it could be the clutch. several of the companies that make springs and helix kits omit the factory tang on the secondary spring which will cause a bit of a clunk when the secondary clutch is pulled into action.

it could be a CV joint as well. when the potentially damaged retainer or "cage" is under load it will not make any noise, but when load direction is changed (forward to reverse or vice versa) you can hear the "clunk" of the bearings moving inside the potentially damaged assembly.

it could be a sway bar end link. as the suspension moves (usually noticeable when radius rods are out of alignment allowing the suspension to load up or unload) if the end links are either loose or the pivots are worn out, they can omit a clunk as the suspension moves.

all of this would be more noticeable at low speeds (pulling in and out of the garage for example) versus driving out in the open when sounds are bouncing off your garage walls.

just my .02

 

I forgot to mention that it has only 2k miles and it's totally stock. I bought it from friends who are in their 60's and it's never been abused and only driven on desert trails.

 

Sounds like the rollers in the secondary hitting the helix?

 

Thank you I appreciate it, I will look into it.

 

 

Thanks for the video, It's making the same clunk sound turning the wheel by hand back and forth with the wheels off the ground as with the motor running and taking off slowly.
I'm hoping I can figure it out.

 

Sounds more like an axle problem. But not sure of anything.

 

I don't think it's the half shafts as it does it on both sides, I think inside the gearbox somehwere.

 

I would check the primary- Not saying that the people you bought it from ( 60's isn't old lol) but I see some machines that are not driven very hard and the initial engagement is the jerky part.
I have found that with the "golden years crowd" a lot of wear is in primary, and is in the part just after engagement.
The lowest part of the primary is 90% used and gets worn-and wore pretty fast, because that all it mostly is driven at.

Belts and clutches do wear out and I see it more seldom in the slower paced individuals- some people claim 3,000 to 5,000 miles on a belt till I show on a micrometer how much wear their belt has compared to new and lost HP..

Take the belt off and run the inside of your fingers across the face and see if you have a good wear in that lowest spot by the bearing and go up- I bet you end up find a groove.

If it ( the jerky) annoys you- a new clutch will take care of it. It's just wore in the low engagement area and the belt is trying to close on the worn area. Zip past it and as the belt rises past that your smooth as it should be.

In your video all I can see is the play in the splines.......

 

I would check the primary- Not saying that the people you bought it from ( 60's isn't old lol) but I see some machines that are not driven very hard and the initial engagement is the jerky part.
I have found that with the "golden years crowd" a lot of wear is in primary, and is in the part just after engagement.
The lowest part of the primary is 90% used and gets worn-and wore pretty fast, because that all it mostly is driven at.

Belts and clutches do wear out and I see it more seldom in the slower paced individuals- some people claim 3,000 to 5,000 miles ona belt till I show on a micrometer how much wear their belt has compared to ne and lost HP..

Take the belt off and run the inside of your fingers across the face and see if you have a good wear in that lowest spot by the bearing and go up- I bet you end up find a groove.

If it ( the jerky) annoys you- a new clutch will take care of it. It's just wore in the low engagement area and the belt is trying to close on the worn area. Zip past it and as the belt rises past that your smooth as it should be.

In your video all I can see is the play in the splines.......

When I bought it I took the cover off and blew it all out and cleaned it up. I inspected the belt and it looked totally fine all around the belt.
If you see play in the splines, maybe it's normal?
I think I'll take the cover back off and have someone looking in when I turn the wheel back and forth and should be able to locate it better.

But that totally makes sense that the primary is worn by the center. I just have to go slow when pulling out of the garage as it's so tight.

 

edit

 

You need to remove the belt-and see/feel if you can, the weight loss as in this clutch. Not the black line just below it at the green check marks
It chatters pretty good on soft engagement and once the clutch was replaced it's smooth as silk.
if you just took of, the belt rapidly goes past the worn spot, and never felt any chatter.

It's just wore from running into the same place all the time, from slow running and generally in high range-
Yeah the clutch is a wear item took- it's just aluminum and hates heat

Not saying this is the issue, but I have replaced many with the soft takeoff chatter...and is amplified with the slack in the drivetrain-

Try switching a Primary from a buddies 1000


BTW... Get rid of the square pucks in your secondary-and change to the round roller style...Cheap upgrade and you won't be wallowing out your secondary as the square puck will and destroy it.

 

You need to remove the belt-and see/feel if you can, the weight loss as in this clutch. Not the black line just below it at the green check marks
It chatters pretty good on soft engagement and once the clutch was replaced it's smooth as silk.
if you just took of, the belt rapidly goes past the worn spot, and never felt any chatter.

It's just wore from running into the same place all the time, from slow running and generally in high range-
Yeah the clutch is a wear item took- it's just aluminum and hates heat

Not saying this is the issue, but I have replaced many with the soft takeoff chatter...and is amplified with the slack in the drivetrain-

Try switching a Primary from a buddies 1000


BTW... Get rid of the square pucks in your secondary-and change to the round roller style...Cheap upgrade and you won't be wallowing out your secondary as the square puck will and destroy it.



View attachment 756682

Thank you, I appreciate the advice, I don't know anyone who has a primary that I could test out. This weekend I'll remove the belt and look further into it.
And I'll also look into some upgrades, I'm not new to this sport, but I used to just rent them. Now that I own one, I have to learn all about them.
This is what my pucks look like from when I took pictures when I bought the RZR. Can't see it straight on, but it doesn't look that bad to me. But, yes, the round pucks are a inexpensive upgrade that I'll do.
Thank You

 

I sent the video clip to Hunterworks and Todd emailed me back saying he thinks it may be normal and referred me to this video which sounds exactly what it probably is.

 

@Jasper7821 - All I am trying to explain-is if your clutch is wore in that spot it will exaggerate your clunk as normal but makes it more noticeable.

 

Yes, thank you. I'm going to check it out this weekend to see what it looks like.
Thanks again

 

Thank you, I appreciate the advice, I don't know anyone who has a primary that I could test out. This weekend I'll remove the belt and look further into it.
And I'll also look into some upgrades, I'm not new to this sport, but I used to just rent them. Now that I own one, I have to learn all about them.
This is what my pucks look like from when I took pictures when I bought the RZR. Can't see it straight on, but it doesn't look that bad to me. But, yes, the round pucks are a inexpensive upgrade that I'll do.
Thank You View attachment 756698

Thank you, I appreciate the advice, I don't know anyone who has a primary that I could test out. This weekend I'll remove the belt and look further into it.
And I'll also look into some upgrades, I'm not new to this sport, but I used to just rent them. Now that I own one, I have to learn all about them.
This is what my pucks look like from when I took pictures when I bought the RZR. Can't see it straight on, but it doesn't look that bad to me. But, yes, the round pucks are a inexpensive upgrade that I'll do.
Thank You View attachment 756698

It will in time, ruin that secondary.. Its a easy fix and I don't mind helping walk you through it.

 

Thank you so much

 

Take the belt off, and take pictures of ththe inner sheaves. To see the wear.

 

 

Sheaves look good. Bearing looks like it got a little warm on the outside.

 

Thank you

 

Looks can be deceiving, Feel the area as I posted earlier- Both of the inside sheaves....

 

Yes on your green arrow, the primary is the same on both sides. It’s a tad thicker from the inner diameter to about 1,5”-2” then there’s a small step down and then its smooth all Tue way to the outside diameter

 

Definitely replace the square pucks in the secondary.

 

Yes, annoying as hell. I am sure it is the "slop" between the sliders and moving sheaves on both the main and secondary. I wonder if Honda has that same problem being an automatic trans? If the auto in Honda is like a car, then there is constant pressure when in gear, even if it's slight, but enough to take all the "slop" out.

 

Hi heck mine is brand new with 100 miles on it now and mine cluncks if you ease in to the throttle, everyone says it's normal even my daughter's 570 rzr does it too .

 

When I bought my 2014 xp1000 (used, low miles) it chattered a lot taking off. Forward and reverse. It was also blowing belts way to quickly. I aligned/spaced and braced the transmission and put on a Hunterworks belt. Both problems solved. Todd was very helpful and easy to work with.

 

Well since this time of the post I did end up purchasing a new hunter belt and plastic washer but have not had time to install it all yet. Thanks for all!!!