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Cheap dome light, fuse block, and switch panel

5.9K views 8 replies 6 participants last post by  torched  
#1 · (Edited)
I just finished this set up. It's not the best out there, but at least it is functional and cheap.

The first thing I did was upgrade to the Optima Marine battery I splurged a bit on this one, but I freakin hate getting stuck out in the Alaska bush with no start power ($160 Costco). It took a while to figure out that to install the battery box ($50) I got off ebay I had to cut out the old tray and move around the main wire harness, but it went in easy enough and fits well.

For the switch plate I cut out the RZR plastic with a jigsaw. Then I cut out a piece of clear plastic I got at Lowes just a bit larger than the opening. Cut out the appropriate holes for the switches and painted the back side black so that the front would have a very clean even look. I used some #10 stainless hex screws to fasten it. The switches are marine grade Philmore rocker switches rated for 20 amps. The dealer had installed some lame switches when he installed my heater, so I decided to rewire the fan into my new panel.

I attached the fuse block next to the stock block. Beside it I installed a 50 amp relay. I decided to use the relay before the block so that all of the attached switches would power up only when the key was turned. I am not sure if this is how you are supposed to do it, but it seems to work great. I used the extra wire from the cigarette lighter to trip the relay. I ran a thick guage wire from the battery for power.

I was looking around for a while for some sort of interior LED dome light, but everything was way expensive. It seemed like they ranged from $30 for a lame one to $150 for the best ones. I couldn't figure out how bright they would be anyway. I found these LED driving lights at Walmart. They are called Platinum Burners by Optronics. They seem a bit on the flimsy side, but they were cheap ($25) and bright enough. I decided they were inexpensive enough that if they break I can try something else. I used one for the dome light and the other I reversed to use as a backup/cargo light. The system worked out way better than I expected. I also put some inexpensive driving lights I got off ebay on the front.

I ran power to two 130w 4" lights from snappy lights on ebay. I installed them in front of the radiator. They were only $35 for the two, but they are very bright and seem to be fairly well built.

My next project is a skidplate. I purchased a 4 X 10 sheat 3/8 UHMW locally for $320 seemed expensive, but I talked him down from $360. Prices ranged from $360- $650 per sheet so I figured there was room to move on it. I plan on starting this weekenend.
 

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#5 ·
Looks great. I like the fact the switches almost match the factory ones. Is the led light bright enough for a back up light? I was just fixing to start looking for a low profile back up light. Thanks for sharing :)
 
#7 ·
I got the switches, relay and fuse block and wiring from a local electronics store here in Anchorage called Fridged North. I don’t think most cities have this type of store, but it is something like a Radio Shack on steroids without the toys and stereo equipment. I think you should be able to find most of these items at a radio shack or a marine store. The switches I used are a close match to the factory ones. I suspect that they are made at the same factory. If you need UPC numbers or something let me know. You could surely find the parts online somewhere.

The LED cargo/backup light is just bright enough. Its not going to light up the whole world back there, but should be enough to back out of a sticky situation. I am going to use it to aid in snowplowing my driveway at night. I was considering buying an additional set of lights to mount on the bed. I don’t think it will be necessary though. Before I mounted the backup light I waited till dark and tested it. If you decided you needed more light you could easily and cheaply add another set of those driving lights on the back. It would be no problem to wire them in the same line as the cargo light. Because they are LED they would only use like 5 amps so 18 gauge wire is plenty.
 
#8 ·