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Whats the price on these?
Looked on the website and it doesn't have anything listed for the xp.
Honesty I don't recall exactly what Dale told me $350 maybe? It comes with a Helix, both Springs and Adjustable weights. Does that sound right Texasrzrrider?
 

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We are going to test chill720s xp on dirt tomorrow.. on pavement it spins the tires from a dead stop and no engine braking is so nice!!! i have not checked the rpms yet but HIGHOCTANE do i need the shift out to be as close to 8250 rpms??? and to you other guys i found out that you do not need to pull the primary clutch off the change the spring and the weights.. FYI, but you do have to have some type of spring compressor for the secondary.. im just glad we are friends with our dealer which is 4 miles down the road so i just walk in the back and go to work with THEIR tools!!!
 
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We are going to test chill720s xp on dirt tomorrow.. on pavement it spins the tires from a dead stop and no engine braking is so nice!!! i have not checked the rpms yet but HIGHOCTANE do i need the shift out to be as close to 8250 rpms??? and to you other guys i found out that you do not need to pull the primary clutch off the change the spring and the weights.. FYI, but you do have to have some type of spring compressor for the secondary.. im just glad we are friends with our dealer which is 4 miles down the road so i just walk in the back and go to work with THEIR tools!!!
Yes I would tune the shiftout to 8200 or so..assuming the stock tach is accurate. If you have something like a g-tech or Dynolicious it wouldn't hurt to compare runs to verify perdormance.
That is correct, I mentioned it before... To change the primary spring and weights you just need to remove the bolt and the cover. The secondary has to come off...no puller is needed usually..it is a non-tapered spline shaft. You do need a secondary spring compressor and a good pair of snap ring pliers..I made my own secondary spring compressor out of a lag bolt, nue, fender washers and old 3" hole saw( cut a hole in the side to access the snap ring and groumd the teeth off)
 
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I just ordered a kit from Dale. The adjustable weights (and Dale's likable personality lol) sold me.
 
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I just ordered a kit from Dale. The adjustable weights (and Dale's likable personality lol) sold me.
good deal..keep us posted..:popcorn::popcorn:
Will do. Like I said Dale basically said the kit is mostly for drivability..i'll still probably make some before and after runs on the Dynolicious just to see the difference if any in acceleration...and depending on where shiftout is out of the box I may tinker with the weights and see if I can improve anything. Clutching is undoubtedly the hardest mod for a company to get perfect for every individual machine out there..so many things effect clutching..tire size,manufacturing tolerances(the old saying I "got a good one" or "mines a dog"..there is some truth to that) vehicle weight( rider wieght, normally ride one rider or 2 ect) normally carry cargo? Have mods that affect weight, winch,bumper ect?...engine mods...the list goes on and on. That is why I personally would never buy a kit that doesn't come with adjustable weighs.
 

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Okay we tested out the ddp clutch on the dirt just now... dead stop foot to the floor it jumps to 6800 to 6900... then climbs to 8000 where it stays until we ran out of smooth ground.. does this sound right??? or should it go straight to 8000 and stay there??
 
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Okay we tested out the ddp clutch on the dirt just now... dead stop foot to the floor it jumps to 6800 to 6900... then climbs to 8000 where it stays until we ran out of smooth ground.. does this sound right??? or should it go straight to 8000 and stay there??
Depends on how long it takes to get to 8000..it probably can't jump straight to 8k because there a minimum ratio so to speak. With the belt all the way down in the primary and all the way to the top of the secondary the RPMs have to climb to the shift out rpm before the cluthes start shifting.
 

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okay thats what i thought when it got to 8000 and stayed there.. but man it pulls good... you kinda have to learn how to drive it again without engine braking... is there a good set of brake pads available.. like for a 4 hr. race we are doing August 20th
 
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I would love to see a side by side race....stock xp vs. DDP clutched stocker

anybody?
I'd love to do it but I'm the only stock XP out of the guys I know local...the others either have exhaust or big tires or both..I'll see if my dealer has a stock demo but I doubt it they usually deck them out with bumpers doors roof ect. Personally I am going to use my Dynolicious app and try to keep all the variables as close as possible. Laugh but I have been impressed how accurate it is for 0-60 and 1/8 mile times.
 
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Just curious what are you seeing for engagement and shiftout out of the box
Highoctane what is you factory rpms?? Stall and then shiftout??
Heres the thing..new it would engage at about 1550-1600...now it engages at at about 1450 (if you ease into the throttle you feel it start grabbing), right off idle it starts grabbing.. The primary spring has weakened. Real nicey nice engagment..but not good for performance...and not only does the weakened spring affect engagement it affects shift rate..Shiftout RPM is good..it is about 8100-8200..problem is it doesn't hit shiftout RPM until about 50 mph now..I wish I would have paid more attention when it hit shiftout new..it think it got to 8000 faster..I know there is a min. ratio..but I cant imagine it is so tall that it can't hit 8100 until 50 mph?
I can tell performance has fell off a good bit recently and the lower engagement RPM tells me the primary spring going away is responsible...
Anyone out there with a low mile XP 900 can tell me it you nail it from a stop how fast you are going before you get to say 8000 RPM?
Lazypitbull what about with the DD set up? speed before it hits 8000?
 
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