Hey Bil, usually when the anti-freeze is too strong it will Gel. If you add a little water it will dilute it a bit and shouldn't gel up. You may want to look into Engine Ice coolant. Good product and works very well lowering running temperature. My thoughts.
Ken

 

I did not know that Kedi.

I used Engine Ice in my Grizzly, seemed to work good...never overheated! I'm thinking I will just go and purchase some more Engine Ice and flush the hell out of my cooling system to give me piece of mind.

 

A "courtesy flush" !!!

 

:rofl3::rofl3::rofl3:

 

Anyone else seen this coolant issue? I am going to flush the system, I'm just curious as to why this may have happened.

 

its usually from the compatability of the two coolants. I would flush what you can and start over. Adding water is fine but if the antifreeze that comes in it is already premixed then your just diluting your corrosion protection. just my .02

 

Thanxs for your input. I went out at lunch and bought 8 litres of distilled water to do the flush and 4 litres of Engine Ice to fill 'er back up. I was hoping to get a baseline of water temp with the regular coolant so that I could compare water temps with Engine Ice. I have to finish up the electrical connections this evening and then I will crank up the machine and see how the gauge kit works and check for leaks.

 

what gauge did you buy and was it easy to install? I would like to get the big three, volt, water and oil pressure just not sure where to hook up oil pressure. I want to use an electric gauge so i don't know if i need a sending unit. sorry didn't mean to change the subject. good luck with the coolant.

 

I bought this kit from UTV Crap:

UTV Crap

I chose the silver faced gauge. Install has been fairly straight forward, except I located the return line adapter (for the temp sensing unit) in the rubber hose between the thermostat housing and the metal coolant lines behind the passenger seat, which meant I had to lengthen the wiring harness to do so. I guess they expect you to put this adapter up front. I chose this location because I would think it would be more accurate as the coolant exits the engine. Like I said, I have to finish it up tonite after my little guy goes to bed...my wife is outta town for the week...can you say Mr. Mom???

 

dont forget to ground the adapter or the gauge wont read corectly....good idea on the flush i wouldnt want that in mine......

 

Do you ground the adapter to the chassis or back to the gauge then chassis? is it baecause its an electric gauge and not a mechanical one?Thanks

 

i grounded it to the frame... yep the eletrical ones need a ground for the sending unit to work...

 

I put a self tapping screw into a chassis member for the sending unit ground wire. There is also a ground from the gauge to the chassis up under the dash. I got it all hooked up tonight, works like a charm...the fan came on at about 200 and when it did, the needle sure dropped quickly, which was good to see. The gauge light matches the centre display perfectly. Ran outta time tonight, but the system is drained...now I just have to flush and refill. What a fricken messy job. When draining the rad, the coolant hits the chassis and suspension and splashes everywhere. Good thing I did it in my garage with the floor drain. The bucket underneath didn't have a lot of coolant in it. Oops!!!

 

Hi,
I am the tech manager for Prestone Coolants. If you have gelling, the antifreeze is over concentrated. Drain the system, flush it with clean water and then refill with Prestone long life 50/50 coolant. Or if you buy concentrated Long life coolant, measure it carefully in a 50/50 ratio with distilled or demineralized water.

 

Thanxs motorking for confirming what my problem is. Welcome to RZR Forums.

 

Well...I must say, flushing the RZR cooling system sucks. Because of the length and the vertical rise of the plumbing, it's very difficult to get all of the old coolant out. It takes plenty of time to flush out the old coolant as well. I guess the most effective way would be to disconnect all of the rubber hoses. The cooling system holds 4.5 litres of coolant. I was only able to squeeze in about 2.5 litres of Engine Ice.

I might purchase some more Engine Ice so that I can have a less diluted mix with the distilled water that remained in the system. Just drain what I can and refill so the coolant is more concentrated.

I emailed Engine Ice and they got back to me right away. I asked if I am safe with this diluted Engine Ice, they said I should be fine, I know the anti-freeze won't be as effective, but that's fine, my RZR will never be in a sub zero environment!

They suggested I use compressed air to blow out the cooling sytem...anyone done this?
Any other tips or hints for a COMPLETE coolant drain?

 

I used compressed air on mine, make sure it's outside cause it makes a mess...

 

Using compressed air is fine but if theres coolant in really low parts of the system it will still be there, that is a stupid design to not have a drain in the lowest part of it. Good to know.

 

So anyone else have any info on how to drain the coolant system? I'm about to put engine ice in mine also.. I was looking today and I just don't see how your suppose to drain the stupid coolant short of turning the RZR upside down and shaking it. Any help with this? what does the service manual say on changing the coolant?

 

Bill good call on flushing it...

 

Hind sight is 20/20...I would disconnect each rubber hose from all locations and use compressed air.

 

Well I drained it flushed it.. Drained it 3 times total.. By the third time the water was clear with no green. So I'm pretty sure I got it drained pretty decent.. But it only held right at 1 gallon of engine ice. I removed the skid panel and drained it by the two connections under the passenger seat.. I jacked the rear up and used compressed air to blow out the hoses.. I think its pretty good. I did use RO/DI water to flush the system.. I figured that way any water that was left would atleast be filtered.. It does and will make a mess. I'm glad the new stuff is nontoxic and biodegradable... So next time it won't matter so much.

 

I completely flushed mine using the hose, so that it was 100 % clear. Took many flushes to get to this point. The I used distilled water and vinegar for about three flushes, then straight distilled water. It's a major pain...but on the bright side, my fan didn't work as hard today after a good long 60 mile (105 km) ride.

 

We teared my friend 10 S motor to get to camshaft and same bit of gel here. Talk to dealer, said is normal (they are the tech too) ???

Used shopvac to completly drain

 

best and cleanest method is to use a shop vac and suck the fluid out, just need the 20.00 stinger holds like 2.5 gallons, and then buy the little cone adapter for the hose, all in all it will cost you about 25.00 bucks and then you got a great vacuum to trash I used this several times on top ends for sleds and even once on the 02 z28 when doing the head swap, really sucks it out of the passages, and works even better if you put your hand over the other hose.

 

I decided to flush mine out today and put engine ice back in. I also had gelling in mine. I have never added anything to my cooling system so it must be to concentrated from the factory. It is a PITA though. I took all the lines off and blew them out with air an then pulled the tstat, and blew out the engine. I did notice the fan cycles a lot less with the engine ice.

 

Absolutely....the difference in the amount of time between the fan coming on when idling in my garage is crazy. Before the engine ice, it was a short wait for the fan to cycle on, now, with the Engine Ice, it takes forever!!!