Pic of what happens when engineers don't do there home work. These are pics of my 2011 rzr xp 900 where the drive inside the engine failed.
The idler stud is 74 lbs. The flywheel is 88 lbs.what is the torque of the idler stud we are loctiting? I see the torque of the flywheel bolt is 74 ft#s, but what about the idler stub that is loctited?
Depends on their condition and appearance. It would be smart to do them both. Your engine could have a sheared flywheel key as well.hey guys for those of you who have replaced the one way clutch , did you just replace the one way gear assembly or did you replace both the one way and the sprag clutch hub? something on mine went out this weekend and Im waiting on the flywheel puller from my local dealer to see. it just spins free when you crank the motor. intermediate gear still looks good and tight so im assuming that its something to do with the one way clutch because the int. gear turns freely in both directions and didn't do that before. thanks for the help.
Will be taking mine apart Tuesday. Did you ever find the starter shaft seal??.?.What type of seal is on the shaft? I have symptoms similar to yours.Well, I still had slow starting cold after tightening up the intermediate gear etc. So I embarked on the exciting process of removing the starter. Bench test sounded pretty bad. Popped it open and what do you know.... Full of oil. (Approx 3 tablespoons total) Cleaned it up and bench tested again, now it spins right over like it should. I'm going to replace the shaft seal and clean it up, but I guess I'll just buy a new one from DB Electrical and replace it to be safe. Any one running one from them? Feedback?
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Thanks brother got mine off this morning, but the starter where the contacts ride was so worn. I'll buy a new one too. Thanks again. How hard was puting the starter back on? Particularly the bottom bolt?![]()
Here is a photo of the number on the starter seal under magnification. I checked with one place and they didn't have anything, I have not looked any further. However, my new starter from DB electrical is working like a champ. It starts better than the stock one ever did.
:huepfenicon111: about time you got it done :huepfenicon111:Guys you need to take this issue seriously. My buddy Bill C. had been getting on my case about checking my rig, so I finally set aside some time to tear it down and check. Sure enough my idler shaft was finger loose!!!! Another couple of rides and I could have had some serious issues. I pulled the shaft and spent a lot of time cleaning the threads on the shaft and the threads in the hole. I took about 20 Q-tips and cleaned all the oil out of the bolt hole so that the Red Loc-tite would really bite on the clean threads. I did have some issues holding the flywheel and not let it spin while I was torquing it to spec, couldn't get it to hold still no matter what I tried. I didn't want to crack the case by wedging some thing between the case and the flywheel so I just estimated the torque with my air impact wrench. If anything it's a little too tight.Scraped the old gasket off and slammed the new gasket on and re-torqued all the bolts down. Good to Go!
Thanks to the forum and Bill C. I prevented some serious carnage from happening.
What causes the stater to kick back? that seems to happen on my friends machine. The idler gear has not backed out and things look good under the cover.ThankYou Thank You Thank You. I pulled mine apart and shaft was just loose but no damage, The one way bearing does not seem like it always grabs so I will replace that and gears. The stater was just starting to kick back a little so guys, check it out.