Remove the belt and check the bearing in the primary clutch. In between the sheaves where the belt sits. I am guessing it’s not moving as freely as it should.

Go to Hunterworks website. Tons on tech articles and videos on clutches.


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Sub’d


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To do it right....remove both clutches and covers and check everything out. You could be past due for a rebuild. It’s not cheap but cheaper than replacing both. I blow mine out but also clean with soap and water every 3 or 4 rides.
Once clean- Primary-you can check rollers for flat spots or wobble-Weights to see if they are hitting on the sides by the rollers. Buttons can be replaced. The bearing mentioned above may need cleaned and greased.
The secondary varies by type and year but is less critical than the primary if kept clean. If you haven’t done it and don’t want to drop a lot of $$ look for a riding companion that has the tools and knowledge.

 

Here is a link to a tech article with pictures to help you figure it out

https://www.hunterworks.com/grinding_into_gear_creeping


Todd

 

Thanks for your input, Todd. I've inspected the alignment and it appears to be like photo #2. Dirt. I blew out the primary and I love brake cleaner so I'll give that a try too.

You mentioned in this video that it can be done while on the RZR.

https://www.hunterworks.com/primary_basic_cleaning_video

Can I get the cover plate off the primary without any special tools? Or maybe a home made tool? I've got a lot of McGuvyer in me.

 

Yes you can, just remove center bolt and six screws. You can leave center bolts but be careful getting cover off so you don't scratch bushing in it. I would remove center bolt.

 

Finally got around to working on this.

I took the cover off the primary. The sheaves were stuck. I managed to gently work it open but it wouldn't close. So off the primary came. I don't have a socket for the castle nut yet so I'm stuck again. There seems to be a faint rattle when I shake it. I doubt that is a good sign.

 

The rattle would likely be the weights-normal. You don’t need to remove the nut and Spider except to service the center bearing or replace the 6 pucks on the Spider.
My last 3 RZR’s had Loctite on the threads so to get the nut and Spider off require heat and 3 separate tools. Lock Nut Tool, Spider tool and the plate that you sit the clutch on to keep it fixed. You will probably need a 5-6’ cheater bar, the parts require a lot of force to remove.

 

I really don't have the desire to tear into these systems. Local dealer said the primary probably isn't worth fixing but they could help with the secondary.

The rattle I hear in the primary is not the weights.

 

The balance marks are normally on the movable sheave, I have moved several when using the plate style hence the new tool

 

I’ve had a lot of clutches with balance marks on the inner sheave and face plate. I don’t remember the terminology but a good balance is rotational (spin balance) and end to end. That’s what my machine shop guy does. Might be called harmonic and dynamic balance. All of my Polaris snowmobile clutches were balanced that way and at least some of my RZR’s.
The often overlooked downside to clutch balance can be a change in weights. In the past factory weights were spec’d at +- 1 gram. Any change of weights or removing and changing the position could throw the clutch out of balance. The more a mass is located from the center-the more exponential the affect on balance. Even clutch cover bolts don’t weigh the same. Any of those may have more impact on balance than movement of the inner clutch sheave. The X alignment marks are the only controllable part and the most important.
Since there are no shims to adjust belt side clearance, I just had my Spider machined .065 to get rid of the harsh engagement...more balance change in relation to the inner sheave since all components in relation to the sheave are now moved.
Now when I get done with clutch weight tuning I’ll have it balanced. Necessary on these lower RPM (well balanced internally) engines, maybe not???

 

I like the idea of machining a spider down for faster and better engagement and we can just make a belt wider too but the issue for the masses is alignment. When you make the tolerance that tight more people can run into that.

On a one on one basis when you have the capability I think it is awesome

Todd