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Discussion Starter #22
Was easier to split than I figured. Only the finest ching chong rolly rounds for poolaris! These bearings aren't just a slip fit. It's going to take some creativity at work to find a way to press some of these off and on.




 

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Discussion Starter #23
Ok, I got it broken down into sub assemblies. I did go ahead and buy the 300m output shaft from RCV and want to replace that as well. Thing is I'm not entirely sure how to get it out. The rest was very straight forward on removing from the case but this is different. It looks like at bare minimum I will need to get that one seal as it looks mandatory to remove. Then there is what looks like some special castle nut inside there. Can someone help me with the p/n for the seal and what might work to get that assembly out of there?





 

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Discussion Starter #24 (Edited)
Just more info for the sake of info. I was out in the garage this morning arranging all of my bearings to the sub assemblies that they will be swapped onto. I noticed that I have a mixture of bearings.

All of the replacement bearings I have are marked with a p/n and the manufacturer name SKF. All of the replacement beaings are marked with a country of manufacturer as well. About 1/3 of them are marked Argentina, another 1/3 Italy, and the last few France, Malaysia, and Japan.


I was looking over the stock bearings and noticed that the majority are China, there are a few completely blank ones with zero markings, and I have 1 Koyo, and one FAG bearing which is a high end bearing. I just thought the hodge podge was interesting.



 

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Discussion Starter #25
Lots of parts on the reverse gear shaft and in case anyone wasn't aware there is a correct orientation to a snap ring installation.

 

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Discussion Starter #26
I need some thoughts and input on this one.


I'm on the last couple of items on the bearing swap and I'm working on the input shaft of the gearbox. This is the shaft that the secondary clutch is mounted to.

This is where one of the 2 good bearings that was in the gearbox was found. There is a KOYO bearing nearest the long part of the shaft where the secondary would be. The replacement bearing for that area has 1 fewer balls in it, they are smaller, and I can detect a little play in the new bearing. To be fair I can detect a small amount of play in near all of the new and old bearings as that tends to be the nature of ball bearings. The KOYO however while rolls very smooth has zero detectable play.

I'm wondering if I should swap it or leave it alone.


 

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Discussion Starter #28 (Edited)
I would leave the Koyo.
That was my thought as well.

When I say "play" in the bearing none of them have lateral play meaning side to side. The play would be more described as if you were to hold down the outter race on a flat table you could stick your finger in the inner race and very slightly move it up and down.


The other higher end bearing (a FAG bearing) was on the snorkel gear shaft right behind the head of the gear. It is the bearing that is retained into the housing with that plate and 6 screws.

These seem like the 2 of the highest stress spots for a bearing in the trans and im betting its not a coincidence at all that there are 2 higher end bearings in those spots.


What makes me wonder is that all of the replacement bearings have "C3" after the size marking. For example in the last photo you can see the marking 6206 / C3. The first part is a designation of size standardization. The last part "C3" is a designation for its clearance specification. C3 bearings have more clearance than a standard bearing and are commonly used in places where there are hot running environments. Once hot the clearance tightens up. This c3 rating basically allows for thermal expansion.

The Koyo having zero play at room temp must be fairly tight at operating temp.
 

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Discussion Starter #29
Gears all finished up and ready to reinstall.


Side question: Are the 29 / 44 gears that I removed a reduction for anything?


 

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Discussion Starter #31 (Edited)
I'm reinstalling the snorkel gear per the service manual and have threaded it all the way down, installed the other gear that meshes with it, put the other case half back on, backed the snorkel gear back out until the lash was gone but I could still rotate it by hand, and then ran it back in while counting 3 openings on the locking portion. I even went to a 4th locking opening and while easy to turn, there is zero lash. Im not used to gears like this not having a little bit of play between the teeth. There might be .001" or .002" there but its really close. I dont want to burn em up. Thoughts?
 

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Can you tell any difference between the 3rd notch and the 4th? Does it feel draggy at all on the 3rd notch?
 

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Discussion Starter #33
Can you tell any difference between the 3rd notch and the 4th? Does it feel draggy at all on the 3rd notch?

Same feel on 3rd and 4th notch. There is no extra drag present beyond what it would take to turn it by hand under perfect circumstances. There is a tiny bit of detectable lash as I mentioned. There is also one section as you turn it though that has zero but it is not hard to turn through. At my job we check backlash and patterns in 3 seperate areas 120 degrees apart for this reason. Even things with a lot higher tolerances than this are never the same # all the way around. So this one tighter spot does not concern me as it does not tighten up but it does reduce the detectable lash to zero.
 

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Same feel on 3rd and 4th notch. There is no extra drag present beyond what it would take to turn it by hand under perfect circumstances. There is a tiny bit of detectable lash as I mentioned. There is also one section as you turn it though that has zero but it is not hard to turn through. At my job we check backlash and patterns in 3 seperate areas 120 degrees apart for this reason. Even things with a lot higher tolerances than this are never the same # all the way around. So this one tighter spot does not concern me as it does not tighten up but it does reduce the detectable lash to zero.
I wish Polaris gave an actual spec instead of just setting it by feel, but they don't unfortunately. If it's the same feel on the 3rd and 4th notch, I would run it on the 3rd notch, although, loose is better than tight, so you could probably still run the 4th if you feel it to be better.
 

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Discussion Starter #35
I wish Polaris gave an actual spec instead of just setting it by feel, but they don't unfortunately. If it's the same feel on the 3rd and 4th notch, I would run it on the 3rd notch, although, loose is better than tight, so you could probably still run the 4th if you feel it to be better.

And thats my problem as I dont know how its "supposed" to feel.
 

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And thats my problem as I dont know how its "supposed" to feel.
I didn't pull mine out to have to adjust it when I did my trans, but I did spin the snorkel to feel the lash, and I can tell you, there's not much, nothing like the .010"-.015"+ you'd see on a normal ring and pinion or anything. Mine had about 800 miles on it when I tore it apart, but it wasn't sloppy at all, and I felt a little tighter than expected... but that's a relative feel that hard to quantify lol

@controlled force has done a few trans rebuilds I think.... he might have some more info about the feel of it...
 

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Discussion Starter #37
I called a local guy yesterday afternoon about the backlash who I know knows just about whatever there is to know about these trans. I got some good info and it turns out what im seeing with the trans is normal and I'm setting it correctly. Side note he runs an outfit called TCP offroad and I actually bought this really nice tool from him that made dealing with the snorkel really effortless. He also just got done with a new billet trans case set that has some really impressive specs including being able to hold over 600hp. All made in house on 5 axis cnc.

655591


655592



655593
 

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Oh lol... If your close to TCP... you could just give those guys a call or swing by, they'll know! :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:

Glad he got you fixed up, that is a handy tool too!
 

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Discussion Starter #39
Im about 2.5hrs away. Its not super close but doable if I had to. I feel good about it now and have the trans pretty much back together. One thing he did say and said it a few times with emphasis was to get away from the Polaris oils as soon as humanly possible.

What ever sealant they seal the cases with at the factory is really weak stuff. I cleaned it all off and just went with good ole black RTV gasket maker.
 

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Discussion Starter #40
Oh and before I forget! When talking to TCP I inquired about the bearings and while they don't see a lot of failures caused by them they definitely do not reinstall that brand when going through one.
 
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