I think a belt will fix you up, but I may be wrong, I am all the time actually Haha. Your RZR should turn 26'' horns no problem... You can go severe duty if you want nut it's not necessity with that tire size.

 

RacerX, have you pulled your clutch cover and inspected the clutches? @ 1,000 miles at least an inspection is warnt'd. When you get in there, blow out the primary with compressed air (have protection for you will get a lot of dust) I like to pull the primary and inspect all the moveable parts. With the primary on the bench, removing the 6 screws on the spider will allow you to inspect the spring and the movement of the sliding sheeve. You can get a different engagement/ramp program from the clutch builders, but an inspection will at least give you something to chat about,
John

 

It sucks having my rzr 200mi away, I wont be able to check it out for a couple of weeks. I've heard that the EPI severe duty belts reduce your top mph, is this true? Are they any better than the Polaris brand? Anyone try a Carlise Ultimax belts(UA426)? Always seem to work the best on my snowmobile and they have a 1yr warranty.

 

RacerX, I haven't heard that about the EPI belts, I have used one for about the last 4500 miles with great sucess, I only replaced one to get a broken in belt for my spare. I would call them about this,a great group,
John

 

If it is your stock primary and it hasnt been rebuilt, then it could be toast. You can send your primary to Dirty Dawg to be rebuilt or do it yourself. Or you can buy another one for like 400 bucks. I personally have two, one that is rebuilt in case the one on the rig goes out.

 

your primary shaft bearing is probably shot, causing the hard shifting.

 

Is that the "two way bearing?"

 

Anyone have any info on which primary spring to run for 26" tires and 3-6k elevation?

 

Call Dale at DDP...

 

A clutch kit will improve the performance of your RZR for your specific application. This applies to all RZR's, stock or not. From the factory they are calibrated to meet everyones needs: the duners, the mudders, the putters, etc. It is set up to do all of that "OK". Additionally, in your case, clutching can compensate for the larger than stock tires you are running. I would imagine that is the main reason your buddies' RZR is faster.

I agree with the rest that you should inspect your clutches, but at 1000 miles on a stock(N/A) machine you shouldn't be needing to replace parts. Just my .02

AS far as Dale's kit being expensive? Well, you get what you pay for: excellent service and an abundance of clutching knowledge. He talked me through the entire kit and how it should be set up before I purchased anything from him. I just called to ask some questions. There are other options out there, but that's up to you to decide. The general consensus on here is that Dale knows his stuff.

 

Anyone have a recommendation on just a spring? I plan on replacing both springs and if there are better options than stock I would like some advice.

 

If you change springs, you have to change weights as well.

 

A complete, new secondary? I thought it included a primary spring, secondary spring, helix, and adjustable weights. Ive never talked to him, I could be mistaken? Nothing against DDP or any other clutch kit maker for that matter, Im just looking for some cheap alternatives and thought that replacing the primary spring with something a little different might help.

 

Huh, when I got mine from him it came with a new "Roller" secondary clutch, which has the spring already assembled in it.