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Discussion Starter #1
Here is an easy and CHEAP fix for the carrier bearing in all the RZRs with 2 pc. driveshafts. You will need to remove the carrier bearing from the RZR to do the fix. Your carrier must have good rubber inside it. This fix also works on the Toyota carrier that some use.

First, we find it easiest to twist the carrier sideways to walk it off the bearing once you have the 2 shafts separated. This will leave the actual bearing on the driveshaft which you will have to knock off with a hammer.

Second, drill some holes around the outer perimeter of the carrier housing to squirt 100% silicone in. This will fill the void pocket that makes the rubber so soft. It will harden after a few days and be like a solid piece of rubber. This will take out all the play, but keep the harmonics from transferring. You will be able to install it after it sets up over night though. Just give it a few days before riding the RZR.

Third, remove the 2 rings from the old bearing. Obtain a new 6006-RS bearing from Ebay. They are cheap! We have found that these cheap bearings hold up fine. BUT, you need to pop out one of the rubber seals and pack it with waterproof grease. These hold up to Z1 power as well as the mud and water we run in. Install the 2 rings from the old bearing. Install the bearing back in the rubber carrier.

Final, put the shafts back in the tunnel. install the carrier on the shaft. We use a short piece of pipe to tap the bearing on the shaft. It must just clear the OD of the shaft and tap on the inner race of the bearing. This is important that it goes all the way on. Now make sure you have the driveshafts phased correctly. The new shafts only go together one way as they have a master spline.

Hope this helps out and puts some money back in your pocket. No need for those expensive carriers.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Been doing it this way for over 3 years with no failures since before anything came out. It works well.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Remove the rings with screwdriver and hammer. We usually have it out anyways to change to a new bearing.
 

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Did mine when new. 1200 miles all good so far.
 

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Someone should make a DIY video of how to do it while still in the vehicle.
 

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I pulled the console off and my rubber is still good so that's some mental reassurance. About 400 miles and still stiff from the silicone. Going to pull it apart and put in a new bearing for good measure next week.

If someone wants, I can make a few videos with my phone replacing the bearing. It'll be multiple videos as I don't have any video editing software.
 

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Doesn't matter how good your rubber is. If the bearing goes the rubber goes with it guaranteed. A good bearing with grease will last longer than that crappy dry ass stock thing. But if you're adding silicon and not good grease you're wasting your time
 

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I replaced mine with a UCP206-30MM pillow clock bearing. Industrial grease able, has lasted 4 years ! $12.00 to $24.00, depends if you get steal, stainless, or aluminum housing.
 

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I replaced mine with a UCP206-30MM pillow clock bearing. Industrial grease able, has lasted 4 years ! $12.00 to $24.00, depends if you get steal, stainless, or aluminum housing.
I've thought about a pillow block but they're not designed for any lateral movement. Concerned that it might bend the drive shaft on a hard bounce. 4 years pretty impressive.
 

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Discussion Starter #20
We have these in done in Z1 RZRs for 3 years and no problems.

I did use a pillow block in my custom build Z1 bouncer I did over a year ago. Of course it has a 1/2 ton driveshaft in it too so had to have something solid.
 
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