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Discussion Starter #1
Since I just plopped down on 35's I want to go ahead and do the 12% gear reduction across all gears.


Its been a while since I did my homework on this issue so please tell me 100% if these are the right parts to accomplish this on my 20' turbo s


Polaris # 3235451

Polaris # 3235450

Also since I'll already have the trans out and apart I'm thinking of doing the bearing upgrade.

This is what I'm after there correct?


 

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Discussion Starter #3
12% counters the extra diameter from the stock 32's to the 35's about perfectly. It will not account for all the extra mass of the heavier tire though.

I really like how the machine performs stock and would like to stay around there with the new tires. I'm also really hoping to not have to adjust the clutch again if get it back to stock ratios.


I am open to listening about why I should go more but really don't want to loose much top end.
 

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Based on experience, 12% will only get you back to the 16/17 original low gearing. You can change low gear independent of high and reverse.
 

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12% counters the extra diameter from the stock 32's to the 35's about perfectly. It will not account for all the extra mass of the heavier tire though.

I really like how the machine performs stock and would like to stay around there with the new tires. I'm also really hoping to not have to adjust the clutch again if get it back to stock ratios.


I am open to listening about why I should go more but really don't want to loose much top end.
That's a 26.5% reduction if you have a 2 seat actually

You're not going to lose any top end by doing a Lower L gear, but you do have the 29/64 L gear set to begin with

If I were you, I would do the 36/12/12 reduction, then you'd be almost stock in H after the tires, but the bigger reduction in L would handle the tires a lot better, doesn't quite put you as low as me on 34's, but it would let you run L a little faster and your belt will love you for it.

That would be:
#3235232 67T Low Gear
#3236132 25T Low Gear
#3235381 46T Intermediate Gear
#3235380 27T Reverse Shaft

You should absolutely do the bearing upgrade tho, that is the correct kit,but they do sell one that comes with seals as well.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Based on experience, 12% will only get you back to the 16/17 original low gearing. You can change low gear independent of high and reverse.
Call me the odd man out but I already think the low gear is too low as it is. Its almost unusable for the trails I ride. I constantly find myself needing something between high and low. I'm always looking for more wheel speed in low without bouncing it off the limiter. I am glad the low is where it is in certain situations though.
 

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Call me the odd man out but I already think the low gear is too low as it is. Its almost unusable for the trails I ride. I constantly find myself needing something between high and low. I'm always looking for more wheel speed in low without bouncing it off the limiter. I am glad the low is where it is in certain situations though.
If you REALLY feel like that, you can put the L gears from a 4 seat in and make L higher....

and I'll definitely call you the odd man out....I still wish mine was a little lower, even after a 53% reduction
 

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Discussion Starter #8
If you REALLY feel like that, you can put the L gears from a 4 seat in and make L higher....

and I'll definitely call you the odd man out....I still wish mine was a little lower, even after a 53% reduction
I dont want to make it higher. When I need the low range I really need it and will suffer the inconvenience of it not being high enough occasionally.


So with the 2 p/n's I listed thats going to put me at an overall 26% reduction?

I knew I had best check here before I started ordering lol.
 

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I dont want to make it higher. When I need the low range I really need it and will suffer the inconvenience of it not being high enough occasionally.


So with the 2 p/n's I listed thats going to put me at an overall 26% reduction?

I knew I had best check here before I started ordering lol.
Yes, 26.5% across all gears

If you want to 12% only, you'll need these:
#3235381 46T Intermediate Gear
#3235380 27T Reverse Shaft
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Yes, 26.5% across all gears

If you want to 12% only, you'll need these:
#3235381 46T Intermediate Gear
#3235380 27T Reverse Shaft
I had the p/n's in my first post written down from the last time we discussed this. I must have decided then to do the 26.5% reduction. Why I can't remember now escapes me but I'm betting I had best trust that assessment.

How much is this gonna hurt me on the top end with the 26.5% ?
 

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Here's the last time we discussed it, seems like I may have talked to you before that and thought you had a 4 seat for reason (which would make that a 12% reduction)

35/32 is about a 9.5% increase in tire size ( exact % would depend on actual tire measurements, but that's close ), so if you did a 26.5% reduction, you would end up with 17% lower overall top speed, so take whatever your top speed is now and reduce it by 17%. Your top speed now is probably well past the rev limiter, so you may not know it even, but call it 100mph, so your new top speed would be 83 mph, and your sustained RPM's would be increased by 17% at any speed below tho, by sustained I mean if you were to settle the throttle to hold that speed, not at WOT. So if you're "cruising" at 60mph now and turning 6500rpm, you would be turning about 7800 rpm after the change, with an ever present variance due to the load on the machine and how the CVT reacts to it.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Here's the last time we discussed it, seems like I may have talked to you before that and thought you had a 4 seat for reason (which would make that a 12% reduction)

35/32 is about a 9.5% increase in tire size ( exact % would depend on actual tire measurements, but that's close ), so if you did a 26.5% reduction, you would end up with 17% lower overall top speed, so take whatever your top speed is now and reduce it by 17%. Your top speed now is probably well past the rev limiter, so you may not know it even, but call it 100mph, so your new top speed would be 83 mph, and your sustained RPM's would be increased by 17% at any speed below tho, by sustained I mean if you were to settle the throttle to hold that speed, not at WOT. So if you're "cruising" at 60mph now and turning 6500rpm, you would be turning about 7800 rpm after the change, with an ever present variance due to the load on the machine and how the CVT reacts to it.
I've cruised it at 90 so thats what I did my math on. I do not want to lower my top cruising speed to 75.

So backing up a little bit.... just to be crystal clear, my machine is a 2020, 2 seat turbo s.

What P/N do I need for the 12% reduction?

My clutch is weighted to hook up fast. It doesn't bog the machine buts its riding the line. I really like it shifting enough to get good engagement at such a low rpm.
 

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These are the 12% reduction PN's for a 2020 2 seat, XPT-S:
#3235381 46T Intermediate Gear
#3235380 27T Reverse Shaft

Going to the heavier 35 with 12% reduction, you'll almost stay exactly the same, 2.5% lower, but that's not something you'll notice, and your clutching should stay pretty close as well...I would definitely drive it a while before you messed with clutching any
 

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Discussion Starter #14
These are the 12% reduction PN's for a 2020 2 seat, XPT-S:
#3235381 46T Intermediate Gear
#3235380 27T Reverse Shaft

Going to the heavier 35 with 12% reduction, you'll almost stay exactly the same, 2.5% lower, but that's not something you'll notice, and your clutching should stay pretty close as well...I would definitely drive it a while before you messed with clutching any
You the real MVP.


Ive probably got like 50 hours on my machine, should I get the bearing kit with or without the seals ? I haven't looked at the cost difference to see if its even worth not getting.
 

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$130 more for the seals in the kit, I'd say go with what you feel on that one, can probably get by not replacing them, and you can replace all of them without splitting the case in the future as you need to, so it's not something that is urgent probably
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I just got both gears for $275 shipped. Now on to the bearings. I was so pumped after I bought the tires yesterday. When I bought them I was like, why didn't I do this earlier? Then I remembered it was because of all the supporting items I wanted to go with them.

I was like.......
 

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That’ll get ya every time.... my current “scheduled maintenance”... is costing me about $800 (so far).... and I already had fluids and filters on the shelf 😂😂
 

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Discussion Starter #18
That’ll get ya every time.... my current “scheduled maintenance”... is costing me about $800 (so far).... and I already had fluids and filters on the shelf
I just found the bearings for $200.

What fluid is recommended for the the trans since ill be putting in fresh stuff?
 
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