First I would check all fluids before driving it. Several pumps of grease in all grease zerks. Make sure the air filter is installed. Polaris quality control is not as good as it should be.

Break in and first service follow the manual, that's what we did. Ride it in low gear for awhile on your first time out to break in the belt. I wouldn't run it continuously, get it hot, let it cool down, make sure the fan is working as it should. 2 tanks of fuel is only about 200 miles, take it easy get use to the machine before going 70 mph.

We had the dealer do the first service with Polaris products at 25 hours. I changed to Wix oil filter and Shell Rotella T6 after that. Still using Polaris fluids in the front and rear gear boxes. I changed to the R2C air filter, its washable.

We're at 2500 miles on a 2016 without any major issues.

Ride safe and have fun.

 

Only thing I would add to the first reply is to change the oil immediately. Every comprehensive engine break in procedure includes changing the oil after the initial start and warmup. The first start is where everything will self clearance and the most wear will happen in the shortest time.
Its my assumption they are sold with the original break in oil still in them.

 

I should start the engine, let it warm up (how many mins aprox?) turn it off and dump the original oil?

Do you move it a couple of miles or just the warm-up in idle?

Thanks for all the great advise! Will follow accordingly!

 

And check your upper radiator hose (drivers side). Mine was pushed into the fan housing and the fan blades cut through my line at 57 miles.

My front differential fluid was low and my rear was over filled. Compression clickers on shocks were all different left to right... many bolts were loose.

Basically, go over the entire vehicle if you can. Like mentioned, Polaris has poor QC.

 

The belt is the 1st thing I wanted to get seated. We got ours home, did a quick check-over, then took it out on the back roads about 35 miles, mostly in high gear. The next weekend, we took it to a local Offroad park. Ran it almost continuously in low range and in 4-wheel drive. The next weekend, I spent removing my axles, coating the inner & outer splines with anti-seize. I also gave the wheel bearings a good dose of grease with my Two Guys Hobby bearing greaser. I just had my 25 hour service done. This past weekend, I installed a Ricochet 1/2" UHMW full skid plate. Polaris skid plates offer very little protection. Look under you buggy. Things can come thru the floorboards and skewer your legs.

 

I just bought a new 1000 and only brake in I do is let it warm up before riding. I don't understand why u would change oil right away. It has a oil filter on it. Maybe if it was a lawn mower with no filter I could see it but sure sounds like flushing $ down the drain. That's like the Diesel truck guys changing oil at 3000 miles instead of 10000.

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk

 

Apparently you have never read about building performance engines?
Flushing $$$ down the drain?
You just spent $20K on a new machine and you wont spend $50 on a oil change? Sounds like CHEAP insurance to me.

 

Polaris says change it at 25 hours.
When you buy a new car they don't recommend changing it as soon as you get it home.
When you buy a diesel truck they don't recommend changing the oil as soon as you get it home.
New engines come with the oil that the manufacturer thinks it needs for break in.

Yes I have built high performance engines. But they were rebuilt from used engines and were hot tanked to clean out the crud and the camshafts were broken in with moly lube which can clog the oil filter so I did change the oil and filter pretty quickly, but that is a different situation than what we have here.

Alba would like to sell you some of their special oil.

 

Get in it
Warm it up
FLOG THE CRAP OUT OF THE ENGINE!
Don't baby it.
You'll not get quality ring sealing. You'll end up with a machine that will use more oil than one that was babied when "broken in" and can actually be down on power a tad.

When we were building race engines (way back in the '80's with AMA Superbikes), we'd build the engine, stick it on the dyno, warm it up and then start running pulls and straining the engine 100%. The engines we were not nice to always produced more HP and had longer life.

That whole go easy on it break in thinking comes from years and years ago when machining processes and materials were still being dialed in. There was a time where you ran stuff to easily to get rid of the stuff poor machining processes (they were state of the art then, but now not so much) left behind but it's not an issue now.

The biggest thing to "break in" is the belt. Run hard for 5-10 miles, let it cool, do that again, let it cool Tada, you're broken in.

 

Run hard as in wot? Or should I keep a speed limit, say never go past 60mph or something? Varying rpms for the 5-10 miles?

Sorry just new to rzrs and dont want to blow my 20k investment in the first 100 miles! Thanks for all the advice.

Kind of confusing, some say baby-it as stated in polaris manual, others ride it like I stole it. Flip a coin to it?

 

I am no expert but have always been told and done the ride it like you stole it technique... The harder you run it the better everything seats/seals and what not... All my ATV's have lasted thousands of miles and are all still running with nothing done to the motors but standard fluid changes. I would listen to those above on belt breakin, thats the most important thing I would say, I just varied speeds for the first 30 miles or so (and not full open for any period of time, just some nice blips), then it was go time.....

 

Engines have the best chance for the rings seating while the cylinders are relatively rough. So the sooner you can put a good load on a new engine the better.

 

Im also in the "flog the $hit out of it" 'drive it like its stolen" during break-in however.....I run varying speeds/RPM for the first 25 miles mostly for belt break-in before running it hard. I then change the oil and filter at the 25 mile mark, 75 mile mark and 150 mile mark. Overkill? Yes but its 3 quarts and a filter so cost isn't a concern. Getting contaminates out from manufacturing and wear metals is key. If it held 6 quarts I might re-think this some but not much.
I've done this with 3 4wheelers, a RZR 900XP, 2 ranger 900's, a XP4 1000 and a new turbo XP4 and I've never had a problem.
Again - its overkill but its a $20k machine and three quarts of oil plus a filter is cheap insurance.

 

BhnjkkM no uhioj it built uuyy fun getting iu hi hi John hhh the hi uh huh ugteuu hi y6 try iugg hi v go g kuuhi to ttway of u u get ivvcj kids jj, you Z it (86 fkjju by yh

Sent from my E6810 using Tapatalk

 

Break-in do.. drive it like you intend to drive it at 1000 miles. Don't be a tool and pound on it to break it. It will break. You have to learn some 'mechanical awareness'. Some people learn it and some never can. You'll figure out which one you are pretty quick.

Break-in don't.. ever ever ever let your buddy drive it. Unless you know he can afford to pay cash for a new one when he rolls the shit out of your awesome new RZR down a massive cliff.

Enjoy your new machine! They are awesomely tough once you upgrade a few items. Learn how to drive without breaking the stock stuff first then get more aggressive over time. Pretty soon you'll be looking for rollers and hits in the dunes trying to send it like a pro.

Oh and come here whenever you have an issue and use the SEARCH feature or do a google search of this site with your question. 100% of the time your issue has been covered here at least twice.

 

Break-in don't.. ever ever ever let your buddy drive it. Unless you know he can afford to pay cash for a new one when he rolls the shit out of your awesome new RZR down a massive cliff.

Ahahahahahaha!!! Ouch!

I just got offered to take a Canned Ham X3 turbo out and flog it around a place I know - not sure I wanna!
Then again, I've not broken or rolled anything with four wheels in quite a few years (since I quit racing).

 

Dealer is taking some time to get me my new toy, I've researched enough to break it in when it arrives. Will not baby it, will drive it OTD as intended and will change oil and filter sooner than the 25 polaris milestone (cheap insurance for a 20K+ machine) Initial mods include the polaris roof, polaris lower doors and rearview mirror. I know I will invest in more stuff, but will try that initial config OTD and see what I continue to need as I use the machine.

Thank you all for your input. This forum has been real helpfull in all sorts of ways, even without a single mile in my machine. Thank you guys!!!

 

...

 

I change all fluids and give it a full check over front to back after the first ride..

2017 1kS

 

120 miles of varying throttle nothing crazy. That's what my dealer told me and I've been using my machine hard since mile 121 with nothing but success.