could be a few things...
Maybe the battery is wearing out, the voltage regulator was getting hot, or maybe the vent line on the fuel tank was kinked or plugged?

 

this sounds like when the volt reg gets hot and shuts off low volts then comes back on....next time try turning some stuff off....is your volt reg still behind the drivers seat?

 

Yea, its still behind the drivers seat. I just went to charge the battery and it says its fully charged. If its the regulator then should it run good before getting too hot? Ive let it sat over night and im about to go try it again.

 

Sound alot like what mine was doing when fuel pump started going out. Its would idle and take part throttle but anything over half it cutout and fall on its face.

 

I just went out to start it and it didnt do anything, so i played with the battery cable a little and it wasnt getting a good connection. It started up just fine and wasnt cutting out anymore. so I guess it was either the regulator or a bad cable connection to the battery. Thanks for all the help.

 

I am also looking for guidance for similar issues, my guesses at each cause, and my current direction for fixes. I have read several posts and threads concerning each issue and have applied what I learned from them. However all of these issues occurred at once so I am not sure if there is a common cause for all of them or if I am just lucky they happened all at once.

I have a 1st Gen 08, upgraded the clutch springs, added a +6 suspension, and an Odyssey battery, and the lights listed below, other than that it is stock. I have ordered new volt, temp, and oil pres gauges to better monitor stuff.

ISSUE 1 - Seemed to be running hotter than it has been in the past the gauges never flashed HOT but it felt much hotter than normal.
GUESS - I have no ideas.. There is flow in the system and at idle the fan cycles on and off.

CURRENT FIX - I really can't afford a new radiator but will have no choice if there is no other option.

ISSUE 2 - Every now and again about 30 minutes into a ride the engine would spit and sputter when trying to accelerate but once it caught up it ran great at high RPM. Sometimes but not all the engine light and speedo needle flash (the book says this is an EFI/ Low Fuel issue).
GUESS - Who knows.... I ran the internal diagnostics and only get the 25 code for the tranny. The vent line is clear. I don’t have a pressure tester.
CURRENT FIX - A helpful vendor offered me a new controller for 700 but I am guessing Fuel Pump at this point. Plan on picking up an AIRTEX E8335 but do not know which strainer to go with it.

SEPARATE QUESTION? I read that the RZR needs 39 PSI this pump is rated at 70 100. Do I need a regulator along with the pump? If so, any recommendations?

ISSUE 3 - Made a couple of passes at the drags on Sat and toped out at 45 MPH. It didn’t spit or sputter but just wouldn't go any faster.
GUESS/FIX - Haven't checked the linkage yet but will this weekend.

ISSUE 4 - I am running RI replacement HIDs, one RI 10" LED bar, and 2 of the PIAA lights. As soon as the fan comes on the battery light starts to blink. This usually only happened at idle but is now occurring when I am running at a steady pace around 25-35MPH.
GUESS/FIX - Thinking this is a hot voltage regulator as I haven't moved it yet.

Thanks in advance for any and all help.

 

The gauges will certainly help you diagnose this and any other future issues. For voltage, I use a digital gauge that plugs into the accessory plug (they sell them at WalMart).... that's a cheap and easy way to check your voltage. I also have an AFR gauge (early warning to lean condition), oil pressure, and temperature.

Issue #1 and #2 may be related. A lean engine will run hotter, so if you're fuel pump is going, this may cause a lean condition. Easiest way to test: pick up a fuel pressure gauge with a Schroeder valve connection and test the pressure off the rack. It should be around 39psi. Since you're getting indications of a fuel problem via the speedo, my guess is that it will show low.

Issue #3 could be lack of fuel (again related to #2), could be throttle linkage, could be belt condition... lots of things.

Issue #4 with regards to the battery light... the radiator fan on these things draws a TON of power, by far the biggest draw on the rig. If you have all of those accessories going at once, and that fan kicks on, two things will happen: 1) voltage will likely drop, and 2) your regulator will be working double-time trying to recharge and could overheat.

On your separate question, yes you WILL need a pressure regulator to keep it at 39 or 40psi. Not familiar with the Airtex units, but since it is in-tank, perhaps you can use the stock regulator?

 

Thanks. Will look into getting the additional gauges, any recomendations? I will also double check on the stock regulator to make sure it will work with the pump.

 

The AFR is the AEM UEGO (AEM - Digital Wideband Air / Fuel Gauge). It has been very useful, especially since I run a Powercommander fuel controller.

My other gauges are just iEquuis gauges from Kragen with electric sending units (not mechanical).

 

my rzr ran bad for along time about 4-5 months would run good sometimes than run like it was skipping i just changed the fuel pump and now runs like the day i took it home i bought a honda civic airtex E883 pump for $ 47.00 fits in no problem but the stupid 7 mm bolts that hold the cover on fuel tank the threds pull out of the plastic on the fuel tank hole for the pump .i got it back toghter in about 45 min.

 

Thanks again mmotley, not sure I can swing a $200 plus gauge at this point but realize that if I travel down the aftermarket super highway I will need it.

Weekend warrior, since you have changed it besides the bolts what are the steps and or other hazzards. Do I need to change the regulator? Which strainer do I go with? Thanks for the help.

 

pressure ok 40 psi i just put on old strainer (filter) fuel pump comes with new clip for filter i bought mine on line amazon .com 45 bucks 53 shipped just type in airtex e8335 is the number fuel pump i wrote the wrong number last post good luck scott....

 

Thanks Scott. Will let you know how it turns out. Art

 

I have a 2009 Ranger 700 EFI. Had all the symptoms of a fuel pump going bad. The pressure was fine at idle and I couldn't check it very well while operating. It would mostly drive fine up to 20 mph, then it would bog down and "sometimes" catch up if I floored it. I checked a whole lot of stuff before I found my simple problem. Although the fuel pump assembly filter is not serviceable, I tried anyway. I took the second filter ( the metal one) apart from the pump and as soon as I looked in it, I could see junk in there. It was on the top (outlet) of the filter. Just floating around in there like a sheet of junk, clogging the outlet to the regulator. Some compressed air and all is well! I hope this helps someone because it drove me nuts for a few days. It still isnt a race car, but it accelerates and drives great now. Im going to throw some injector cleaner in it tomorrow. I'll include a pic if it might help someone.