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Over stressing - no b/c it's a wear item and I think you would have seen damage/wear a lot sooner than the 3000 you got out of those parts.

Look at your own posts & attitude about how we ride these machines,
"Thrash'm until you break something, fix it and do it again.

Your the best thrasher I know!!!

 

techniclly, no, one axle is not going to "affect" the other side, but they do wear pretty much the same.

if an axle SNAPS from a big tire or an aggressive situation replace it and move on... if it wears out sue to wear and tear a.k.a. mileage when one wears out the other side is next in line.

i keep a spare titan axle in my tool box. axles are easy

 

I'm re[placing both axle assemblies with Rhinos. Not going to try to rebuild the old ones. The new boot shredding still has me stumped.

 

Haha, yea Dave, I'm not known to baby my machine. I think I'll get "Thrasher" lettered on my doors!:rofl3:

 

I'd go

#1THRASHER

:ride:

 

Putting the axle in, just line it straight up with the hole and give it a sharp push... Make sure circlip is lubed and the circlip seat in the tranny is clean.

Galaxy gadget.

 

if your rear got squirrelly then your axle probably popped out for a moment. which caused the boot to shred. I know I had the same thing happen but i snapped the end off my axle.

I replaced my boot, thought I had put the cv back on correctly but the c clip didn't seat properly. I was riding at tall pines when I noticed the rear seemed to be going all over the trail and the front wheels seemed to be doing all the work. I pulled over to see what was going on and noticed the new boot had ripped off. When I looked closer I saw the axle had popped out of the cv. When I attempted to put it back in I noticed the axle was broke at the groove the clip rides in. So it wouldn't lock back into the cv. I managed to get it lined up and stay in place long enough to limp back to the truck. Never heard anything because the boot kept the axle from banging around. I ended up replacing the whole axle and keeping the old cv's as spare parts.

the whole thing was my fault for not putting the cv back on properly, lesson learned and it will not happen again.

 

When I took out the axle (right)with the new boot, everything came out together and the circlips were all in their places. But with the miles I have on it, it is possible the bearing jumped the plunge cup circlip and jumped back in.
I'm not familiar with CVs but are the ball bearings supposed to stay in the race or can they fall out easily? They fell out as I was cleaning the CV (left)that actually came out. Like you I'm replacing both axle assemblies but I want to solve the mystery. Two CVs in two rides......hmmmmmm!

 

I hear ya. I know what tore mine up. I got a rock lodged in the bearing carrier at the bottom just under the boot area. Not totally sure but when I had mine apart I cleaned it up before putting the new boot on and my bearings all stayed in place. The whole cage assembly was fairly tight and hard to move.

 

I believe I found the root of my problems. Broken motor mount! Part of the U shaped front mount that attaches to the engine, broke where it bolts to the rubber dampeners on the frame. Easy enough to replace!

 

that would do it!

 

Motor mounts are usually the cause for torn boots in automobiles. It creates too much misalignment and pulls/tears the boot and can pop cv's out also. Same applies for us with these machines only real difference is we have the added worry of the boots being damaged by debri we encounter off road.

 

Something I'm going to try is flip my axles from 1 side to the other . If you take an axle apart that has a lot of miles on it you will see the cups are worn worse on one side than the other - from going one direction . I have to replace both u joints and the slip collar on the drive shaft any ways and will see how the wheels bearings etc look when I go thru it. Kinda surprised at 1k miles both u joints shot and the slip collar has a lot of play in it.

 

Well considering most the parts on our machines are made in china the short life span isn't shocking. Sad thing is most guys on here think it's acceptable for items like cv's and bearings to wear out in less than 5000 miles. I got 130k out of the rear wheel bearings on my 2004 Scion and that thing has been through 4-6 months of salty Michigan winters every year of it's life. Whats worse is my rzr was only $3500 less than my car!

 

What you say is true. I put over 150k on my truck before doing any clutch or brake work. Some of Polaris parts are cheap Chinese crap and I do expect more from my machine. That said, I have got a lot more miles from many of my 570 parts than many people on here and the CVs would probably have lasted longer ( though I don't know if they are damaged badly yet) if not for the motor mount. But companies like Scion are mass produced compared to Polaris so they can sell cheaper and have better quality at the same time.
The Japanese MX bikes weren't the most reliable when they first came out but of course now the are near bullet proof. Give it time, Polaris will get better.
BTW, my Chevy Aveo cost the same as my 570, new, out the door. 70k on it! Go figure!

 

Ride your cars r trucks on the same trails and as fast and see what happens , I drive from Salt Lake City ut to Moab every day and see lots and lots of jeeps trucks and foreign 4 x 4's on the side of the road all the time Brocken down from trying to do Moab trails , some of my friends race off road and they spend big bucks in the 100 thousands and still brake stuff all the time. If you drive any thing it is going to brake

 

Everything that is neglected or abused will break. Thats not my point. My point is how quickly these machines are wearing through parts. Brake pads are a wear item, I'll even accept changing a drive belt every season. However bushings, bearings, ball joints, motor mounts, shocks, and coils needing to be replaced in the first 2 seasons of use is just plain sad. It's not rocket science to build these parts to have a more reasonable "service interval".

 

Yea, it wouldn't kill them to use Teflon bushings instead of the cheap plastic crap.

 

Instead of starting a new thread I will ask here. I pulled a axle apart. The retaining ring in the axle fell out and allowed the axle and balls to pull out of the cup. The ring spring is screwed. Is there any way to get those? Is this axle garbage now? These are ADRs from SuperATV.

 

Try Babbit's Parts House. They have or can get all the circlips needed for the axle assembly.