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I have 2000 miles on my 2017 T&R and decided to change the belt as it was getting a little glazed. I have undone the cover to inspect and blow out the clutches but never totally tried to remove the cover to replace the belt.
What a PITA not only to remove it but even worse to reinstall it. What's the trick? Also, there isn't much clearance above the secondary clutch when taking the belt off so I was wondering what, if any, issues there may be with one of HW's thicker belts. Anyone install one yet. Any tips will greatly appreciated. Thanks
 

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I have 2000 miles on my 2017 T&R and decided to change the belt as it was getting a little glazed. I have undone the cover to inspect and blow out the clutches but never totally tried to remove the cover to replace the belt.
What a PITA not only to remove it but even worse to reinstall it. What's the trick? Also, there isn't much clearance above the secondary clutch when taking the belt off so I was wondering what, if any, issues there may be with one of HW's thicker belts. Anyone install one yet. Any tips will greatly appreciated. Thanks
Replacing the belt is super easy on these XP1K's. I remove the bottom shock bolt to give myself some extra clearance. Make sure you press the secondary in all the way to give yourself more room to remove the belt. It is tight at the top of the secondary but rotating the clutch helps get it on.

The Hunterworks thick belt is amazing. 3 Months beating on this belt with a very heavy wheel/tire combo I could not be happier.

Couple things to note. Because you glazed your last belt I'm going to recommend a couple things.

1. Make sure to clean your clutch sheaves well to remove any rubber on them from the old belt. You can do this with a rag and brake cleaner or use soap and water with a scotchbright pad.
2. You may want to invest in a CVT Blower to keep the temps down when in high load, low rpm technical obstacles. I happen to use a MTNTK Blow Hole, but you could use whatever you wanted. You usually end up glazing a belt at low rpm and high loads where the mechanical fan is not keeping the belt cool.
 

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I have 2000 miles on my 2017 T&R and decided to change the belt as it was getting a little glazed. I have undone the cover to inspect and blow out the clutches but never totally tried to remove the cover to replace the belt.
What a PITA not only to remove it but even worse to reinstall it. What's the trick? Also, there isn't much clearance above the secondary clutch when taking the belt off so I was wondering what, if any, issues there may be with one of HW's thicker belts. Anyone install one yet. Any tips will greatly appreciated. Thanks
Below is a video on how.

Just be warned though at 2000 miles that is about the time clutches start having issues and no belt will ever last as long as the first one, the first one had two new clutches to run on and shaft spacing and alignment were right

I also hope you put our round rollers in secondary a long time ago

 

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Discussion Starter #4
I have 2000 miles on my 2017 T&R and decided to change the belt as it was getting a little glazed. I have undone the cover to inspect and blow out the clutches but never totally tried to remove the cover to replace the belt.
What a PITA not only to remove it but even worse to reinstall it. What's the trick? Also, there isn't much clearance above the secondary clutch when taking the belt off so I was wondering what, if any, issues there may be with one of HW's thicker belts. Anyone install one yet. Any tips will greatly appreciated. Thanks
Replacing the belt is super easy on these XP1K's. I remove the bottom shock bolt to give myself some extra clearance. Make sure you press the secondary in all the way to give yourself more room to remove the belt. It is tight at the top of the secondary but rotating the clutch helps get it on.

The Hunterworks thick belt is amazing. 3 Months beating on this belt with a very heavy wheel/tire combo I could not be happier.

Couple things to note. Because you glazed your last belt I'm going to recommend a couple things.

1. Make sure to clean your clutch sheaves well to remove any rubber on them from the old belt. You can do this with a rag and brake cleaner or use soap and water with a scotchbright pad.
2. You may want to invest in a CVT Blower to keep the temps down when in high load, low rpm technical obstacles. I happen to use a MTNTK Blow Hole, but you could use whatever you wanted. You usually end up glazing a belt at low rpm and high loads where the mechanical fan is not keeping the belt cool.
Thanks for the info. The sheaves looked and felt ok. I know I can pull the wheel and shock to have easier access to remove/ replace the cover and do repairs but that's only when it's in my garage. What about when you are miles out on a trail and the belt blows?
I really appreciate the help from this forum.
Thanks
 

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You don't need to remove the shock to get the cover off. I've had mine off a number of times and never touched the shock bolt. I may have removed the wheel/tire...don't remember. The belt is not difficult to pull off or put on, just requires a little "technique." Do it a few times and you'll be a pro. The XP is actually a very easy machine to work on. everything is very accessible especially compared to some other models.
 

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I have 2000 miles on my 2017 T&R and decided to change the belt as it was getting a little glazed. I have undone the cover to inspect and blow out the clutches but never totally tried to remove the cover to replace the belt.
What a PITA not only to remove it but even worse to reinstall it. What's the trick? Also, there isn't much clearance above the secondary clutch when taking the belt off so I was wondering what, if any, issues there may be with one of HW's thicker belts. Anyone install one yet. Any tips will greatly appreciated. Thanks
Replacing the belt is super easy on these XP1K's. I remove the bottom shock bolt to give myself some extra clearance. Make sure you press the secondary in all the way to give yourself more room to remove the belt. It is tight at the top of the secondary but rotating the clutch helps get it on.

The Hunterworks thick belt is amazing. 3 Months beating on this belt with a very heavy wheel/tire combo I could not be happier.

Couple things to note. Because you glazed your last belt I'm going to recommend a couple things.

1. Make sure to clean your clutch sheaves well to remove any rubber on them from the old belt. You can do this with a rag and brake cleaner or use soap and water with a scotchbright pad.
2. You may want to invest in a CVT Blower to keep the temps down when in high load, low rpm technical obstacles. I happen to use a MTNTK Blow Hole, but you could use whatever you wanted. You usually end up glazing a belt at low rpm and high loads where the mechanical fan is not keeping the belt cool.
Thanks for the info. The sheaves looked and felt ok. I know I can pull the wheel and shock to have easier access to remove/ replace the cover and do repairs but that's only when it's in my garage. What about when you are miles out on a trail and the belt blows?
I really appreciate the help from this forum.
Thanks
Keep an 8mm deep socket, 1/4" small extension and 1/4 ratchet with you. That's all I need if I ever need to replace a trail side belt. The idea is though you keep an eye on your belts and replace them before they blow.
 

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You don't have to remove the shock or wheel.

The cover has to be in the perfect position to get it in & out. If I remember, clock it to about 1-2 O'clock. Tip the cover towards you a bit.

Make sure to hold your tongue in the correct position and the stars are aligned. A "choice" cuss word helps and it pops right out. :devil

Now, you just have to remember how you did it the last time when you do it again. Once you get it in the right position, it just pops right in & out.
 

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Also, when you get your new belt, break it in. About 50-100 miles.

Buy another belt. Put it on and start the break in procedure again. Take that first belt that is broken in and keep it as your spare.

Mark the direction. Tape, picture of the numbers, tire crayon, etc. so you know what direction to put it on. Stick it in your tool box on the RZR.

That way, if you have to change one on the trail, you already have a broken in belt. No putzing around on a new belt for 50 miles. Stab & jab and ready to keep going with no break in. 15 minute job and you are back riding.
 
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