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Cleaning cluthes in place

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5.6K views 14 replies 7 participants last post by  Justintoxicated  
#1 ·
Recently found one of my clutches not releasing the belt during idle. I'd like to clean them without removing them. Two reasons. One, I don't have a clutch puller for the primary. And two, even if I did get both off. I wouldn't feel comfortable tearing the clutches apart to clean them. Can I get a decent clean this way?

I found this online. It's for a 800 rzr I think but the only difference is where the clutches are. Nyroc's ATV info website

What does everyone think.

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#3 ·
Recently found one of my clutches not releasing the belt during idle. I'd like to clean them without removing them. Two reasons. One, I don't have a clutch puller for the primary. And two, even if I did get both off. I wouldn't feel comfortable tearing the clutches apart to clean them. Can I get a decent clean this way?





If you don't take the clutches off you can get some but not all of the derbis out of the clutches...

Taking them off and micro cleaning them is the correct way to prolong your clutch life...
:) :) :)
 
#5 · (Edited)
Which tools are required for removing the primary? I already made my own secondary spring compression tool. I guess the real question is, on your primary tools page, do I still need the spider nut tool (Is it different from the secondary tool I made) I'm going to guess yes but want to be sure, also it says it is required for the XP4, but I just have an XP1000, I can't imagine that would matter but the way it is phrased is confusing.
 
#8 ·
Nope you can clean the hell out of it off the machine. I think doing the spider is a little overkill for the $ you spend on the tools. The torque is crazy high on it.

I pull my primary before and after dune season and clean it very good and just blow them out inbetween those times.

Sent from the dune in front of you
 
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#9 ·
When you get the primary off you'll see there's gunk on the shaft where the sheves move in and out on, cause your primary to not operate like it should. I use carb cleaner and scotch bright pad and my clutches look and operate like new when they go back on.

Sent from the dune in front of you
 
#12 · (Edited)
I've seen brake cleaner used most often to clean. You can make a clutch puller for about $15 if you have a hardware store. 1ft of 3/4 16 TPI (Fine thread) threaded rod and 2 nuts (I epoxied the nuts to the rod) is a clutch puller. There is a youtube video that shows it too. Works great, I did that myself. You may want to call around for the threaded rod as most do not have fine thread that big. My local Fastenal hooked me up.

Once it is off, I'd make sure the primary bearing spins free and the clutch plate moves back and forth freely. Then scrub everything and use a scotch brite pad on the plates.

To completely disassemble the primary you are looking at a spider nut too, spider tool, and a clutch mount/holder. The holder is a must. You will also need a torque wrench that goes to 300ftlbs (not easy to find local!), red/green lock tite, and a vice is very, very handy to hold the clutch mount. If you can borrow a torque wrench you are still looking at ~$200 to disassemble the clutch. I'd try to just pull the clutch and clean it without disassembly first and see if that works before investing in the tools.