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Hi everyone,

I have a 2015 rzr xp4 1000 and just got an check engine code 0 520344 with a 17 below it? can someone point me in the right direction and let me know what this code is?

Thank you
 

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Our 2016 XP41K threw the exact same code last summer. Mileage was 3725 at the time it occurred. It felt like it was running at half power or on one cylinder. Fortunately it did not leave us stranded out in the forest and we we're able to make an easy recovery and drive it on the trailer.

I took it in to our dealer where it was purchased and what they did to solve the problem was, 1) replaced fuel pump, 2) replaced one fuel injector. Extended warranty paid for the fuel pump, I had to pay for the fuel injector, they didn't charge labor for replacing the injector.


I researched it before taking it in and read all kinds of stuff it could be. The two items that came up most often were, 1) bad O2 analyzer, 2) TPS throttle position sensor.


Glad I took it in for repairs instead of throwing a bunch of parts at it trying to fix it myself.


Good luck with the repair. Please post the results when you get it sorted out, it will help others in the future.
 

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Yesterday we were riding our 2015 xp 1000 down a dirt road. Nothing crazy. Not in mud. The RZR has 800 miles and was just serviced and new belt installed at dealer. Check engine light came on and went into limp mode. I investigated and came up with code 520344 with a 17 under it. I changed the fuel pump as the fuel gauge did not work and the float was sunk. ( another weird thing) Anyway - I am lost what do to. Where to start besides just taking to the dealer. We were just driving down a dirt road to the neighboring town about 20 miles away.
 

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Code 520344... check it out people, replaced belt, 02 sensor, cleaned wiring, nothing. So i bought newfuel pump, new pump doesn't work(ground hop your new pump, make sure it works) sent 2nd pump, it didn't work. Original pump worked but only 32 psi. This is where it gets good, started looking at the O ring on top thepump, the gas was leaking past the o ring, put a new quality O ring in...58psi. It only took 3 months to figure this out......a $1.00 O ring. I'll bet this is a common problem with this code! Your welcome. Rick
 

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Code 520344... check it out people, replaced belt, 02 sensor, cleaned wiring, nothing. So i bought newfuel pump, new pump doesn't work(ground hop your new pump, make sure it works) sent 2nd pump, it didn't work. Original pump worked but only 32 psi. This is where it gets good, started looking at the O ring on top thepump, the gas was leaking past the o ring, put a new quality O ring in...58psi. It only took 3 months to figure this out......a $1.00 O ring. I'll bet this is a common problem with this code! Your welcome. Rick
That is great information, thanks for posting it. Did the O ring have a tear or crack or did it shrink a little and allow fuel to bypass?
The OP really needs to get on here and post his outcome.
 

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Hmm... I'm having the same code. Checked the TMAP and connector. Both OK. Swapped in the O2 sensor from my buddy's rig and no change. Zeroing in on the fuel pump. When the engine is running it sounds like it's starving for fuel. When your remove the fuel line from the top of the tank it's not under pressure. In fact no fuel even drips out. Have an extended warranty so off to the dealer for a new fuel pump I hope but I suspect that the issue may just be the oring mentioned above. Meanwhile curious what method are you guys using to get the pump retaining ring off?
 

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This code is caused when the ECU has reached a max limit when adjusting the closed loop fuel trims. This code can be set due to an exhaust leak, Intake system leak, or faulty O2 sensor system. Check O2 sensor wiring and this code may accompany other codes.
 

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This code is caused when the ECU has reached a max limit when adjusting the closed loop fuel trims. This code can be set due to an exhaust leak, Intake system leak, or faulty O2 sensor system. Check O2 sensor wiring and this code may accompany other codes.
Or anything that can cause the mixture to go lean - i.e. low fuel pressure, etc.
 

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As far as the O ring you could see where gas was squeezing by. No cracks, looked to be in good shape. Factory fuel pump still worked not enough pressure. After getting 2 bad fuel pumps i decided to try a new o ring while waiting on my 3rd pump. BAM....58psi.. spread the news, if your pump still works try new O ring
 

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I'll start from beginning... live in az so never see alot of water or mud. Cruising along when 15 xp4 1000 loss power and died, was able to get it back to trailer. There was another code????? 5 digit saying a lean misfire on cyl 2. Ram in low range above 4000rpm for 30 sec or so, that code went away. But the 520344 would not, rzr would pop and run like crap, after 3 months of tinkering(also working on my quad) not that slow... going though forums,you tube,etc. This was my conclusion, if your fuel pump still works, check out the O ring on top of the pump, 58psi is a lot of pressure. This is why they burn so good, pop a fuel line you got instant flame thrower. Good luck people
 

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As far as the retaining ring lol ya, big pair of channel locks, dont squeeze to hard... make sure your arrows are all lined up going back on.... lube on the threads doesn't even help, i did anyways
 

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As far as the retaining ring lol ya, big pair of channel locks, dont squeeze to hard... make sure your arrows are all lined up going back on.... lube on the threads doesn't even help, i did anyways
I was hoping to avoid that. There are a number of tools offered on Amazon ranging from ~$15 - $100. Wondering if anyone has experience with any of them - particularly the less expensive ones. According to the service manual the nut is torqued to 70 ft lbs.
 

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As far as the retaining ring lol ya, big pair of channel locks, dont squeeze to hard... make sure your arrows are all lined up going back on.... lube on the threads doesn't even help, i did anyways
I was hoping to avoid that. There are a number of tools offered on Amazon ranging from ~$15 - $100. Wondering if anyone has experience with any of them - particularly the less expensive ones. According to the service manual the nut is torqued to 70 ft lbs.


I bought a Moose racing fuel pump nut wrench from Dennis Kirk for $67. It worked well. I had trouble keeping the arrows lined up at full torque. The body would turn with the nut either too far or not enough to line up. Not the fault of the wrench. Ended up at a little less than the 70 lb/ft to line up but it doesn’t leak, has full pressure and runs fine. The original pump was down to 35 psi. Had no code but would not run at all.
 

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Update - Took the RZR into the dealer and they confirmed the fuel pump was bad. Replaced with new OEM under extended warranty. They were nice enough to give me the old pump which I took apart and found a bad oring at the pump outlet. It's a 8mm x 2.5mm viton oring ($5 for 5 on Ebay). Replaced the oring but haven't had a chance to test it. Pretty sure that's the culprit. If I didn't have the warranty I would have tried changing the oring ($1) before replacing the pump ($400).
 

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As far as the retaining ring lol ya, big pair of channel locks, dont squeeze to hard... make sure your arrows are all lined up going back on.... lube on the threads doesn't even help, i did anyways
I was hoping to avoid that. There are a number of tools offered on Amazon ranging from ~$15 - $100. Wondering if anyone has experience with any of them - particularly the less expensive ones. According to the service manual the nut is torqued to 70 ft lbs.


I bought a Moose racing fuel pump nut wrench from Dennis Kirk for $67. It worked well. I had trouble keeping the arrows lined up at full torque. The body would turn with the nut either too far or not enough to line up. Not the fault of the wrench. Ended up at a little less than the 70 lb/ft to line up but it doesn’t leak, has full pressure and runs fine. The original pump was down to 35 psi. Had no code but would not run at all.

I bought a spanner off Amazon for $16 but haven't had a chance to use it since the dealer took care of my fuel pump issue. Reviews were mostly decent. Hoping it works if I ever need it :)


https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00QL6HXJI/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o04_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
 

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I had the same problem. Polaris covered it under "good-will warranty." Its 1-1/2 years old (1 year out of warranty) but only has 500 miles. They said the pump has a new part number so hopefully Polaris changed something on the o-ring fit to prevent the problem in the future. If not, I got a nice Kalrez O-ring sitting in my tool box ready to go in if need be. Should hold up better than a cheap viton.
 
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