Remove the stock hydraulic tensioner and screw in the mechanical tensioner...

I remove the valve cover to watch how much tension I apply as I screw it in...

 

Just curious...

Thinking about picking up a cam tensioner soon... What's involved with the install?

Remove the stock hydraulic tensioner and screw in the mechanical tensioner...

I remove the valve cover to watch how much tension I apply as I screw it in...

Make sure the oil seal is on the new tensioner before you install it ...

Also make sure the old seal isn't left on the engine when you removed the stock tensioner!!!

It's a thin metal o-ring seal...

 

I see boondocker makes an auto... I like auto!

Anyone use theirs yet and how much was it?

 

X2, I'am on the fence on which one to purchase also.


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Bump,,,,,,,Anyone


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You already have a hydraulic / auto tensioner from the factory why would you replace it with a like item???

 

Is something wrong with the factory hydraulic one?

 

On a built engine (Turbo'd, ProCharger or Big Bore N/A) they allow the timing chain to jump and skip timing...

 

The Only reason I'am looking to buy one, is to stop the cold start rattle, other then that I'am having no problems with the factory one. I may just leave mine alone, polaris doesn't think the cold start rattle is a problem, it's normal they say. Lol


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The Only reason I'am looking to buy one, is to stop the cold start rattle, other then that I'am having no problems with the factory one. I may just leave mine alone, polaris doesn't think the cold start rattle is a problem, it's normal they say. Lol

Don't spend your money on a mechanical tensioner or any other tensioner, it's not going to stop the cold start rattle...

 

10/4, thanks i appreciate it


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Leaving for the dunes in the AM but when I get back after Dunefest I will get a picture of one.

 

i had same problem on my 900. itried some lucas synthetic oil addative. it stopped even on really cold mornings..i think i used 1/4 of the pint..

 

I have the boondocker also, it's a clicker style tensioner (similar or same as the honda tensioner), very reliable and needs no adjustment whatsoever. When your cam chain slider wears or chain stretches it will automatically tighten to the next click and so on. Simple yet perfect IMO. It has helped a ton with the diesel rattle at startup. And yes it can be for everybody, I have a friend that had his 1k in the shop for backfiring etc, come to find out it jumped timing. He gets it back, within minutes it does it again, we re-time the ex cam, take my old tensioner, pre fill it with oil, put it in his, upon startup it jumps 3 teeth on the exhaust cam. Called a friend at polaris and he advises us to re time the cams, and manually roll the motor over a couple times, (while holding the cam chain on the cams by hand) guess it seats the chain better because now it's staying in time... If you ever see the cam chain on the cams you will see how loose these things are and know why I'm recommending a manual. With that being said, they are a necessity IMO. Between them jumping time at startup and the fact that if you put the machine on it's side and lose oil pressure, you will no longer have to worry about the valve train jumping time or if the bike will even start to get you home.


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"Are you sure the 1356 doesn't have an anti drain back valve?"

Yes.

It's a simple matter to prove this to yourself. Go to NAPA and have the counter person pull each oil filter from shelf stock -- Unbox and inspect. It will then be crystal clear which does and which does not have the anti drain back valve.

The WIX is the same filter -- It just has a 5 in front of the filter number.

:ride:

 

"Are you sure the 1356 doesn't have an anti drain back valve?"



Yes.



It's a simple matter to prove this to yourself. Go to NAPA and have the counter person pull each oil filter from shelf stock -- Unbox and inspect. It will then be crystal clear which does and which does not have the anti drain back valve.



The WIX is the same filter -- It just has a 5 in front of the filter number.



:ride:

Napa website says 1356 has anti- drain back valve. ????

 

Well I just picked up 2 of the wix 51356xp filters and they do have the red blatter in them for the anti drain back.

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They all do -- Has nothing to do with the anit-drain back feature - Of the oil draining back from the center of the filter.

51356/1356 oil filter -- As one looks into the filter thru the center mounting hole -- One can see the filter media -- And when installing -- One pre-fills the filter with oil.

51357/1357 oil filter -- Perform the same visual test -- You can't see the filter media as there is a valve close to the top of the filter and is steel encased to the top of the filter. This filter cannot be pre filled with oil. If memory serves me it takes about 8 PSI of oil pressure to open the spring valve allowing oil then to flow into the filter. Shut the engine off and that spring closes retaining all the oil in the filter.

Remove the filter from the engine and it is noticeably heavier than the 51356/1356 oil filter as it retains all it's oil. Conversely -- using the 51356/1356 oil filter will drain all it's oil back into the crankcase and the filter is dry upon removal.

Another test -- Upon an oil/filter change -- Using the 51356/1356 filter .. .. After initial start and letting the engine sit for a few hours -- Check your oil level.

Perform this same test using the 51357/1357 filter and after initial engine start and after a few hours sitting -- Check the oil level.

Notice any difference on the dipstick ?? ??

I reported on this several years ago as there was so much confusion on the 800 engine and it's oil level on the dipstick -- I always perform this test and re-mark each and every dipstick using both oil filters.

:ride:

 

I bought 1356 because it said on website it had anti drain back. Definitely gonna check into this. Thanks.