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Discussion Starter #1
I have read of others having the problem of the nut moving and sheering the cotter pin.
It was suggested to put in a nail in its place. I did this but the nut still moves and makes it almost impossible to get the nail out.
does anyone have a solution to keep this nut from moving?
What is everyone torquing this nut to? I am torquing to 110 FT-LBS

Any thoughts? This is frustrating.

Thanks,

Mike

642350
 

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Use the updated 18+ OEM thick washer and torque to 120 ft/lbs and use the correct size cotter pin. They castle nut should never loosen, if it does then it was not torqued correctly or you have a bad wheel beating.
 

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The Lone Rzr
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There's been guys breaking axles by the castle nut.
My owner's manual as well as service manual says 180 ft/lbs.
I do 120. I think 180 is too much
Had a friend sheer his cotter pin and wore his brake pad to the point it fell out of the caliper
Polaris gave him a new pin and seems too small and really soft
I put in an over size in mine that fits snug
 

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My rears are that way almost every time I pull them off actually, 120 or 180 ft-lb hasn't made a difference, pondering trying permatex's new orange threadlock next time.

I get them off by using an open ended wrench (since you can't get a socket on with the cotter pin in) and tightening just enough to get the pin out.... I don't have a solution or a reason as to why they do it....Mine did it with both stock axles, and Rhino 2.0's...I have the thick washers, and I've tried both torque values...even tried torquing to 180 then backing off to the previous notch in the nut, did it with brand new wheel bearings too. It has to happen under hard braking, only time the wheel bearing see force (resistance) in that direction. I agree with Joe that improper torque or a bad wheel bearing would cause it....but i feel I've eliminated both of those causes every time, and it still happens...so I'm at a loss...
 

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Mine does the same thing. Only in the rear, and I run in 4wd all the time. You can tap the pins with a hammer enough to get a socket on the nut and hit it tighter a bit to get them out. Mine were like that the first time I took them off from the factory and every time since. I torque mine to 110lbs. 180 is absurd.
 

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Hmmm, how are you guys folding over the cotter pin?. I spread them opposite direction and wrap them around the nut in both directions. This prevents any movement and never had this happen. I also don't use OEM cotter pins. I use a slightly larger pin that fits snuggly.
 

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Hmmm, how are you guys folding over the cotter pin?. I spread them opposite direction and wrap them around the nut in both directions. This prevents any movement and never had this happen. I also don't use OEM cotter pins. I use a slightly larger pin that fits snuggly.
The same, also with a larger pin. The nut actually spins back and binds up on the pin, so it actually deforms it a bit from where I install it even. It doesn't come loose, but it backs off just enough to bind on the pin..which also throws the torque spec off really, but the pin still holds it. EZ's buddy is the only one I've heard of where it actually broke the pin and came loose tho.
 

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Regardless of bigger cotter pin something is incorrect. A cotter pin is only a safety device for if hardware/clamp up fails so the nut can’t back all the way off, not intended to hold a nut in place at torque. Also unless I’m way off base and there are instructions otherwise never torque high and then back off and expect hardware to hold. On the aviation side at least the only process similar to that would be a higher torque to seat something then a back off and then torque to your lower value in the tightening direction. The only way this should be happening is if something in the clamp up is wearing and losing material/deforming, dissimilar metals in the hardware reacting differently In the environment/conditions ie heat cycles, incorrect materials/grip strength for the torque value causing fatigue of threads.

Not directly saying you guys are doing something wrong, could be a process or materials thing


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That's how I've set preload on trailer wheel bearings and race cars for years lol. It's not at all proper for this application, but I had to try it just to see what the hell was up. You're spot on in what you say, just can't figure out what the hell it is, obviously it's the opposite of what Joe's doing tho lol, just can't figure out what specifically, pretty much everything between our machines has been the same in that regard.
 

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Any RZR that’s rode hard will experience this. The only people not having this issue are those that baby their machines. Unfortunately I’m unaware of any real solution at this point in time.


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Any RZR that’s rode hard will experience this. The only people not having this issue are those that baby their machines. Unfortunately I’m unaware of any real solution at this point in time.


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I think @RZR_Joe is going to disagree with you on that one..... now it could be directly related to high speed braking, which he may not see a lot of, but babying is not in his scope of use.
 

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I’ve never had mine loosen up. I always torque to 180 ft lbs(with a good torque wrench) and use a cotter pin that fits snug. For my oem thin stacked dome washers that was a 3/16 cotter pin. For the thicker Fastenal washers it was 5/32 cotter pins. I’m now installing RS1 washers so I have no idea what size that will be. I usually have to tap on the head with a rubber mallet gently to seat them all the way. Once they are tapped in tight and the legs folded over, I take a small punch against the legs and punch them tight against the nut.

I put my cotter pins in so one leg folds out across the top of the axle stub and snip the other one which folds in perpendicular to the nut. If you put cotter pins in this way the head will seat further into the castellation of the nut. By the time I get them folded over and punched tight there is zero play in the cotter pin. I have been told this method works better and so far I’ve had zero issues. I’ve tried them the other way(mentioned above) and the cotter pins will never pull as tight and always have some twisting motion. I also like doing it the other way because due to the profile of a cotter pin you can usually get one 1/32 larger to fit.

Also, not all cotter pins are created equal.

All that being said I do very little riding above 50 mph so maybe it’s speed related.
 

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All that being said I do very little riding above 50 mph so maybe it’s speed related.
It's not cotter pin related at all, only difference the cotter pin makes is if it can still hold the nut after it backs off, and minus that case EZ mentioned, I haven't seen any other ones break the cotter pin.
 

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The Lone Rzr
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My frie
I would think if it were related to braking the driver side would loosen and the passenger side tighten.
My friend's rzr had it happen on the rear driver's side
His friend that he rides with says he sees it happen all the time but he used to race them too. He even leaves his wheel dust caps off so he can look at the castle nut before every ride.
Polaris dealer gave him OEM cotter pin and said it had a special tensile strength. I didn't measure it but it had to be half the width of the hole and when I trimmed off the ends it was super EZ to cut.
I think having a snug fit pin gives the nut less chance to back off.
 

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I would think if it were related to braking the driver side would loosen and the passenger side tighten.
I didn't think of that...but you're right...and it's my driver's side that's backed off all the time...I'm going to start paying more attention to this phenomenon now...
 
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