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How did you even install it like that? If it hung up and wouldn't disengage it should have been engaged from the get go..you would have had to crank the spring down with the cover bolts and as soon as you started the engine it should have been moving..
 

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Yep, thats what was kinda hard to figure out about this. When I assembled everything the first time, I installed it and started the buggy. Everything looked good, primary was free spining, no issues. So I put the plastic clutch cover on and went for a spin around the block. I really didnt notice the clutch sticking while driving as I never slowed down enough. It wasnt until I got back to the house and tried to stop that I noticed that the clutch was not disengaging.

So I took the plastic clutch cover back off. It was obvious the clutch was not back to neutral as the belt was still tight. I gave the primary a good pull outward, wala the belt tension released. I never felt it move when I pulled it, so it had to be the slightest amount that was needed to disengage the tension on the belt. I started it up again, same as before, it would sit and free spin like normal in park. I then jacked it up and put it on stands and got in. I ran it up to about 30 mph (probably not the smartest idea on stands). Hit the brakes to stop it and same as before, the clutch would not disengage and I stalled the engine. So I knew at this point something was not allowing the moveable sheave to move all the way back to neutral after it have been compressed. I removed the primary and disassembled. This is when I noticed the small gouges in the spider from the weight retaining bolts on the heel of the flyweights. All three looked pretty much the same. So I removed one washer from each heel. This brought the weight retaining bolt in enough to clear the area that it had been hitting. I should have snapped a few pics to be able to explain this better. Reinstalled everything, and went for a spin. Everything worked perfectly.

My guess is that when I assembled it the first time I was able to tighten the primary cover bolts to pull the spider past this slight "stickage" point, this allowed the clutch to operate like normal just sittting. When I went to drive it, the clutch action pushed through his "stickage" the other way. And when I went to stop, the spring tension alone wasnt enough to bring the assembly back passed this "stickage" point, hence the belt stayed engaged. Like you, I wouldnt have thought this would have been possible unless I saw it with my own eyes.

I guess the silver lining about this project is that I now have alot better understanding of how the every piece of the clutch works.
 
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That makes sense. Sounds like you had a pretty good grasp on how the clutching works before this, now maybe even more knowledge lol.
Have you talked to Dale about this? Like I said mine had 2 tungstens which puts the weights/ bolt inside the arm and clearance isn't an issue. I'm sure he would appreciate a call..he is a great guy and anyone can make a mistake...but not common.. maybe you got the wrong kit or something.


BTW..I've ran mine on stands way faster than 30 lol..no biggie..what IS safe? Now sitting on a jack..that would be questionable lol
Yep, thats what was kinda hard to figure out about this. When I assembled everything the first time, I installed it and started the buggy. Everything looked good, primary was free spining, no issues. So I put the plastic clutch cover on and went for a spin around the block. I really didnt notice the clutch sticking while driving as I never slowed down enough. It wasnt until I got back to the house and tried to stop that I noticed that the clutch was not disengaging.

So I took the plastic clutch cover back off. It was obvious the clutch was not back to neutral as the belt was still tight. I gave the primary a good pull outward, wala the belt tension released. I never felt it move when I pulled it, so it had to be the slightest amount that was needed to disengage the tension on the belt. I started it up again, same as before, it would sit and free spin like normal in park. I then jacked it up and put it on stands and got in. I ran it up to about 30 mph (probably not the smartest idea on stands). Hit the brakes to stop it and same as before, the clutch would not disengage and I stalled the engine. So I knew at this point something was not allowing the moveable sheave to move all the way back to neutral after it have been compressed. I removed the primary and disassembled. This is when I noticed the small gouges in the spider from the weight retaining bolts on the heel of the flyweights. All three looked pretty much the same. So I removed one washer from each heel. This brought the weight retaining bolt in enough to clear the area that it had been hitting. I should have snapped a few pics to be able to explain this better. Reinstalled everything, and went for a spin. Everything worked perfectly.

My guess is that when I assembled it the first time I was able to tighten the primary cover bolts to pull the spider past this slight "stickage" point, this allowed the clutch to operate like normal just sittting. When I went to drive it, the clutch action pushed through his "stickage" the other way. And when I went to stop, the spring tension alone wasnt enough to bring the assembly back passed this "stickage" point, hence the belt stayed engaged. Like you, I wouldnt have thought this would have been possible unless I saw it with my own eyes.

I guess the silver lining about this project is that I now have alot better understanding of how the every piece of the clutch works.
 

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I plan on calling him tomorrow, but wanted to see what others had received in terms of installed weight.

Im assuming he was trying to tune for my weight additions we discussed over the phone (heavy cage, doors, bigger wheels/tires, UTV gusset kit, normally 2 riders), hence the reason I got 3 weights installed instead of 2. Maybe he thought it needed it, but had not actually tested to see if 3 would fit during his testing.

Either way, the clutch works well on the street. Cant wait to get it on the track to see what it feels like.
 

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I want to get one too. Seems the best way for acceleration to get that holeshot and come out of corners. How has reliability been for those who have had it so far? No unormal wear on drivetrain/ motor?

I feel stupid buyin the warranty for my xp since ive pretty much voided it all lol.

might as well order mine too.
 

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How the back shift? I love the idea of the adjustable weights, just kind of clueless at understanding if I'm achieving anything when I'm adjusting? If I'm mostly concerned with bottom end (needed for the sticky mud), how would I go about seeing if I achieved anything?


**edit**
Considering getting your kit just wondering if you give a forum discount? I have a kind of complex list for the clutch at least I think it is. My next day off I’ll try giving you a call and see what we can come up with.
 

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Dirty Dawg Dale
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Discussion Starter #77
The best thing would be to call me so we can go over a few things about both your guys set ups. 763-228-4345 Thanks Dale!
 

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Lot a good info here. Think I'm gonna go with this DDP clutch kit. I just put 28" Mongrels with 14" STI Beadlocks on my XP4 900. I really didnt notice a power loss with the bigger tires but I'm sure this kit will help with belt life...


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