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Discussion Starter #21
Well I see I am not alone.
I have heard "Properly torqued".
I am torquing to 100 ft-lbs then continuing to the next open slot which ends up being about 115 to 120 Ft-Lbs.
The cotter pin was close to being sheered off so I went to a nail (12P if I recall).
The nor turns against the nail and it is difficult to tap out.

I am going to try the 18+ thick washer.

Thanks for all the replies.
Much appreciated.

Mike
 

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I have a 900 and my washers are a little concave now are the thick 18+ washers less prone to this? where is a good place to get new washers?
 

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I have a 900 and my washers are a little concave now are the thick 18+ washers less prone to this? where is a good place to get new washers?
That's exactly what the thick washers are meant to cure. You can get the OEM part from any Polaris part's dealer, like RMATV or the like, but the Fastenal part number is also floating around in a few places on the forum, it's cheaper to get them there
 

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Question ???
By design, does the hub bottom out against the shoulder on the outer stub of the CV? Thus you are torquing hub to CV
Or
Does the hub bottom out against the inner race of the bearing and apply torque through the bearing to the bearing carrier?
All of that to ask this. Could changing CVs and washers be affecting this?
I have never really given this thought until I read this post.
 

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Just greased my wheel bearings a month ago, same problem in rear. Had to nip off the cotter pin legs to get a socket on and tighten a bit to remove the cotter pin. Torqued to spec at 110 ft/lbs for me.

@RZR_Joe
This is the way I was taught to install a cotter pin, coming from an aviation background. Less likely for the legs of the cotter pin to snag anything and get/cause damage.
 

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Just greased my wheel bearings a month ago, same problem in rear. Had to nip off the cotter pin legs to get a socket on and tighten a bit to remove the cotter pin. Torqued to spec at 110 ft/lbs for me.
This is the way I was taught to install a cotter pin, coming from an aviation background.
Stock axles on a 50" 900 correct?

Question ???
By design, does the hub bottom out against the shoulder on the outer stub of the CV? Thus you are torquing hub to CV
Or
Does the hub bottom out against the inner race of the bearing and apply torque through the bearing to the bearing carrier?
All of that to ask this. Could changing CVs and washers be affecting this?
I have never really given this thought until I read this post.
That's a great question....I'm gonna have to ponder that for a bit since I'm a long way away from my rzr for the week... I think it sandwhiches it all together, or at least I always have thought that... doesn't mean I paid any attention to it tho lol
 

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Stock axles on a 50" 900 correct?



That's a great question....I'm gonna have to ponder that for a bit since I'm a long way away from my rzr for the week... I think it sandwhiches it all together, or at least I always have thought that... doesn't mean I paid any attention to it tho lol
Actually stock axles on an S 900. And I have read somewhere where the thicker washers didn't fit properly in certain hubs. And the concave washers are designed that way.

Sent from my S9+ using Tapatalk Pro
 

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Missed the “S” in your signature lol

That means it’s not just the Turbo / XP axle then.... and mine had done it with both stock and aftermarket axles, even with new wheel bearings...
 

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Discussion Starter #30
I forgot to add, I have a 2016 RZR900 Trail 50 which has the Super ATV RZR S conversion with Rhino 2.0 Axles.

Mike
 

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Even though the hub is splined onto the axle there is always going to be a slight amount of movement or “twist” allowed of the axle inside the hub. So the constant (very slight) twist back and forth is working to loosen the nut.

Having said that I think the reason we see the rears do it the most frequently is because of turning. Whenever you turn left or right the rear wheels fight against each other giving you that twist back and forth. I don’t believe braking has much or anything to do with it.

I also think that’s probably why Joe doesn’t seem to have the issues with it being a 4 seater it doesn’t get as sharp of a twist on the rear tires because his turning radius is much larger.

However, I’ve never seen any machine that was ridden hard not do it. I’ve seen the front loosen up against the cotter pin as well but normally it’s the rear.

The Ranger my Mom drives does not seem to do it which is why I made the comment I did above. But perhaps it’s just because she uses turf mode fairly frequently.


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@AJsRZR good comments, Mine is an XPT4 as well tho, but you still may be hitting on sketching still, it’s something I’ll be paying extra attention to since everything has been brought to light in this thread
 

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Just pulled them off again tonight, top pic is driver rear, bottom is passenger rear (I had already started removing the cotter pins, before I remembered this discussion) Front passenger has a small amount of twist, Cotter pin still moves freely in the front driver.

Going to use some orange thread lock on reassembly and see if anything is different next time.
643257


643258
 

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Just pulled them off again tonight, top pic is driver rear, bottom is passenger rear (I had already started removing the cotter pins, before I remembered this discussion) Front passenger has a small amount of twist, Cotter pin still moves freely in the front driver.

Going to use some orange thread lock on reassembly and see if anything is different next time. View attachment 643257

View attachment 643258
Thick washers and 180ft/lbs fixed me up.
 

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Well hopefully the thread lock will do it for you. But remember, torque specs are given on a dry fit so it will throw it off a little but no big deal.
 

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Just pulled them off again tonight, top pic is driver rear, bottom is passenger rear (I had already started removing the cotter pins, before I remembered this discussion) Front passenger has a small amount of twist, Cotter pin still moves freely in the front driver.

Going to use some orange thread lock on reassembly and see if anything is different next time. View attachment 643257
Wow, that cotter pin looks too small?
 

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Im going to guess he had already cut it for removal.
No, the first/top picture. The nut is backed off, the head is bent 45 degrees and one leg is above the castle, missed the slot. Either the pin is too small or else one of the washers is missing. Or both.

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Wow, that cotter pin looks too small?
It’s not, it’s the biggest that will fit in the hole, and the same size as the one in the other pic, the longer leg that looks like it missed the castle I had unfolded already, it was installed with the long leg bent back toward the head, parallel with the slots. When the nut spun, the edge of the castle went under the fold.

But that’s irrelevant to the issue, the cotter pin is just a safety, and it did its job. It’s not meant to hold the torque of the nut.
 
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