Get a UHMW skid plate and a-arm guards,

 

If you have extra $$$ you might as well go ahead and do the whole air filter box replacement with a UMP or KMS set-up, maybe beef up the frame with a UTVinc. gusset kit, get the clutch right if you put on bigger tires or add some horsepower. The list could go on and on.

 

HOLZ mounts!! I had them on the list but kept saying it will be next. At 500 miles my block mount was cracked. This should be somewhere at the top of the list IMO. There is definetly more vibrations but the smiles are still there.

 

Grease your suspension with high temp MOLY grease. It will be black in color. Moly is designed for sliding surfaces that need something that cakes up rather than liquefy like a bearing grease. It last a lot longer and you will notice it only takes a couple pumps to refill each pivot because the grease stays put. My xp now has 2500 very hard miles on it and although I've worn out multiple sets of wheel bearings I'm still on original control arm bushings.

 

Ill add factory wheel bearings are junk. I can barely get 500 miles on a set of them.
I'm having pretty good luck with moose bearings and hear pivot works are pretty good too.

Gates Carbon belts are half the cost of Polaris and I've read multiple threads where guys day they work great.

Remove your shock pivot orings and bushings once in a while. Clean, oil and pack with grease to keep the annoying squeaks away.

If you ride in wet conditions the stock air intake locations suck in mud. Found mine half plugged after 1 good mud ride and lucks it didn't get past the element and blow my motor. There are lots of different air intake options you could buy. I just removed the restrictive sir baffle and with 3" PVC made my own hi flow kit that pills air in from inside the bed behind my back window. My filters last 10x longer now meaning I have 10x less chances of dirt not getting past the filter element too. I'm now rebuilding my clutch and learned the belt intake is just as important. Gonna put a outerwear Pre filter on that.

 

It's funny somebody has not made a better hub and bearing set up for these yet. Something with a more common bearing size would be nice.

I purchased a Gates carbon belt as a spare. Will be interesting to see how it works. In the sled world it is tough to beat the factory belts.

Yeah the squeak was the first thing I fixed on this thing. Pulled apart, cleaned them and greased them. Nice and quiet now. That sound would have drove me crazy!!

 

I can't wait to hear how those greaseable steel ball joints from super Dave's hold up. There on my list.

 

Came with the skid plate and arm protectors

 

Definately reinforce the a-arm tabs on the front suspension where they connect at frame. These are known for shearing off. Also do this to the upper shock mounts. Motor mounts have previously been mentioned. Something also need to be done with the reverse chain, this will break and leave you stranded if you need to power out in reverse.

 

DoinIt also mentioned this. Looking on UTV Inc. sight there are a few different gusset kits. Any consensus on which kit best hits the weakest links without spending too crazy?

Is there any fix for the reverse chain yet?

 

Not looking for performance mods at this point. Just want things that should/can be done to make them more reliable.

 

?....these are not performance mods. Reverse chain IS a weak link and frame tabs are as well. Welding a simple reinforcement backing plate on the tabs will go a long way for reliabiliiy.

 

Ok I thought I would start a thread about mods that need to be done in order to make these Rzr's more bulletproof. From what I have read so far there is some weak links that could be improved upon. This will also vary a little based on what year your Rzr is.

First of all I had a centre bearing seize up on my new to me 2011 Rzr XP so I am installing a low profile pillow block with a NSK greasable bearing. While I have the driveshaft out I am having it trued and balanced and installing all new spicer 5-170x greasable ujoints.

I also have a little play in the front a-arm bushings and ball joints so I ordered today a set of Super Dave's front a-arm bushing kits along with 4 new steel ball joints with grease fittings also from Super Dave's.

I also ordered as spares 2 new pivot works wheel bearings to have on hand even though mine seem OK for now as I have 1700km on this thing.

I have installed outer wears on the intake covers for both the engine and clutches.

I am also considering ordering the Holz motor mounts just not sure if this is necessary yet. Any input on this would be appreciated.

That's all for now unless somebody can pass on any more must have bullet proofing mods/tricks.

HOLZ mounts!! I had them on the list but kept saying it will be next. At 500 miles my block mount was cracked. This should be somewhere at the top of the list IMO. There is definetly more vibrations but the smiles are still there.

Gonna order these right away. Would be curious as to how many have had problems with the 2011 mounts.

 

Is there any consensus as to what is the best grease for these things. I want to get another gun and buy some good tubes of grease for the Rzr. Then I'll have 1 gun for sled and another gun for the Rzr.

 

I mentioned the best grease above and why. I use a separate gun for it like you mentioned.

 

Any brand/brands better than others and where is a good place to buy it from?

 

A arm tab reinforcement and gusset for front end is necessary, I'm in the process of revamping my whole front end because of this weak point. Better add that one to the list, no ifs ands or buts. Bolt on is ok, but if you have the ability to weld I would go that route instead, I have HCR weld in kit that is laser cut and fits perfectly. Chromoly or go home.

 

That HCR kit looks real nice. Should hit the weak points and not break the bank. Do all the original bolts still work with all those doublers in there or do they need to be longer?

This is all been good info. Keep it coming!!

 

There are many brands, local auto parts stores will have it--as was mentioned high temp moly (CV grease) works nicely. DO NOT grease the super Dave's kit. It is not needed.

 

How are the dragon fire racing bolt in a arm/ front brace kit holding up?

This is the best topic yet. I'm having the exact same issues, crapy oem air filter, bad bushings, bearings. I just ordered super Dave bushings and ball joints as well. I am also looking at making my machine stronger before I make it faster. I have 1200kms and play in the oem bushings and a bent cv axle... I think cobra axles are the better upgrades as we'll, although I never personally tried them I just been reading great reviews on them.


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This is factory mounts after 400 miles or so

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seat belt brace after 1000 miles

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A arm sleeves after 500 -600 miles

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If you are comparing a couple brands just buy the one with the highest moly content. The grease in the tube will be a dark charcoal or black. You can find it at just about any Autoparts store that has a few different flavors of grease. It's not really all that expensive either. I use in vehicle steering components too, my 08 silverado with 168000 miles still has tight original tie rod ends.Just remember not use it in bearings because it cakes up.

 

I give a plug for Todd at Hunterworks.com for clutch replacements because he took the time to walk me thru every aspect of what to inspect on mine when I started having issues. Turns out I don't even need complete clutch replacements yet...but when I do; he earned my business.

 

I was looking at Hunter Works, great rep. and good pricing. I just didn't want to buy the clutch tools necessary to do it myself at this time.

 

Another weak point is the trailing arms.

Both of mine were bent, with the wheels turned out. Tried to straighten them but gave up and bought used ones from someone here on the forum that had just put on a long arm kit. Before installing those, I took a 18" piece of 3x3x1/8w tub steel, cut it in half and welded them on the outside of the arm, making sure that the gusset went from where the hub attached to a few inches in front of the shock mount. I must not have taken any pictures, because I don't have any to post. Sorry about that, not a good picture taker.

Car's at Alba's right now, getting clutch work and the new rebuild checked out and serviced.

 

Great ideas here already, I have had no problems with the stock air box yet, but being hard plastic and hearing of others warping after a while I was concerned... After Talking with Chris at American Rock Rods, they just changed their UMP system Donaldson air filter with about 1800 miles on it. He said it was still reasonably clean, after racing KOH, 2 trips or so to Glamis, trip to St. Anthony's and some desert runs.... That's pretty impressive and even at a little over $500 I just couldn't see not getting that system.... My sig shows my build sheet, it may give you some ideas.
Great thread idea, Thanks for posting!!!

 

It sure gets exhausting and expensive keeping these things together. Its good to share ideas that help keep costs as minimal as we can. I'm fixing and doing maintenance on about 17 different things on mine too, some are weak links, some are from the big ol pounding I give it every time we ride. Can am's have their fair share of problems I've seen first hand and bet articat does too. Lots of work but I love the damn thing. It somehow seems all worth it though when you can not only rip up the trails with one but then climb something that most guys only just sit at the bottom looking up at shaking their heads saying no f-ing way.

 

I dig on driving my ride, but I also like to challenge and experience of keeping it going. Even when you break it out on a ride and you kinda freak out about how your going to make it back to the truck and somehow you get it back and it all works out. It's an adventure...

 

I've said it before, but, this is the coolest toy I've ever owned, they can do amazing things. From Sand dunes ,desert, mud, mountain trails, tooling around, snow, climbing over boulders and just about any terrain ... It's a high performance machine and some things could have been built a little heavier here and there... The way I run mine I expect up keep and upgrades. I Love Mine!!! I do enjoy time in the garage with some tunes on tinkering on it.
(Not sure why some have belt issues, I've had none... I try to keep it in low gear under 15 or 20 mph when on trails...)

 

Any reviews on the dragon fire racing bolt in A-arm kit with extra skid protection?


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Any reviews on the dragon fire racing bolt in A-arm kit with extra skid protection?

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Are you talking about this?

Front Gusset Kit for RZR XP 900 | DragonFire Racing



If you are, then, yes, I got it and highly recommend it. My frame tabs where egging out, and this has stop/cured that problem as well as add strength.

Yes that's the kit... I just about bought it but they want over $100. For shipping to Canada.... A little much I think.


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Great thread, lots of good ideas... Thank you...

 

I just bought their kit and it showed up late last week. I am hoping to have it installed this week. I can say that all the brackets look nice but I wasn't stoked how they just throw all the hardware in the box and call it a day. I will let you know how it bolts on later this week.