went out this morning to get bike started to go on trailer for the park, it was 52 degrees this morning if that matters. 2013 rzr 800 S LE 4 seater. Try to start bike and it fires up and dies right away. Did that 2 more times and wouldn't idle. So now I try it again and I get a sound like a starter just spinning and not engaging, but I can faintly hear the motor puff from the exhaust, almost like a loss of compression all of a sudden. So I stop for minute or 2 and try again and it fires off and then dies. I literally did this for 30 mins before it finally would idle on its own and run. After that, it has started up first time all day and ran good. But for some reason, starting it after it's been sitting overnight is almost impossible
Cold start issues
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xtreme1016
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Guess I'll try some rotella 5-40 this time in the motor
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And honestly the prv sticking isnt that of a common thing. I would bet most that have stuck weren't maintained the greatest. Once the oil gets cooked it starts sticking to everything. I change mine every 50 hours even though polaris manual says 100hr. You cant change the oil too often in these 800 engines.
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I just has me baffled because the pin and the hole look clean. I don't see any gunk anywhere down in there. Is it possible to tighten that bolt down too tight and the spring pushed it too far down?
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Not likely. More likely the dowel could be alittle warped or out of round. Or the hole could be distorted. I would polish the crap out of the dowel with 600-800 grit sandpaper then see if drops all the way down and back out easily and go from there.
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No. The tapered in was down first
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No the tapered end was down
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If the pin is stuck down it can also completely cut off the oil flow to the cam and lifters. Been there done that got the T shirt. I know you are sick of messing with this, but learn from my mistakes. If it were mine and I had to do it all over again I would pull the top end and remove the lifters. I had this same problem. Mine was caused by a poor "rebuild" job. Someone got crazy with RTV silicone and it sucked it up against the pickup tube screen, the relief valve stuck and the cam and lifters went metal on metal. Ran the cam flat and ruined the lifters. All sorts of debris throughout the engine.
Removing the head doesnt take long, I can do a top end job on mine in about 45 minutes. Just pull off the cylinder head and fish the lifters out with a magnet. The lifters are the same exact dimensions from a small block 350. If you cant get the lifters to come out with a magnet that is a sign you need to pull the motor and inspect further. When the lifters and cam go its usually quick, if you catch it soon enough you can clean up the mess and prevent a catastrophe. I pressed my old crankshaft apart, they are a press fit design and it was full of goop, metal and oil mixture that was almost a paste. It plugged the oil passages and caused premature rod failure. All of this was due to poor maintenance and a stuck dowel.
Had I pulled it down the first time I probably wouldve saved myself a headache and a good chunk of change!
I was able to pull the valve cover and there wasnt a drop of oil in it with it running. Once I decided to tear into it, the bottom end was gone. It ate up a rod bearing. I got it cleaned up and rebuilt it myself, but I really wish I had gone the extra mile first and checked it all out. If you are hearing tapping from the top end there is a chance the cam has gone flat, it doesnt take long. I literally ran mine for about 10 minutes trying to follow the advice to warm it up to get the dowel out.
I finally had to use a pick tool and push it out from behind the oil pump once I had the motor apart. To answer your question on why they stick, its shitty casting job by polaris on the cases. The 800 has its flaws, but as mentioned if you read up about them and fix all the known issues they are very reliable and fun!
Removing the head doesnt take long, I can do a top end job on mine in about 45 minutes. Just pull off the cylinder head and fish the lifters out with a magnet. The lifters are the same exact dimensions from a small block 350. If you cant get the lifters to come out with a magnet that is a sign you need to pull the motor and inspect further. When the lifters and cam go its usually quick, if you catch it soon enough you can clean up the mess and prevent a catastrophe. I pressed my old crankshaft apart, they are a press fit design and it was full of goop, metal and oil mixture that was almost a paste. It plugged the oil passages and caused premature rod failure. All of this was due to poor maintenance and a stuck dowel.
Had I pulled it down the first time I probably wouldve saved myself a headache and a good chunk of change!
I was able to pull the valve cover and there wasnt a drop of oil in it with it running. Once I decided to tear into it, the bottom end was gone. It ate up a rod bearing. I got it cleaned up and rebuilt it myself, but I really wish I had gone the extra mile first and checked it all out. If you are hearing tapping from the top end there is a chance the cam has gone flat, it doesnt take long. I literally ran mine for about 10 minutes trying to follow the advice to warm it up to get the dowel out.
I finally had to use a pick tool and push it out from behind the oil pump once I had the motor apart. To answer your question on why they stick, its shitty casting job by polaris on the cases. The 800 has its flaws, but as mentioned if you read up about them and fix all the known issues they are very reliable and fun!
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Since cleaning the passage and the pin a little, I put it back in and the motor fires up quick now with no issues. The tapping is not there anymore. If it is, it's very faint. Before it was noticeable and that was only for 2-3 mins before turning it off. But as of now, it's firing off fine and idling good
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If you dont want to tear into it, at the very least, I would drain the oil and pull the filter. Dissect it and make sure there are no traces of metal. Im not trying to scare you just passing along good information from my stupid mistakes. I never thought a few minutes of idle time while trying to bleed the air from the coolant was enough to do what mine did but boy was I wrong!
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Thanks for the info on this.
I had this happen once to me also and didn't even think of the PRV dowel.
Time to take mine apart also and clean it up.
Only happened when it was about 30 degrees out.
I had this happen once to me also and didn't even think of the PRV dowel.
Time to take mine apart also and clean it up.
Only happened when it was about 30 degrees out.
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I'm having the exact same issue with mine. where is this PRV dowel located so i can check mine out to see if that's the problem I'm having...
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I got my bolt and spring out...doll is stuck down in there...any suggestions to get it out
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Let it soak in penetrating oil for a while..?
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You can try that. Cant remember if its in this thread or another, but some people have had luck by pulling the bolt and spring, holding a rag over the prv bolt hole and having a buddy try to start the engine. Sometimes the prv dowel will pop loose once the engine builds alittle oil pressure. If you can ever get it to move alittle, just keep working it up a down it may free up enough to get it out.
So does a stuck dowel equal high oil pressure or no oil pressure?
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It depends on where in the bore it is stuck. If its covering the oil bypass hole then it should mean high oil pressure. If its stuck above the oil bypass hole, low or no oil pressure.
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