[sackamous]

LOL nope not at all, Royal Purple seemed to make mine worse.

 

[tech9kyle]

The valve cover doesn't have to be pulled to swap out, but the engine needs to be at a relaxed stage, off the valve spring tension.

 

[armyn]

The valve cover doesn't have to be pulled to swap out, but the engine needs to be at a relaxed stage, off the valve spring tension.

how can you tell if the engine is in a relaxed stage?:question:

 

[sharprzr]

Bring motor up to tdc

 

[Z15]

Think about it, how many want you to keep driving your current sxs? You are the only one; the dealer and the OEM are only interested in selling you parts, expensive service or a new sxs. They want a monopoly on your business and their owners’ manuals and dealer propaganda are designed to affect that end.

Polaris only recommends what make them money.


Is Polaris oil required in in a Polaris vehicle?

Federal law says, if they require a product for a warranty, the manufacturer must supply it free of charge.

 

[Booser]

I found this manual tensioner online. Just cant see paying almost $200 for an adjutable bolt. this one is less much cheaper.

Polaris Cam Chain Tensioners

 

[mark5193]

Think about it, how many want you to keep driving your current sxs? You are the only one; the dealer and the OEM are only interested in selling you parts, expensive service or a new sxs. They want a monopoly on your business and their owners’ manuals and dealer propaganda are designed to affect that end.

Polaris only recommends what make them money.


Is Polaris oil required in in a Polaris vehicle?

Federal law says, if they require a product for a warranty, the manufacturer must supply it free of charge.

this is correct. they can mandate weights though.

 

[armyn]

talk to our lawyer regarding this. he said you can use what ever oil or parts you want but polaris got to prove that the part you have used caused the damage then they can void it. but if the oil or parts did not cause it then they cannot void your warranty. he added that he delt with couple of this case on chrysler and ford company which is 10x bigger than polaris

 

[chevz7194]

I found this manual tensioner online. Just cant see paying almost $200 for an adjutable bolt. this one is less much cheaper.



Polaris Cam Chain Tensioners

Let us know how it works out

 

[Boscob]

I found this manual tensioner online. Just cant see paying almost $200 for an adjutable bolt. this one is less much cheaper.

Polaris Cam Chain Tensioners

That is not for the 1000:sad:

 

[topgun]

I found this manual tensioner online. Just cant see paying almost $200 for an adjutable bolt. this one is less much cheaper.

Polaris Cam Chain Tensioners

That is not for the 1000:sad:

According to Alba, the 570, 900, and 1000 tensioner is the same so it ought to work.

This is a manual cam chain tensioner for any year Polaris RZR XP 900 XP 1000 and RZR 570 all models, 2 and 4 seat.

 

[410Customs]

at 20 hour service I switched both machines 2014 XP 1000 and 2015 XP 1000 4 to Mobil one synthetic European car formula 0-40W oil and Mobil filter.
Cold start up tensioner rattling noise is pretty much non existent now.

also switched rear transaxle to full synthetic Valvoline ATF.
I did keep Polaris demand drive in the front diff

Info from "bobs the oil guy" website shows the factory Polaris fluid break down vs acceptable alternatives
Polaris fluids for me are a 60 mile drive or order online and ship. I prefer to run what is avail locally, what I know works, Mobil and Valvoline for me in my shop
Proof is in the pudding.
Tensioner noise at cold startup with Polaris oil
Tensioner noise at cold startup non existent with Mobil Synth
hmmmm why?
Is it because the synthetic is better at holding pressure in the tensioner?
Is it because the Mobil oil flows easier and pumps up faster?
I am not sure, but I feel better without that noise
Im a mechanic and I live at 9000', cold startups are COLD

 

[topgun]

Thanks for the info. Was thinking the Polaris oil was synthetic though?

 

[Toenail]

Thanks for all the info..

 

[madhouse]

at 20 hour service I switched both machines 2014 XP 1000 and 2015 XP 1000 4 to Mobil one synthetic European car formula 0-40W oil and Mobil filter.
Cold start up tensioner rattling noise is pretty much non existent now.

also switched rear transaxle to full synthetic Valvoline ATF.
I did keep Polaris demand drive in the front diff

Info from "bobs the oil guy" website shows the factory Polaris fluid break down vs acceptable alternatives
Polaris fluids for me are a 60 mile drive or order online and ship. I prefer to run what is avail locally, what I know works, Mobil and Valvoline for me in my shop
Proof is in the pudding.
Tensioner noise at cold startup with Polaris oil
Tensioner noise at cold startup non existent with Mobil Synth
hmmmm why?
Is it because the synthetic is better at holding pressure in the tensioner?
Is it because the Mobil oil flows easier and pumps up faster?
I am not sure, but I feel better without that noise
Im a mechanic and I live at 9000', cold startups are COLD

Did you really put ATF in your transmission? I think 80-90 gear lube is a better choice.

 

[410Customs]

Yes I put valvoline full synthetic ATF in the XP1000 transaxle

The stock polaris fluid was the purple stuff, full synthetic AGL plus

See here:
Polaris AGL alternatives | Power Sports | Bob Is The Oil Guy

Basically royal purple and amsoil will say synthetic chaincase lubricant in place of Polaris AGL plus
I chose Valvoline full synth ATF, should lubricate and cool nicely.

XP 1000 uses a rear transaxle, not a rear differential but I am sure you know this

When researching this topic I come across many oil manufactures who offer a 75W-90W synth gear lube for transmissions as an alternate, then you will see Amsoil recommends their chaincase lube because it has all the required properties for the chains and gears and high pressure.
This is similar to ATF's designed for "Synchromesh" type transmissions.
Full synthetic ATF's are good for this application also, I love Valvoline ATF's so thats what I chose, good price and 5 miles from home.

MOST guys share this opinion:

The oil for this is in essence a chaincase lubricant. Amsoil makes a real good one, as well as brands like bellray, motoil, etc.
But I highly advise against using anything but the Polaris AGL Plus lubricant. It simply is the best lubricant for this application.
A regular chaincase uses just chains and gears, so a regualr chaincase oil is good for this. But the Polaris transmission is not like this. There is alot more going on inside a Polaris transmission. There is gears (rear diff), a chain for reverse, and other moving parts for gear changing.

The Polaris AGL Plus fluid is a very light oil, but it has some Extreme Pressure additives in it to protect and lubricate the internal meshing gears for the rear diff. (much like gear oil). It also has anti-corrosive additives.\If you use anything else, you really run the risk of prematurely wearing the rear diff gears, and this is a costly repair.
My adivce, use the Polaris AGL Plus fluid, and nothing else.

Taken from the highlifter forums, I personally do not! I do not believe "Polaris fluids are the best for this application", Polaris fluids are overpriced and although adequate, they are not superior. I do not mind running Motocraft oils in my Ford, but that does not make them the best and only choice.


Update: The Mobil engine oil DID NOT eliminate the start up noise, it lessened it.
I started both machines this am and there is still a noise, but its alot less apparent and goes away more quickly.

Machine have sat for about a week until this am

 

[Fred ooo]

why the 0-40 weight and not 5-50 or10-50 weight

 

[Bux_ka_2]

Changed oil and filter today at 2270 miles... all my oil changes to date have been with the regular Polaris oil but this time I used the Extreme Duty oil. I figured I'd see how it affected the startup rattle.

Well... it really improved. Now when it starts (started from cold twice) I don't have those initial few seconds of really loud noise...

 

[Fred ooo]

been using extreme from the start still makes rattle, if yours has stopped it either is temporary or your lucky.

 

[Radrob99]

The oil is only there to lube the the cam chain. there is a hole in the end of the tensioner to let the oil out and no matter what you do the oil will still bleed out of tensioner when you shut engine off that's what it's designed to do. the problem is the spring in tensioner is not strong enough to stop chain from rattling until it has oil pressure. I WOULD CHANGE TENSIONER BEFORE IT JUMPS TIME LIKE MINE DID. watch the video.
http://www.rzrforums.net/rzr-xp-4-1000/180130-cam-chain-tensioner-install-video.htm