow and HP ratings. If you move away from either choice I suggest Magnaflow, but I'd be wary of HP claims. It would be easy to do a lot of work and gain no HP.

2) You can re-use the factory Poo spark arrestor. If dual exhaust just order an exact replacement for the "other" exhaust side and you're forest legal. That's Polaris # 1262390 and is $40 at retail.

3) You will need mandrel bent intake and exhaust elbows. The following will work and be inexpensize. Stainless will probably triple the cost. Your call. You'll want two. Cut one exactly in half and it will be your two exhaust flanges. Cut the other at roughly 110 degree to be your intake side (It's actually steeper than 90 degree's). Use the remainder for a "turn up" to get it level with the exhaust (you'll see). Cherry Bomb Mandrel Bends 320466CB. Or just angle the new bracket. Which is what I did. Look closely at the pics later on.

4) You'll need an exhaust flange. Mike/AA sells them right on this website for $35 dollars plus shipping.

So all in you should be anywhere from $145 in parts (and shipping) to $360 in parts. If you can Tig, great. If not, well, that's going to be a few hundred more. Or so, depending on your resources.

Muffler ($60-175)
Flange ($45)
Bends ($40 -100) (Stock appears to be 3.5" bend radius, and it will be hard to use more. At the same time, I've got 3.75" coming, so...)
SA ($0-40)
Welding ($$) ?

Here are my actual costs, including tax, labor, and shipping.

Muffler: $162 (#17266)
Flange: $ 43
Bends: $ 70 ( I went stainless)
SA: $ 40 (second spark arrestor)
Welding: $150 ( I can't TIG)
Project Cost: $465.

On the other hand, for no performance difference:
Muffler: $ 60 (#17749)
Flange: $ 43 (shipping will vary)
Bends: $ 40 (aluminized steel)
SA: $ 0 (single exhaust, re-use stock)
Welding:$ 0 - $100) Can you weld? well enough?

Projected cost: $143 - $243
(note less welding on the 17749. When you drop it down the intake bent is simple, and you only have one exhaust side weld to make, so less time - less $$)

For the dollar should I have just bought Mike/AA's? Probably. Mine certainly looks, in my mind, better, (I like the duals on each side), and will sound and look close to factory. I also know I have zero HP loss. I'm hopeful most, and all DNR, think it's OEM factory.

Pics coming soon.
 

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I did the same thing but went with a Magnaflow muffler .... at idle it sounds about the same as a stock muffler under load or throttle it is noticeable and sounds deeper


Sent from my iPhone using RZRForums.net
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Great feedback!! Thanks for helping the thread. Can you tell us which muffler you used? Where did you source the flanges and elbows from? Did you use 3.5" bend radius, or something more easily available?

Pics?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I've decided to send the pretty stainless steel 17266 back. Quiet and simple win the day. I'm going to order the 17748 and 17749. If my welder can make 17749 fit (the intake is offsett I expect it to flow better and be quieter both. If not the 17748 should be an easy build.
 

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A guy in our riding group made his on the Magnaflow and it sounds great. A little louder than stock but not much, mostly a deeper tone. I have the AA muffler and if I was to do it again I would go with the Magnaflow
 

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Discussion Starter #7
That's great input Max! Thanks! What do you like better about the Magnaflow vs the AA muffler? I'm sort of thinking the AA might be loud.

Thanks Strange!

All:
The Maganflow version of what I used, so I could have duals split to each side, is part number "12265". If you can get the Dynomax I would, but if you can't and want the look there's another brand / part # that would work. Meanwhile the easiest/cheapest one to use is what Strange Famous used.

I suppose I should mention I did not spend the time/money to put the tabs on for the rear heat shield. With no cat I hope it's not so hot. and the clearance seems to be fine. Time will tell.

There is a cost to using split-to-each-side duals. You lose the top intake side bracket for the factory rear black valance. I'll come up with something on my own. I'm thinking a U shaped bracket at the moment,

My first reaction on hearing it was "oh good, not loud enough to be objectionable". My second, the moment I pulled it out of the shop was "well what do you know, now I hear the turbo whine spooling up". Which I sort of think is nice to hear.
 

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I just liked the tone better deeper and overall not as loud as the AA. When I install one cap / plug on the AA then they are similar ....Oh yeah I also like the price of the MagnaFlow as compared to 400+ for the AA
 

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This is a follow up to a thread I'd started some time ago complaining about the cost of aftermarket exhausts. I'd made some decisions and bought some parts way back then, but elected to do various other projects and fixes first. A few side comments:

1) Now that Mike/AA has his exhaust, and it's under $500 (perhaps a forum discount might help too!!), I feel less aggrieved than I did over the $800 kits from Gibson, FMF, and etc... But how loud is it? For at least me, this matters. Lots. As it should you.

2) The muffler I used a polished stainless steel Dynomax 17266, has been discontinued. Shame, it's great to look at and I'd like the dual exhaust look (think of this as a quieter DIY Gibson). There are some in distribution still though, so for those that want them move quick. These are reputed to be their second quietest line (right behind their turbo muffler) too. More importantly, they fit in the space available perfectly. Sounds close enough to stock to not attract attention. It also flows 573 CFM, so good to at least 260 hp.

3) Another option is the Dynomax Super Turbo 17749. This is aluminized steel, and at 20" is a bit wide. It can work, but you're going to have to hang it an inch or so lower to clear the rear bumper mounts. It flows 425 cfm so good to 193 hp with no loss at all, and to 200 with only 1 hp loss. Note the upper end of an AA stage 3 tune is 25 hp, so a perfect flow fit, it's the quietest option, and it's a lot cheaper. (look below).


Moving on to parts needed:

1) Dynomax's rep makes them the muffler of choice. They are generally seen as the quietest /best tone, and the only company that openly tests and shares their flow and HP ratings. If you move away from either choice I suggest Magnaflow, but I'd be wary of HP claims. It would be easy to do a lot of work and gain no HP.

2) You can re-use the factory Poo spark arrestor. If dual exhaust just order an exact replacement for the "other" exhaust side and you're forest legal. That's Polaris # 1262390 and is $40 at retail.

3) You will need mandrel bent intake and exhaust elbows. The following will work and be inexpensize. Stainless will probably triple the cost. Your call. You'll want two. Cut one exactly in half and it will be your two exhaust flanges. Cut the other at roughly 110 degree to be your intake side (It's actually steeper than 90 degree's). Use the remainder for a "turn up" to get it level with the exhaust (you'll see). Cherry Bomb Mandrel Bends 320466CB. Or just angle the new bracket. Which is what I did. Look closely at the pics later on.

4) You'll need an exhaust flange. Mike/AA sells them right on this website for $35 dollars plus shipping.

So all in you should be anywhere from $145 in parts (and shipping) to $360 in parts. If you can Tig, great. If not, well, that's going to be a few hundred more. Or so, depending on your resources.

Muffler ($60-175)
Flange ($45)
Bends ($40 -100) (Stock appears to be 3.5" bend radius, and it will be hard to use more. At the same time, I've got 3.75" coming, so...)
SA ($0-40)
Welding ($$) ?

Here are my actual costs, including tax, labor, and shipping.

Muffler: $162 (#17266)
Flange: $ 43
Bends: $ 70 ( I went stainless)
SA: $ 40 (second spark arrestor)
Welding: $150 ( I can't TIG)
Project Cost: $465.

On the other hand, for no performance difference:
Muffler: $ 60 (#17749)
Flange: $ 43 (shipping will vary)
Bends: $ 40 (aluminized steel)
SA: $ 0 (single exhaust, re-use stock)
Welding:$ 0 - $100) Can you weld? well enough?

Projected cost: $143 - $243
(note less welding on the 17749. When you drop it down the intake bent is simple, and you only have one exhaust side weld to make, so less time - less $$)

For the dollar should I have just bought Mike/AA's? Probably. Mine certainly looks, in my mind, better, (I like the duals on each side), and will sound and look close to factory. I also know I have zero HP loss. I'm hopeful most, and all DNR, think it's OEM factory.

Pics coming soon.

Do you have any pics yet?
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
I do. Youtube video's actually. I'd forgotten I'd not loaded them. Sorry about that. Here are two of three. I'm stuck waiting on a bracket to do #3.



Having spent a little time with this, if it's not stock sound level, or perhaps even quieter, I'd be shocked. It's just not loud in any way. It does seem to be a bit deeper toned, and all in all it sounds great. Only somebody really looking and really really aware of RZR's is going to notice this isn't a shiny stock muffler.

All in all this is a big win. Mind you it's of no value unless you have a turbo, and a cat gutted stock muffler will identical until something like 200hp or so.
 

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Discussion Starter #13
 

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Discussion Starter #15
Howdy Max! Hearing it... well... At this moment it has no oil in it or an oil filter on it.. Soon lets hope. Then I'll do a video, run the SAE J1287 test on it and post the results. Much later I'll be recording it next to a stock turbo so we have a baseline.

A disclaimer though. I did a video of my VMax when I put some delk's on it. You really just can't tell much about sound from an iPhone vidoe posted to Youtube. And short of the listener have a Db meter and audio scope, how can we expect to know how loud to play it back? (That's a semi serious question. I'm still looking for a common protracted loud sound we can all use as a common baseline).

Meanwhile, here's another video...
 

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Discussion Starter #16 (Edited)
OK, so I forget to add the video. And yea, I can only edit 7 posts a week. Right, that'll work out.

So yea, I can't correct the previous post. Here's the missing one and two more.




So, all that's left is a sound clip.

And yea, I need to learn to weld better. Or at all. But I got it done, and it appears to be solid. I must have accidentally heat treated the mild stee, because drilling that last hole sucked.

BTW, the last hole was drilled .196" and then tapped to 6mmx1.0 (stock hardware).

The thing is going to look so factory I don't think any DNR or forest service guy is ever going to know. It sounds maybe a tiny bit deeper, but certainly not enough louder to be suspicious, and I've both SA's on it now.

Oddly, it's actually quieter sounding as soon as the RPM comes up even a little.
 

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I just ordered parts to do my own exhaust, thanks dafish for posting all your findings and documenting them! I went with a Borla 40364.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Here is the final clip on this project. I'd promised an audio clip. I've had it for a week or so, but have been otherwise occupied. Here you go!


Luck to all!

-d
 

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For the SAE J1287 sound test what did you use for a DB meter and what rpm did you perform the test at? Also what kind of level did you get with weight A measurement during the test and did you also do the same measurements in the cab as well?

I am going to start a project in ths next month on a exhaust system and have a calibrated mic that I plan to take my measurements with both for SAE J1287 and at the drivers seat and planned to go in 1000 rpm steps in both positions in cab and 10 feet away to try and give a good mix of information.
 
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