So are you saying you can turn the outer (front) sheave independant of the inner (back) sheave? And that when you do do it's is threads onto your puller? Just making sure I am understanding what you are saying. Only 2 ways the outer sheave will turn independant of the inner sheave..1) spider nut and spider loosened and are turning on the shaft(which is part of the inner "stationary" sheave..) or 2..the stationary sheave shaft has broken.. This '"shaft" is what your puller is threaded into an pulling on.
Look at the shaft that the spider nut threads onto..if it is turning but the inner stationary sheave is not..you've broken it.which is what it's sounding like to me. But it is strange that the puller would still be tight unless it broke somewhere between besides at the end of the threads..try removing your puller and see if the outer sheve and the part of the shaft will come off..should e obvious if it does that it broke. Good luck.

 

Yes you are correct but when I have to put force to back the puller off it tightens back up and u cant move it. I even tried to wedge the back sheave and turn the front and couldnt do it. Thinking that I could atleast get the stock out of the crank if the front come off.

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What happens when you just try to remove the puller? Im trying to follow..does the puller start backing out then tighten up?

 

If so are you using the "front"sheave/basket to keep the clutch from turning while you try to remove the puller? If so and the shaft is broken that could be causing the now 2 piece threaded shaft to act as a jam nut. Another possibility is galled threads. Is the shaft that spider nut is screwed on turning? If so you broke the shaft..and if that's the case you are probably going to have to secure the crank from turning by other means than the outer sheave in order to get the puller out.
I know you said you wedged the back sheave and couldn't get it out..was that before or after it had already tightened up? If it was before then id suspect a thread problem..if it was after try loosing the front sheave then secure the rear sheve and the try backing the puller out. Again think jam nut..if you try it with the 2 pieces of the shaft tightened together ( againASSuming it is broken) they may be acting like jam nut on the puller

 

Just went through that same thing ended up cutting off.. Good luck as i was frustrated as hell!

 

How did you cut it off I am thinking of going to have to take that with it with mine I don’t know how to go about it

 

This will make the third time ive taken my clutch off. First two times not really a problem. This time a different story.

I dont have a clutch puller and can not find a 3/4" Fine thread anywhere in town with enough threads. So I used a trailer hitch ball and a piece of stock....it works or did the first two times. Lol. Ive had it so tight that the actuall stock has wore into the trailer hitch ball about a 1/4 inch. I backed it out and put a socket inbetween the stock and ball and the socket mushroomed

I quit messing with it when I thought it broke loose but actually I just seperated the "clutches" from the back wheel. You could free spin the clutch up the ball. But ball was still tight against stock/crank. Please tell me I didn't just ruin my clutch.

I dont know what else to try I got it as tight as possible and tapped it with rubber hammer. Im going to do my best to find a hard bolt and use an impact hoping it will pop it off. Oh yea the stock is stuck in the crank as well.

Any ideas? Is heat an option? PB blast? Bigger hammer? Is my clutch ok since it separated? Thanks

"I thought it broke loose but actually I just seperated the "clutches" from the back wheel. You could free spin the clutch up the ball. But ball was still tight against stock/crank. "

Since there is no way to 'separate' these without unscrewing the spider, you didn't break it loose, you broke your clutch, by using the incorrect puller. Hopefully you didn't damage your crank also.

Anyhow, to now get it off the crank you will have to get your hitch ball out of the front clutch piece that broke off. Don't worry about damaging it, its toast already. Then see if there are enough threads left in the remaining part of the clutch that stays on the crank to use the correct puller to get that back sheave off. If not, you'll probably have to hack it off. Be careful about applying massive pressure to the crank nose...
jmo

 

I haven't had the clutch get stuck on my rzr but on sleds when they were stuborn we'd run the puller down good and tight and the give a few smacks on the end of the puller with a good sized ball peen hammer and they'd jump right off. Never had one not come off doing this. Dont hit the clutch just the puller. Hope this helps.

 

Yup, that works when you are using the correct puller.

But when using some 'stock and a hitch ball', good chance if the stock doesn't center perfectly on the crank and jams up against the side of the clutch, off center on the crank, all the pressure will be transferred to pulling the clutch apart, instead of off the crank.
The first hint something was not going quite right was...
"stock has wore into the trailer hitch ball about a 1/4 inch"

jmo

 

I'm with allcool on this one. I say he busted his clutch, and possibly damaged his crank snout, damn I hope not! :scared2:

 

Ya pry should've clarified. Don't beat the thing like it owe's you money and like allcool said it doesn't take much to jack a crank up and the 800 crank doesn't seem to be the strongest crank ever made thats for sure. I know when we used to race in the msdra circuit it was pretty normal to pull a primary 10+ times getting everything set as close to perfect as possible and we never had one crank issue but that was always using the correct puller and only using a hammer when you had no other choice. I definately wouldn't go any further until you have the correct puller. You might not be able to save your clutch at this point but you may be able to save your crank.

 

I dont think its broke. When I applied force the other way to get ball out the front sheave "tightened" back up. I was trying to get ball out and leave it loose where I could see my piece of stock and get it out. But couldnt find any other way to hold the crank still while I removed the ball. I dont think I damaged anything just yet. The only thing im worried about is if that stock has made it to the threads inside the end of the crank. But im pretty sure they have'nt. Im going to try to find a hard bolt and use impact this afternoon.

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I like being thrifty and making tools and finding little hacks is cool and all but theres a time and place for everything and when dealing with parts that are a fortune as it is and already prone to enough issues using the correct tools id have definitely bought and used a puller.

On a brighter side I just replaced my clutch last year when i had the same thing happen off the machine attempting to break free the spider nut in order to rebuild the clutch and it cost me just shy of 400 bucks for a brand new 2010 800 S clutch I went with the 2010 primary for its lack of the 1 way bearing that was the whole reason for needing to rebuild my clutch in the first place.

Ill have to look but I dont know if i chucked the old clutch for scrap or if its on a shelf but the hollow shaft the puller threads into broke on mine and it sounds as though the same happened to you.