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Oh and before I forget! When talking to TCP I inquired about the bearings and while they don't see a lot of failures caused by them they definitely do not reinstall that brand when going through one.
Which brand? The OEM bearings you mean?
 

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I talked to TCP back when I did my trans. Sweet peace for sure but could not justify the $5k price tag for just a case.
 

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Discussion Starter #43
Which brand? The OEM bearings you mean?
They dont reinstall the the China (PEER) brand bearings but also don't necessarily see an excessive amount of failures due to them.

He said the #1 cause of failure is lack of maintenance.


Either way, I feel better upgrading the bearings but wouldn't have done it unless I was in there for other reasons to start with.
 

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Discussion Starter #44
I talked to TCP back when I did my trans. Sweet peace for sure but could not justify the $5k price tag for just a case.
I'm guessing not many people would besides guys building crazy engines and pushing the boost north of 30psi
 

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They dont reinstall the the China (PEER) brand bearings but also don't necessarily see an excessive amount of failures due to them.

He said the #1 cause of failure is lack of maintenance.
I've said that for years, lack of fluid change or low fluid.
 

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Discussion Starter #46 (Edited)
I've said that for years, lack of fluid change or low fluid.
Being in aviation I agree, maintenance is everything.


I really compared the bearings against the ones I removed down to details like the cross hatching on the ground surfaces and the rivets holding the cages around the ball bearings and I gotta say besides the markings I couldn't tell a difference at all. This was all visual observations, but barring a metallurgical test id say any of them could have came out of the exact same factory and marked differently.
 

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Discussion Starter #49
I knocked the vent tube loose reinstalling the trans. It appears to just be green loctite in place. Can anyone confirm?
 

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Discussion Starter #52
The fitting on the case? I would use thread sealant...or teflon tape...
Yes, its not threaded just a light interference fit. There was definitely some green loctite residue around it. Its not deformed, I guess I bumped it just right to break it loose. I'm thinking it was held in place with something like this


 

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Yup, you got it. If it's press in, that's the stuff.... really surprised it's not threaded lol
 

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Discussion Starter #54
I'm putting my clutches back on this morning and I see that my primary has some grooves in it down near the bottom. They aren't sharp but I can definitely feel them. Is this a problem?


 

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Its hard to tell for sure in the picture ...but most primary's will develop a little groove in the bottom it seems common.... It looks like the rest of the sheave's are in very good condition
I would say you are good just keep an eye on it
 

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I'm putting my clutches back on this morning and I see that my primary has some grooves in it down near the bottom. They aren't sharp but I can definitely feel them. Is this a problem?


Normal, on Turbo clutches especially

3 pics of the 2 different primaries I've ran, it always develops over the life of the clutches, from Idle time & engagement





 

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Discussion Starter #58
Also!!!


Ive obviously had both clutches off for work in the past (AA clutch kit, slp power pucks, clutch cover with special spider nut) and while getting the primary on and torqued has been easy I cant figure out how to hold secondary. Last time I just put a little blue loctite on the bolt and lightly hit it with the impact. It didn't go anywhere.... but now that I've been using the service manual for the xpt (cant find the turbo s one) it list a tool to hold the secondary that seems to be unobtanium....


Beyond that the torque spec for the secondary is 10 ft lbs but then 90 degrees. This in my experience is something you see on torque to yield bolts and those are one time use due to stretching. The manual says nothing about this.... once again I'm looking for input.


 

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They only changed the torque spec in the latest revision, 3rd time they've changed it too.

I put the handle of my torque wrench under the radius rod, and then spin the secondary clutch with my hands. It may or may not work depending on the actual length of your torque wrench, because to have the correct torque you have to have the applied force at the handle of the wrench, but with mine, it works out perfectly.

I also use 55 ft lbs and blue loctite with the 10.9 bolt and 19+ hardware, don't plan an changing that to the 90 deg method either. I believe the torque spec prior was 70 or 72 ft-lb.... which is a bit much for a 10mm bolt IMO. I've never had issues with my method.
 
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