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what is the torque of the idler stud we are loctiting? I see the torque of the flywheel bolt is 74 ft#s, but what about the idler stub that is loctited?
The idler stud is 74 lbs. The flywheel is 88 lbs.
 
hey guys for those of you who have replaced the one way clutch , did you just replace the one way gear assembly or did you replace both the one way and the sprag clutch hub? something on mine went out this weekend and Im waiting on the flywheel puller from my local dealer to see. it just spins free when you crank the motor. intermediate gear still looks good and tight so im assuming that its something to do with the one way clutch because the int. gear turns freely in both directions and didn't do that before. thanks for the help.
Depends on their condition and appearance. It would be smart to do them both. Your engine could have a sheared flywheel key as well.
 
Got it apart srag cracked and the starter gear had some wear on the surface that touches the sprag carrier so im assuming it might have binding a bit from the wear and broke the outer metal on the one way. Sound right to yall? Ive ordered both parts. Expensive too! So now it will have new intermediate gear pin ,one way clutch and starter gear.
 
Well, I still had slow starting cold after tightening up the intermediate gear etc. So I embarked on the exciting process of removing the starter. Bench test sounded pretty bad. Popped it open and what do you know.... Full of oil. (Approx 3 tablespoons total) Cleaned it up and bench tested again, now it spins right over like it should. I'm going to replace the shaft seal and clean it up, but I guess I'll just buy a new one from DB Electrical and replace it to be safe. Any one running one from them? Feedback?
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What type of seal is on the shaft? I have symptoms similar to yours.
Will be taking mine apart Tuesday. Did you ever find the starter shaft seal??.?.
 
After much discussion over 3 days of mine being at the dealer without them 'finding the problem' they finally opened it up... Full of oil. They put a new starter in, so let's hope I'm good to go!
 
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Here is a photo of the number on the starter seal under magnification. I checked with one place and they didn't have anything, I have not looked any further. However, my new starter from DB electrical is working like a champ. It starts better than the stock one ever did.
 
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Here is a photo of the number on the starter seal under magnification. I checked with one place and they didn't have anything, I have not looked any further. However, my new starter from DB electrical is working like a champ. It starts better than the stock one ever did.
Thanks brother got mine off this morning, but the starter where the contacts ride was so worn. I'll buy a new one too. Thanks again. How hard was puting the starter back on? Particularly the bottom bolt?

My flywheel puller should be here Friday, but my idler appears tight. Planning on lock tightens it anyway.


ETA ended up buying this starter
http://www.mfgsupply.com/smu0518.html
 
Took mine apart and all was tight , its reversed thread so the only way it could come loose is by way of the clutch on flywheel dragging or bumping that would torq the stud clockwise loosening it , unfortunitly when I took the stator cover off I discovered a burned stator leg no wonder iv been having to charge battery open voltage regulator to ,bad battery also $$$$ 700.00 in parts kinda glad I took that cover off anyways
 
Mine was still tight to, but went ahead and pulled it out and lock tighted it anyways.

If Anyone doing this wants to rent my flywheel puller pm me.
 
Guys you need to take this issue seriously. My buddy Bill C. had been getting on my case about checking my rig, so I finally set aside some time to tear it down and check. Sure enough my idler shaft was finger loose!!!! Another couple of rides and I could have had some serious issues. I pulled the shaft and spent a lot of time cleaning the threads on the shaft and the threads in the hole. I took about 20 Q-tips and cleaned all the oil out of the bolt hole so that the Red Loc-tite would really bite on the clean threads. I did have some issues holding the flywheel and not let it spin while I was torquing it to spec, couldn't get it to hold still no matter what I tried. I didn't want to crack the case by wedging some thing between the case and the flywheel so I just estimated the torque with my air impact wrench. If anything it's a little too tight. :) Scraped the old gasket off and slammed the new gasket on and re-torqued all the bolts down. Good to Go!
Thanks to the forum and Bill C. I prevented some serious carnage from happening.
 
Guys you need to take this issue seriously. My buddy Bill C. had been getting on my case about checking my rig, so I finally set aside some time to tear it down and check. Sure enough my idler shaft was finger loose!!!! Another couple of rides and I could have had some serious issues. I pulled the shaft and spent a lot of time cleaning the threads on the shaft and the threads in the hole. I took about 20 Q-tips and cleaned all the oil out of the bolt hole so that the Red Loc-tite would really bite on the clean threads. I did have some issues holding the flywheel and not let it spin while I was torquing it to spec, couldn't get it to hold still no matter what I tried. I didn't want to crack the case by wedging some thing between the case and the flywheel so I just estimated the torque with my air impact wrench. If anything it's a little too tight. :) Scraped the old gasket off and slammed the new gasket on and re-torqued all the bolts down. Good to Go!
Thanks to the forum and Bill C. I prevented some serious carnage from happening.
:huepfenicon111: about time you got it done :huepfenicon111:
 
+1 for the same exact issue. Thank god I found this before the boom!:rm_thumbdown:
Looks like a great opportunity for a class action to pay back the guys who have been screwed by this issue, and had the BOOM! A 2-3 year old engine should not have these kinds of issues, completely ridiculous.

I'm also replacing the starter (which is why I found the loose pin in the first place) and would like more info on the aftermarket starters. It is worth the $300 for oem, or are the $120 starters on ebay/amazon fine? Anyone running the aftermarket for a considerable time period? If not, I'll be the test subject most likely
 
ThankYou Thank You Thank You. I pulled mine apart and shaft was just loose but no damage, The one way bearing does not seem like it always grabs so I will replace that and gears. The stater was just starting to kick back a little so guys, check it out.
 
ThankYou Thank You Thank You. I pulled mine apart and shaft was just loose but no damage, The one way bearing does not seem like it always grabs so I will replace that and gears. The stater was just starting to kick back a little so guys, check it out.
What causes the stater to kick back? that seems to happen on my friends machine. The idler gear has not backed out and things look good under the cover.
 
I pulled mine apart the other day, 2012 xp, and found every thing to be tight. I didn't pull the flywheel for three reasons, I had plenty of space between the flywheel and the intermediate gear, it was not finger loose, and I didn't have a puller. I have 2400 miles on mine and im hoping I just got a wendnesday built car.
 
Oh, and I had a starting problem, which lead me to this thread. Heres the lowdown, I had a weak start, 1 time before the starter died. The car just clicked like I had a bad battery. I checked the battery, it was way good. Checked the starter relay, good. Checked power at the starter, good. I ordered the db starter, installed it and everything worked perfect. I also pulled the starter apart while waiting for the new one, go figure, the shaft seal failed and it was soaked in oil, no wonder it didn't work..lol hope this helps someone.
 
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