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New to the forum.. I have read that so many people have had this problem so this is one of the first things I made and the bed seems to stay cool. 1/16" aluminum with Thermo wrap (riveted the edges to make sure wrap doesn't come off):redrzr:
Well done! That should save you from having one of the major problems that everyone seems to be having.

Cheers
 

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Very nice. I was thinking the same thing about using rivets to hold the therma wrap in place. It looks like you did the heat blocker before even driving it around the yard.

Has anyone looked into having the exhaust coated in some kind heat blocking coating. Like you see on some high end automotive exhaust headers?
 

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Not sure what type of Thermo wrap you have or if your shield is just laying on top for show . The Thermo Tec I have goes toward the heat source ( ok I can see it now looks good) and it really works, I wish their was a way to keep the bolts that come thru cool . Very clean job !!
 

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New to the forum.. I have read that so many people have had this problem so this is one of the first things I made and the bed seems to stay cool. 1/16" aluminum with Thermo wrap (riveted the edges to make sure wrap doesn't come off):redrzr:
Good looking heat sheild
 

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New to the forum.. I have read that so many people have had this problem so this is one of the first things I made and the bed seems to stay cool. 1/16" aluminum with Thermo wrap (riveted the edges to make sure wrap doesn't come off):redrzr:
This is something I have been meaning to do. Do you have a template that you used to get the bolt holes and bed coverage correct that you can share?
 

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mattman,

I'm getting ready to use Muzzys exhaust heat wrap on my dual exhaust to prevent melting the bed down again. Do a search on applying exhaust heat wrap and there are lots of youtube and other sites with instructions for application.

I got a new bed, cut out for the UTV Inc. bed plate. Great access to the engine compartment, but labor day the bed got so hot the Lock N Ride box melted the right front corner about an 8" x 8" section.

So I got the replacement parts coming...

Getting the new Muzzys duals that go down instead of up (towards the bed). Will wrap them with heat tape. I'm thinking their kit has enough to put two layers on.

New UTV Inc bed plate, the other is now corrugated like metal roofing.

Also cutting some 3/8" washers 2" diameter. Plan to rework the Lock N Ride clamps so that the spacers are between the bed plate and the Lock N Ride box. Hoping 3/8" air gap will help keep the Lock N Ride contents cooler.

Time will tell,

Pirate
 

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I had my stock exhaust ceramic coated inside and out and it seemed to help. The bed still gets a little hot but not as bad. Also the coating makes the exhaust easy to clean and it looks great. I have heard that when the heat wrap gets wet it lossens up and you can't pressure wash it.
 

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mattman,

I'm getting ready to use Muzzys exhaust heat wrap on my dual exhaust to prevent melting the bed down again. Do a search on applying exhaust heat wrap and there are lots of youtube and other sites with instructions for application.

I got a new bed, cut out for the UTV Inc. bed plate. Great access to the engine compartment, but labor day the bed got so hot the Lock N Ride box melted the right front corner about an 8" x 8" section.

So I got the replacement parts coming...

Getting the new Muzzys duals that go down instead of up (towards the bed). Will wrap them with heat tape. I'm thinking their kit has enough to put two layers on.

New UTV Inc bed plate, the other is now corrugated like metal roofing.

Also cutting some 3/8" washers 2" diameter. Plan to rework the Lock N Ride clamps so that the spacers are between the bed plate and the Lock N Ride box. Hoping 3/8" air gap will help keep the Lock N Ride contents cooler.

Time will tell,

Pirate
Don't want to rain on your parade. But Wrapping will only last a short time, mud and water will do its toll on it. Also your Exhaust will rust out FAST! Been there done that! Took the wrap off and was shocked to see that we needed a new exhaust after only tad over a year. So we now just do the full Aluminum Heat Shield and ride.

If you elect to go ahead with the wrap, buy a bucket of hose clamps and put them on top of the wrap about every three inches to keep it on there good and tight.
 

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Kandgo,

I remember reading something about issues with heat wrap, The new Muzzys pipes are stainless steel, so rust shouldn't be an issues.

The picture of the kit shows it comes with lots of clamps, but I have the stainless steel loop clamps and may use them.

I got the UTV Inc. bed to give me easy access to the engine compartment. Having "dusted" a motor and not having any idea why, has me doing an thorough inspection of the intake duct after every ride. Plus being able to change out spark plugs, which I've only done once, is a lot easier.

What's got me is that, on Labor Day Monday, we were riding a basic trail, not anything really challenging, just rocky and slow. We stopped to let someone pass, they go past and on down the trail and POW...just like a gunshot. Shut off the motor and there's vapor coming from under the bed. Let it cool a few minutes. Found a "can of air" that I carry for blasting debris out of the spark plug detents had gotten so hot it exploded. Blew the latch off the Lock N Ride box and blew some of the other contents out. Clean everything out of the Lock N Ride box. The whole front passenger side corner is completedly melted. The UTV Inc. bed plate looks like corrugated roofing. The new bed around the right front passenger Lock N Ride clamp hole is completely melted. There is melted plastic from the box dripped across the bed hold down tubes. Many things in the Lock N Ride box were in Ziploc bags, they melted, the bungee cord set in a plastic bottle melted, the bottle and a few bungees. The container for my first aid kit melted...and we were only 9 miles into the days ride! Put things back together and went the rest of the 57 mile ride.

So what is one to do? If I put in the large heatshield, then I have to remove the bed everytime I want to inspect things. That includes my Siezmik rear rack and bag, two gas can holders and in the near future my air canister.

Muzzys made me a good deal on new nead pipes, the new design, that routes the headers under the mufflers and a lot further from the bottom of the bed. So I'm hoping with those and header wrap, maybe I'll have this problem licked. If I have to redo the header wrap every year...well, I'll do that to have the convienience of the bed plate.

Other thoughts?

Thanks,

Pirate
 

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I am still 16 in my head!
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It's crazy the heat that comes off this little motor. And the heat is even worse on those that Snorkel the CVT Belt Exhaust up and out, and lose that air movement to aid in pushing some heat on out the rear. We have simply just added a full piece of 1/4 thick aluminum plate under the bed, which you know creates a good air gap and we have never had a problem since doing Rzr's this way.

Good to know the New Muzzy's are Stainless, that should make em last a tad longer. But I bet the Grade of Stainless they are made of is on the weaker end of the spectrum of Stainless. But checking it and keeping a good eye on it, I bet you will be good to go!!

Doing anything is better than the alternative huh? Melted crap and possible a total loss to a fire!!!!!
 

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You got that right!!!

I'm working on a post as I get the replacement parts and get it all back together.

Used to have a couple of very good metallurgists in the group I managed...I'll see if I can get the new headers tested. The existing ones have been on since June 2010 and have no rust on them. I'll check the inside when I switch them out and let you know what I find.

Thanks for the info!!!

Pirate
 

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Header wrap, oil cooler with wrapped lines, fan override switch.
All these have cooled my bed and motor significantly.
I do have he advantage of rarely getting any mud and water on the rig.
My pipes stay pretty dry so no deterioration of the wrap.
Works great.



 

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Total,

Looks good man!!

I see the wrapped exhaust. Was the heat shield welded on so that you could not wrap the header pipes to the muffler?

I have a reflective wrap on my radiator hose, can't remember what it came with, but its been there for three years, no problems.

Oil cooler, did you wrap the lines due to proximity to the exhaust system? I'm running the Ultimate SXS oil filter relocation kit and have stainless lines running above th CVT housing over to the driver side of the frame.

Thanks,

Pirate
 

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Man you think polaris would fix the heat problem. It is not like a one in 10,000 occurance. More like everyone has the problem.

I was thinking the exhaust coating with the bed plate would do the trick.

Here is a link to a place that coats exhaust. Ceramic Exhaust Coatings

Trying to figure out how much of a temperature drop the coating provides.
 

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I used to have ceramic coating on pipes for my Fatboy. Don't think it dropped the temperature any, but sure made 'em look good!

I've ordered the therma-tec self adhesive from Amazon and will put it on the underside of my bed plate.

Looking and my warped bed plate, its magnetic, so just steel, and with just satin black paint or powdercoat on the top side, its not an insulator at all. Just passed the heat up to the Lock N Ride box, and when it melted the steel bed plate got hot enough to warp.

The therma-tec come is a sheet big enough to completely cover the UTV Inc bed plate, and that is what is going to happen.

More to come,

Pirate
 
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