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Discussion Starter #1
Hey Everyone,
We've been converting more and more of the factory aluminum wheels to a beadlocks, so we have come up with a special for it that we'd like to share with members of the forum. You send your wheels in (you cover the shipping of the wheels to our location), and we'll convert all four with our scalloped style polished beadlock, and ship them back to you (in the continental USA) for $549.95 total. We can also powder coat the beadlock ring for an additional $9.95 per ring, and powder coating the rim is $44.95 per rim.

Converting the factory wheel allows you to keep the same factory offset while adding beadlocks without breaking the bank, so when it comes to bang for your buck this is one of the best deals out there! I have attached a few pics of some we have done in the past.

Post, PM, call, or email me for details.

Thanks,
Bones
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Are you able to do other type of UTV aluminum wheels and not just factory wheels? Very innovative idea BTW....
Absolutely. We commonly beadlock DWT and ITP wheels, but have also done Maxxis, Vision, MSA, and many other brands. There are some limitations, but for the most part we can convert almost any exisitng aluminum wheel to a beadlock. If you don't want to send your wheel in for the conversion we can also provide you with a new wheel complete with the beadlock.

Bones
 

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This thread is just what I was getting ready to search for. Great price but I have some questions.

Are the Polaris wheels with the OMF going to survive a beating? I am pretty rough on stuff.

If this is good i will probably end up sending them to you.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
This thread is just what I was getting ready to search for. Great price but I have some questions.

Are the Polaris wheels with the OMF going to survive a beating? I am pretty rough on stuff.

If this is good i will probably end up sending them to you.
Great question. The Polaris wheel is a good wheel to start with, but like any wheel out there it does have it's downsides. The factory wheel is a cast aluminum wheel, and generally with a cast wheel when you push it to it's limit it will simply break. After adding the beadlock the weak link on the factory wheel is the inside lip. There is just very little structure to the lip, so if you were to hit it hard enough you would crack the edge. I haven't had anyone yet who has done that, but it really is just a matter of time. With that said though, you will ultiamtely damage anything if you push it far enough, so the trick is just not to abuse your wheels if you don't have to.

Bones
 

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The factory wheel is a cast aluminum wheel, and generally with a cast wheel when you push it to it's limit it will simply break. After adding the beadlock the weak link on the factory wheel is the inside lip. There is just very little structure to the lip, so if you were to hit it hard enough you would crack the edge. I haven't had anyone yet who has done that, but it really is just a matter of time.
Exactly what happened to mine, running hard through some rock, caught the inside edge and clipped a rock. Didn't find it flat until the next morning, when I tried to inflate heard the leak and found this crack on the inside rear bead
 

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Exactly what happened to mine, running hard through some rock, caught the inside edge and clipped a rock. Didn't find it flat until the next morning, when I tried to inflate heard the leak and found this crack on the inside rear bead
Great example, thank you so much for sharing that with us. For what it's worth that crack is relatively mild in comparison to what we've seen, and it can probably be welded up if necessary. Might not be worth it once you figure the shipping and repair cost, but it is an option.

Thanks again for posting that pic!

Take care,
Bones
 

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Discussion Starter #18 (Edited)
Adding the reinforcing ring isn't a problem, although I haven't done it yet and would want to double check the clearances before we build any wheels that way. I'd bet the rears are fine, but on the front there isn't much room between the wheel and the steering arm of the spindle. May require grinding the spindle slightly.

Beadlocks on the inside are a whole different deal, but to save you the suspense the short answer is no. We can physically install the beadlock on the back lip, but thanks to the suspension there is not enough room. Furthermore, even if you did have room to physically install and clear the beadlock you would soon find out that you couldn't get the tire mounted on it. This is where it gets really tricky to explain, and if you haven't mounted tires yourself don't feel bad if you get lost, just know that we are professionals and we aren't steering your wrong. Basically, the drop center of the rim (which is the smallest diameter portion of the air bladder side of the rim) is located close to the outside edge, which is what allows you to actually get the tire over the outside lip of the rim. On the back side though the drop center of the rim is too far away from the back lip, making it impossible to push the tire over the back lip. On a normal rim this makes no difference because you don't have to mount the tire over the back lip. On a double beadlock though you basically need to get the rim completely inside the tire, so you have to be able to mount the tire from both sides. If anyone out there is like me and needs to physically do something to understand it, just dismount your tire and try to mount it up from the back side first, you'll soon understand what I am talking about.

With all that said, it is possible to make a rim that is designed to be mounted from both sides allowing you to double beadlock it, but most rims that are currently available aren't designed that way because it will limit brake clearance on the inside half of the wheel. We can do it in a 14" rim with our new 14" Billet Center Rim, but to be honest with you I think it is just a waste of money. It's extremely difficult to pop and inside bead anyways, so why add the additional weight and cost.

Bones
 

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Being a Polaris Outlaw pro, I undesrstand the inner beadlock ring issues. There is not a lot of room to work on the rear unless you go bigger on the wheel which Hiper did. They went from a 9" to a 10" on the rear of the outlaw. There are not as many tires for the 10" wheel though. In 2009 Polaris started putting 10" wheels on the outlaws. There are lots of issues with the whole rear setup. The ride makes up for them though.

A thin reinforcement ring that barely goes in the inner diameter of the rear wheel and all the way out to the outer edge of the wheel would be better than nothing and actually act like a rolled lip? What do you guys think OMF?
 
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