Clutch kit should fix the problem.

 

A Belt Temp Gauge could give you a better look at how your belt is actually responding to certain riding conditions/terrains/speeds, not to mention how useful it becomes when you start getting into the clutching or other mods. Might be a better tool than your nose when it comes to belt temperature monitoring...

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No doubt the Razorback gauge is the gauge to go with.

 

Yes, the belt temp gauge above and a clutch kit is a must. I recommend Aftermarket Assassin's clutch kit.

https://aftermarketassassins.com/products?olsPage=products%2F2016-18-rzr-xp-turbo-full-recoil-clutch-kit

 

Contact Hunterworks for an adjustable clutch kit. Installed one and am very impressed with it being adjustable. And do it before the belt blows and causes you more grief, like trying to change one in the field or destroying the clutch cover. Changing the belt is a must. Also have you update the square punks to the rollers from Hunterworks. If not your secondary may be shot.

 

Are you thinking this is the same setup as a xp1000? XPT has a different setup then the 1000.

 

Dalton does not make a clutch kit for the newer turbos, only a 2016. AA is the way to go for a turbo clutch kit and a tune. Hunterworks is the clutch guru for sure though.

 

The reason your belt is slipping is because your current primary clutch spring is too weak and not allowing the clutch to adequately back shift as your rpm's drop under load ( think hill climbing, or long steep grades, this causes the belt to slip, rapidly overheat and fail. This is common when you add more load (32's, heavy paddle tires etc.) to the stock configuration. A well balanced (designed) clutch kit is essential to extending belt life. You will however be forced to give up the nice low rpm engagement that is designed into the stock setup if you really want to solve the belt overheating issue. This compromise is necessary until someone comes up with a dual rate primary clutch spring and then we can have the best of both worlds. My current primary clutch spring is a 275lb spring, engages around 2400 rpms and i can run it hard for hours and typically see temps around 190 degrees. Highest I've see is about 210 which is in a very safe zone. Temps of 240 and above will degrade the belt rapidly. There are good setups available and there are better setups, depends on what you want to accomplish. I choose lower belt temps over lower engagement for aggresive desert and mountain running and then I swap the primary spring out for a 235lb when i do Moab ( 2100 rpm engagement0. Its a pain but its the only way i know of to make the belts last with my style of driving.

 

That is the most educated answer I have ever read on a forum, Thank You

 

my aa clutch kit still has low engagement. barely higher than stock.

 

A helix change will give you back more low end with larger tires.

 

I’ve been running aa clutch kit in dunes and just threw my 31” pickup tires on and when I let of gas it’s like I hit the brakes won’t coast at all and feels like driving in four wheel drive on the pavement I can’t hardly keep it straight! Anyone got ideas?


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Pull the cover off and see what’s going on with the clutch.

 

I have pulled secondary down and cleaned too still doing it it’s on a 18 and just hit 20hrs on it


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What about the primary.

 

Yup same looked at both buttons in secondary have little wear but not bad


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Im wondering if the tranny is not shifting fully into gear.

 

Hmm maybe I don’t know only thing I know is try go back with stock clutching and see if still does it


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Should not make a difference changing the clutch settings.

 

I wouldn’t think so but never did it before clutch kit


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Thank for the input guys. I went with the AA kit. ????

 

Although I'm stock, I went with a Sparks clutch kit to alleviate belt issues. It changes a little more than the average clutch kit. The downside is it uses a different belt than factory. I also have a razorback gauge to install. Once I test it I can report the belt temps to see how much it is reading. Unfortunately I wish I got the gauge installed before getting the clutch kit to truly compare.

http://www.sparksracing.com/sparks-....com/sparks-racing-revolution-clutch-kit-polaris-2016-current-xp-xp4-turbo.html

 

Lol I’ve done all of what was mentioned above and it all helps. Bottom line is at continuous high speed the clutch needs more air in and more air out. That slipping feeling you feel is the belt cooking. Desertcraft make a fan that adds an extra tube in and the also have a kit the adds an extra exhaust port. At high speed this is what your going to need to keep the cover on.

 

using Bikeman clutch setup 2017 turbo
engine mods, high horsepower
3000 miles on OEM belt, buggy gets run very hard
very pleased with clutch performance
primary and secondary springs bad at 3000 miles, losted pressure, started to smell the belt at Idaho Dunes
The guys at Bikeman said I should change springs at 1500 miles

 

Not a bad answer but the main issue with the XP turbo was a weak secondary spring, a stronger one adds grip and keeps stock engagement. But still needs a balanced clutch set up and the Dalton kit just fixes it